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The input side is an led the output side is an opto transistor, all you need to check is that 3v is enough to drive the input. Regards rog8811

What voltage? Standard rechargable AA are 1.2v..... If we had been told that it may have changed the diagnosis, do you have a capacitor in the circuit, if so did you short it out before conecting the LD? ...accidently, of course as you posted at the same time as me:whistle: Regards rog8811

opto isolator? (no research done, just throwing it out there) Regards rog8811

I have been out of it for around 4 years now so have no clue what is going on, I still have my reciever collecting dust in a cupboard somewhere but my one meter dish is long gone. I had a good run though, around 5 years of free sat TV..... all I get these days is repeats, and I have to pay for...

Can I suggets you go to the laser driver page of my website, it gives all of the important info on the LM317 driver circuit.... you will then see where I got the number from. That will be because the LM317 is not regulating... because of what I alude to above. It was not the voltage that...

I gave it all up when they changed the encryption method for D2mac and the community could not find the new keys. I miss filmnet and TV1000.:mad: Regards rog8811

If you get it wrong that is over 1amp through the LD without a fixed resistor. This is a constant current driver so the voltage will take care of itself....but.... ...so only 2.5v for the laser diode?.... This thread has a few graphs that may be of help...

That is very impressive FML, my hat's off to you! .....Yet another project I will need to add to my list oif things to build:yabbem: Regards rog8811

It can be done - Low cost yellow pointer ;) regards rog8811

:topic: Nice job FML, I thought I had seen it before but worth another look! Regards rog8811

I saw a thread on another forum which said that in the first 6 months of the > 1mw laser ban, australian customs had intercepted 1800 illegal lasers.... so do youy feel lucky? Regards rog8811

If you look at the second photo you can see the 2 beam exit holes so side by side beams..... A nicer host but more or less the same as the DX version but more expensive. Regards rog8811

Arctic silver do a thermal epoxy glue, google it or search for it here, it has been discussed on the forums. You get the thermal contact and a good strong fixing as well. Regards rog8811

Thankyou Regards rog8811

Looks like I am going to have to modify my "Chauvet abyss" some time soon, that looks far better than what the projector does as standard. Regards rog8811

The only way I could see that being the case is that you are massivly overdriving the LED at the top end, I do not know what LED you are using but I have had them dim as the current rises as they are starting to burn up. The pot to the right, in the drawing is what I assume is close to the one...

Is your meter auto ranging? With that resistor setup you should get a max of 250ma and a min of 41ma, so your numbers come out close just the decimal point seems wrong. Regards rog8811

Are you sure about that? Are they, for instance, designed for in car use and have a built in limiting resistor? I have never used an LED without a resistor as, like laser diodes they are current hungry. I have to say I am no expert on LED's so I am quite prepared to be proven wrong ;) Regards...

I have just got in from work, I am looking....:) EDIT.... I have now looked. You know you will get a voltage drop across the green LED if used as shown? Also ou have not shown a limiting resistor for either of them which will be needed. I would suggest that you take them out of the supply...

Which is exactly what a rangefinder is, it no longer matters that the beam does not come out straight. As there is only a single source the beam direction has only to be set once. If the distance between the beams is too wide in the rangefinder housing you can strip these units for the mirrors...