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I'd recommend a flex drive microboost, or a x-boost. check out dtr's site in the pro shop, or click the bottom links in any one of the threads he's posted in. Michael.

twirling it on a wall and seeing a complete circle is basically the same principle as a projector. its one dot but moving so fast that your eyes cant follow it. no move the twirl super slow, and all you get is a dot going in a circle. stare at a ceiling fan. looks like a blur. now turn away...

Then you'd have to lock the thread into the module some how, otherwise lens and expander would spin

I don't think that would work but I could be wrong. I think the beam needs to be collimated before it enters the expander.

This is one of those times I'm really glad I clicked on a new build link... One question though.. You wrote "my product", I'd you mean "my project"? Or tis this a kit you will be selling?

you are correct. I have a solid sterling silver hose that houses an aixiz module, and I use silver foil to make a tight fit. it gets pretty warm in about 30 seconds. btw, where did you get that 100 degree C from. that is actually the optimal temp for the Oclaro 445s. =)

haha I think about this too. Glad you brought it up. All of my deaths have been caused by my poor building. Once my lasers are up and running, I've never had one die.

I don't have one, but email them and ask if you can squeeze some silicone caulking into the hole.

check the laser pro shop, and bst section.... a semi quick way now would be to get a bunch of peppermint shrimp, I've also heard that a syringe with vinegar and inject it into to the aiptasia works too. if you go the injection route, turn off your pumps Michael.

it should be done for about 100. if you aren't looking for a fancy laser to carry around, you can be way under budget and make your own "ddl lm317" driver, buy an aixiz module with lens (like 5 bucks) a radio shack small plastic project box a battery holder that fits your 18650, and a 445 diode...

the driver kind of depends on your host. is it a single battery host? if so you need a boost driver. is it a multi batt host, then possible a linear or buck, or use spacers. what lens are you using? in other words you don't give enough info for anybody to actually help you Michael.

i still say euda is correct. all it takes is one burr to scratch and the anodizing is right off. I say better safe than sorry. while it is a "cheap" build, this is an expensive hobby and you should always take care and do things in the best manner. Michael.

this is funny. Something most seasoned members have drilled into new members heads, gets buried In the see of posts. there should be a sticky about not using 9v batts for anything over 100ma. edit... just send it to a trusted member with regulated ps. Michael.

and this is why we have dialog. whether some thing is safe or not is now up to the op to decide =p

correct.... set volts to max, and have current off. then slowly ramp up current knob. you will see current and volt values rise Michael.

I think your question would be more about peripheral vision. I just saw a thing on discovery channel about it. Its a trait that animals have developed for survival. Low quality imagery but very sensitive to any movements Michael.

whats the vf of the uv led? what is the input voltage range of the driver, what is the out put of it

you don't want to direct drive off the battery. led's are like lasers, in that they are current hungry. look at your data sheet for the uv led, then run tests on what your current driver is putting out to the current led. Michael.

thanks for the info. I didn't buy them. the pair went for 250. Michael.

I don't really. but wouldn't it be able to test small hene's with out a driver? if get them, I'd probably trade for other laser stuff or whatever. Michael.