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FrozenGate by Avery

Pros and cons of using JST Connectors in portable lasers






I use them with zero issues. I wouldnt use them in the SX4 though. Not enough room for me. They are great for flashlight conversions.
 
Bradford717 said:
Please feel free to post links because I did google search pros and cons of using jst connectors in portable lasers and didn't find much information nor here on this forum.
Click to expand...


That is because JST connectors are a non-issue.

JST makes thousands of different types and sizes of connectors used in all types of electronic equipment without any problems see: JST — World Class Quality Interconnection Products

Contact them if you have a question.

Digikey Electronics stocks 3669 different JST connectors https://www.digikey.com/en/supplier-centers/j/jst

PS Double posting is a no-no
 
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Bradford717 said:
https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B31j-c1dS8TUT0tkSW9PY2JKLXc

I documented using my new SL-SD-1 (1.25A) driver, Nichia Nubm44 6w 445nm, S4X using 1 and 2 18650's. I was pretty thorough. The most resistance I saw was 0.01 - 1.02 ohm. The jst connectors stayed about room temperature. By the way nice driver sl! I am well pleased. The lens is not a g2 it's just a standard lens used with a nubm44 that had no diode window. The data sheet isn't actual for the nubm44. I found a data sheet as close as I could get. I have not calculated voltage drop based on resistance yet. I used silver solder instead of normal rosin core solder for less resistance as silver is highly conductive.

Will post v drop later. Hungry it's supper time. :yh:
Click to expand...


Why are you using it for an NUBM44?
That driver SL-D1 is 1.25A max. meant for driving a 1W NDB7352 diode from 2009 which nobody even sells any longer and you are worrying about resistance in JST connectors.

The best output you can hope for from an nubm44 1.5 to 1.8W from it with that driver?
An NUBM44 is supposed to have 4.5A for 6.5W output and more for higher.
 
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double posting is not bad enough so you have to triple post?

Nobody else has the problems you do so....?

I just saw in post #10 you say: "A kilo-ohm is smaller than an ohm (which is smallerkilo gram or gram?). An ohm = 1000 kilo-ohms." which is just meaningless jibberish :crackup:

1000 ohms = 1 kiloohm, 0.001 kiloohm = 1 ohm----same as 1000 grams = 1 kilogram see: https://www.convertunits.com/from/ohm/to/kiloohms

On your multimeter the 2000K ohm setting is the maximum range for that scale on your meter-- the 2,000,000 ohm range
The lower the range setting, the greater the precision. A reading of 73 on that scale means 73,000 ohms and a reading of 79 means 79,000 ohms
 
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Understanding the readings, you need to understand the resolution window. A kilo-ohm is smaller than an ohm (which is smallerkilogram or gram?). An ohm = 1000 kilo-ohms. That being said, the first reading that is relevant is "2000" (1 ohm). 1 ohm can cause a difference in voltage output. Just holding your test probes in air it will read "1". So unless it's higher then the resistance is probably not even an ohm. Then the next relevant reading will be kilo-ohms "2000k". The difference between the driver solder points and after jst connection:
Click to expand...


tenor.gif
 
Bradford717 said:
I decided to start a thread after I killed a diode and it was suggested to me not to use JST Connectors. (Please feel free to share your input)

They are handy to use because you can mess your driver/diode etc up if you have to do repeat solder jobs but there are downsides.

After reading this website something else occurred to me HEAT. If you are using a smaller gauge JST Connector wire coming off the diode any heat may build up inside the diode axis housing. It may cause the same even if you use a larger gauge wire to solder a JST Connector to the diode. If the wire builds up any heat, can it adequately dissipate that heat off over the smaller gauge wire? While resistance may be somewhat compensated for using silver solder there are still other considerations.
Click to expand...

That sentence makes no sense at all....:thinking:

Neither does the Wire/Heat explanation...
What does the Wire heating up have to do
with the LD heating internally ???

If your wire to the LD is heating up it is TOO
SMALL....

Bradford717 said:
Understanding the readings, you need to understand the resolution window. A kilo-ohm is smaller than an ohm (which is smallerkilogram or gram?). An ohm = 1000 kilo-ohms. That being said, the first reading that is relevant is "2000" (1 ohm). 1 ohm can cause a difference in voltage output. Just holding your test probes in air it will read "1". So unless it's higher then the resistance is probably not even an ohm. Then the next relevant reading will be kilo-ohms "2000k". The difference between the driver solder points and after jst connection:
Click to expand...
You need to understand that 1 KiloOhm is larger than
1 Ohm by 1000 times... NOT smaller...

I can see by your Post that tou need to spend some
time researching the internet on the proper use of a
Multimeter and understanding it's readings...

Bradford717 said:
I could be wrong but not sure it will cause enough resistance to kill a diode etc.
Click to expand...
Yes you are wrong... an increase in resistance in the
supply line to a LD will DECREASE the current going
to the LD which is a Current Device.... Therefore
NOT killing it.

I would suggest not Posting what you obviously don't
have a clue about...


Jerry
 
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lasersbee said:
Yes you are wrong... an increase in resistance in the
supply line to a LD will DECREASE the current going
to the LD which is a Current Device.... Therefore
NOT killing it.

I would suggest not Posting what you obviously don't
have a clue about...


Jerry
Click to expand...


Not to mention the fact that we use constant current drivers, so changes in the load don't affect the current, at least to some extent. Even if it did, you'd end up with lower current/voltage as the driver can't keep up.

Agreed. :rolleyes:
 
Think I may set my ceiling fan on fire! Thatd be cool!
U.SA. ! U.S.A!
 
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Bradford717 said:
Think I may set my ceiling fan on fire! Thatd be cool!
Click to expand...
Sure.... Burn another one....:crackup:
Typical TROLL mentality....

BTW... deleting your trolling posts won't help.
Most of them have been Quoted in member's
Posts that you can't remove.....


Jerry
 
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You do realize Star Wars was a "Fictional Movie" right, or are you that far gone?
I don't understand how a adult can live in a fantasy world and truly believe or think they have the "Force":undecided: It's actually sad:(
Do you dress the part too?
 
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V_drop.jpg

Question? Is there anyway to block a user so you no longer see their post?
I'm not buying you're products! You should do your homework on cyberbullying
laws that apply. Stalking and harassing me on the forum is one thing if you
don't like me but sending me spiteful messages is another. You are advertising
a country and product but based on your rep comments high fiving at cyberbullying
and got rep points for doing so.
As for the message:
If you work for Wal-Mart and see me shopping at K-Mart and follow me home and
throw a brick through my window?
'hypothetical....A walmart owner is standing at front of store....you walk in
"welcome to walmart you ****** troll NOW GO **** buy something!"
Think I will just stick with Synergy brand for right now. $20.00 instead of $300.00
but that means less money going to Canada instead that can be spent at Survival
Laser Store and DTR Labs.
 
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