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Green Labbie (Pics)

rockz

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Laser Diode: 532nm 50mW Green Laser Diode Module DIY/Industrial/Lab - $21.60 : Laserlands --$26.60
Laser casing: Project Enclosure (3x2x1") - RadioShack.com --$2.29
Laser switch: Laser switch from Tech_Junkie
Battery holder: Enclosed 2 AA Battery Holder : Battery Holders | RadioShack.com --1.69

Total -- $30.57

I am going to make a box laser(532nm 50mW) powered by 2 AA batteries. Are all of these components decent for a 50mW laser?
If anyone has advice for better/brighter components, post a reply. Im guessing that I'll get better performance if I get a dedicated driver and a diode, but my budget is around $30-$40:cryyy:.

Also, should I put a capacitor to level out the power? That is what I've read on the forums.

Thanks - Brian

____________________________________________

Ok, All of the parts came, so I put it together! There's a lot of wasted space in the case, but it was the only size project box that would fit everything.
2n0lh6g.jpg


And a beamshot...
8ywfon.jpg
 
Last edited:





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Re: Building a laser - some questions

That's a nice list, Upgrade the pushbutton if you can, those little red round radio shack switches suck.

For your budget, that will be a decent little laser.

mat.jpg
 
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Re: Building a laser - some questions

Sound OK if you want to build a box laser, but you can buy a 50mW pen laser cheaper. Also green lasers do not use just diodes. Its a driver, IR diode, an aligned crystal, and optics. To build this from scratch is an epic task. Also adding a heat sink will greatly extend your modules life. You can make one from some aluminum washers and silver based epoxy.
 
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Re: Building a laser - some questions

I clicked the link and that is a nice module.

Personally I prefer threaded barrels.

If you go with a box laser design, there will be room for some generous heat sinking, that will allow you to leave it on longer.
 
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Re: Building a laser - some questions

Probably since places like Digi key prefer orders bigger than one switch, I suggest if you live in or near a city, check your local electronic hobby / surplus shops.

The pushbuttons at radio shack are OK, just cheap garbage.
 

rockz

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Re: Building a laser - some questions

PM me your address and I'll send you a switch.

Thanks, PM sent.

Do you all think that I should use a 30mW module instead? I don't have silver epoxy, and I'm a bit worried about the IR at 50mW. I ordered a 5mW pen from DX, but I want something brighter :san:. Will there be a big difference between 30 and 50mW?
 
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Re: Building a laser - some questions

PM me your address and I'll send you a switch.


Dude you beat me to it +1:na:


Been cleaning the basement shop all day, I just ran across a few switches that go to Canon typewriters....
 

rockz

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Re: Building a laser - some questions

Any ideas of how I should heat-sink the module when it arrives? I have some computer heatsink compound and some CPU heatsinks, if they will have any effect. I also have copper wire, washers, aluminum foil, screws, nuts, etc.
I want to run the laser 4-5min continuously without damage to the laser.

Thanks - Brian
 

jaycey

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Re: Building a laser - some questions

I rekon ya driver will heat up quicker than your module..but thats just my opinion:)
 
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Re: Building a laser - some questions

I rekon ya driver will heat up quicker than your module..but thats just my opinion:)

Not true, I dont think the driver on those are linear drivers. They use boost drivers. For a 50mW 532nm module it maybe using 500+mW IR diode, the crystal will heat quite a bit too. When they add TECs to those modules, they add it to the crystal, and sink, not the driver.

Find some silver if you can, or aluminum. Then grind it up with a file, and mix it with some 2 part epoxy. You can buy this too, but its around $15. Make a hole in one of your PC heat sinks and glue it in there. Also you can try mounting a PC fan on the box. Just remember to cut a vent hole so the air can pass through
 

rockz

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Re: Building a laser - some questions

Not true, I dont think the driver on those are linear drivers. They use boost drivers. For a 50mW 532nm module it maybe using 500+mW IR diode, the crystal will heat quite a bit too. When they add TECs to those modules, they add it to the crystal, and sink, not the driver.

Find some silver if you can, or aluminum. Then grind it up with a file, and mix it with some 2 part epoxy. You can buy this too, but its around $15. Make a hole in one of your PC heat sinks and glue it in there. Also you can try mounting a PC fan on the box. Just remember to cut a vent hole so the air can pass through
My heatsink looks like this. it is 2 inches by 2 inches, and about .75 inches high
117ryc4.jpg

So I should drill a hole in the middle the exact diameter of the module? I was thinking of making a groove in the middle where the module would sit, epoxied in place, but it touches very little surface area, and I don't know if that is sufficient.

Also I was thinking about the washers, but I couldn't find any that were aluminum, and I doubt stores will have the exact inner diameter.

Thanks - Brian
 
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Re: Building a laser - some questions

Yeah drill wont work.

To do it right the sink should be on the outside. The air will not move in the box.

Try to get a couple of nuts with a hole just big enough to slide the module in. Then throw some glue in the hole. :thinking: Hey that sounds like a dirty joke I know. Glue one nut on the front of the module so its outside the box, and then glue the other nut on the inside. Use a vice grip to clamp it together. More than likely it will be below 50mW so it should work ok. You'll probably get bored with it before you burn it out.

Good luck.
 

rockz

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Re: Building a laser - some questions

Yeah drill wont work.

To do it right the sink should be on the outside. The air will not move in the box.

Try to get a couple of nuts with a hole just big enough to slide the module in. Then throw some glue in the hole. :thinking: Hey that sounds like a dirty joke I know. Glue one nut on the front of the module so its outside the box, and then glue the other nut on the inside. Use a vice grip to clamp it together. More than likely it will be below 50mW so it should work ok. You'll probably get bored with it before you burn it out.

Good luck.

Is it ok if the nuts are steel?

Thanks - Brian
 




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