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ArcticMyst Security by Avery
UltraFire 90 mw as a laser for a shotgun?
- Thread starter kimo
- Start date
C
Chris.
Guest
LMFAO... A shotgun is hardly a weapon designed for accuracy.. why on earth would you need a laser sight?
A few points to consider;
-The whole point of a 'laser pointer' is that it remains collimated and focused, so no - it will not be diffused.
-The recoil? Probably not, you may well find the KTP crystals come loose.
(E.g. you will end up with an expensive IR laser)
I'd suggest a red laser because it has far fewer part count... furthermore, wouldn't a laser too bright actually scare away/cause erratic movements of your target?
Lastly a green laser will usually have a greater 'divergence' than a red one, hence the dot you see will get larger more rapidly with respect to distance.
A few points to consider;
-The whole point of a 'laser pointer' is that it remains collimated and focused, so no - it will not be diffused.
-The recoil? Probably not, you may well find the KTP crystals come loose.
(E.g. you will end up with an expensive IR laser)
I'd suggest a red laser because it has far fewer part count... furthermore, wouldn't a laser too bright actually scare away/cause erratic movements of your target?
Lastly a green laser will usually have a greater 'divergence' than a red one, hence the dot you see will get larger more rapidly with respect to distance.
Benm
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I doubt using -any- green laser pointer for general use would survive the (repeated) recoil shocks of a firearm. These things can break when you drop them on the floor out of our pocket, the only weapon they'd be good for is an airsoft gun or similar.
LMFAO... A shotgun is hardly a weapon designed for accuracy.. why on earth would you need a laser sight?
Actually, in close quarters, such as in clearing rooms, it is easy to be inaccurate with a shotgun. Not enough room for the shot to spread into a large pattern. Also, if you are using slugs, you have to be dead on.
Scaring away the target is a good idea....actually, I'd prefer they get scared and surrender.
Most lasers for guns are in the $250 up range..... I was hoping for an inexpensive solution.
Actually, in close quarters, such as in clearing rooms, it is easy to be inaccurate with a shotgun. Not enough room for the shot to spread into a large pattern. Also, if you are using slugs, you have to be dead on.
Scaring away the target is a good idea....actually, I'd prefer they get scared and surrender.
Most lasers for guns are in the $250 up range..... I was hoping for an inexpensive solution.
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You could go the hella cheap way that I would do:
-buy a green laser pointer from a store or online for cheep
-get a bunch of cable-ties
-make some groves in the laser casing wide enough to groove a cable-tie
-cable-tie it up
But that's just me. If you have the tools, you could make something to attach to the gun to hold a laser.
Either of the two would present a problem, turning it on.
Best bet, replace the push button switch with a small, flat button and attach it with a lengh of wire. To protect the new push button, use heat shrink tubing (will at least make it more durable).
But, then again, this is my cheap way of making a laser sight for anything I need it for (potato cannon, airsoft gun). Don't know what the gun looks like so there might be some problems regarding securing it in a way that won't interfere with normal operation.
Wait, if it's a 90mW UltraFire WF-501B Flashlight-Style Green Laser (CR123A), then you'll have to put something under the thinner side so that it's level. Half circular metal pipe or wood maybe. Really depends if you want it to look pretty or just to work.
----------------------------
On second thought, if you want to go full out and mod the gun (this is me just thinking, dunno if it'll actully work), you could make a sorta chassis for the laser. Sorta like a really thin drawer. The "drawer" will have rather strong springs on both sides to absorb impact in eith er direction. When the gun shoots back, the laser in it's "drawer" will take a little longer to move with the gun (unlike in my previous idea where the laser would move with the gun), the spring would, theoritically, absorb the sudden movement and the laser will follow the movement at a bit slower acceleration. The rear spring would slow the "drawer" down by increasing resistance as it goes farther. If the springs are right and all, the laser should "bounce" back and forth (front to back) until it stops. It's a bit iffy but I don't see how it could not work in my mind. But then, my mind isn't reality. Best give it a trial run with something else to see if it works.
-buy a green laser pointer from a store or online for cheep
-get a bunch of cable-ties
-make some groves in the laser casing wide enough to groove a cable-tie
-cable-tie it up
But that's just me. If you have the tools, you could make something to attach to the gun to hold a laser.
Either of the two would present a problem, turning it on.
Best bet, replace the push button switch with a small, flat button and attach it with a lengh of wire. To protect the new push button, use heat shrink tubing (will at least make it more durable).
But, then again, this is my cheap way of making a laser sight for anything I need it for (potato cannon, airsoft gun). Don't know what the gun looks like so there might be some problems regarding securing it in a way that won't interfere with normal operation.
Wait, if it's a 90mW UltraFire WF-501B Flashlight-Style Green Laser (CR123A), then you'll have to put something under the thinner side so that it's level. Half circular metal pipe or wood maybe. Really depends if you want it to look pretty or just to work.
----------------------------
On second thought, if you want to go full out and mod the gun (this is me just thinking, dunno if it'll actully work), you could make a sorta chassis for the laser. Sorta like a really thin drawer. The "drawer" will have rather strong springs on both sides to absorb impact in eith er direction. When the gun shoots back, the laser in it's "drawer" will take a little longer to move with the gun (unlike in my previous idea where the laser would move with the gun), the spring would, theoritically, absorb the sudden movement and the laser will follow the movement at a bit slower acceleration. The rear spring would slow the "drawer" down by increasing resistance as it goes farther. If the springs are right and all, the laser should "bounce" back and forth (front to back) until it stops. It's a bit iffy but I don't see how it could not work in my mind. But then, my mind isn't reality. Best give it a trial run with something else to see if it works.
Benm
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SamuraiSmm said:
Wouldn't it be easier to remove the module from the flashlight and mount it to the weapon directly?
Otherwise, get something like the 30 mW CR2 from dx or the 50 mW from kai, those little housings are the same diameter all over.
laserrod
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mikeeey
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ill tell you what. since your using a shotgun, you may wanna check out this video:
[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yahPIHQxibw[/media]
go to 1:03.
now that's the accuracy you want for a shotgun!
[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yahPIHQxibw[/media]
go to 1:03.
now that's the accuracy you want for a shotgun!
S
SenKat
Guest
kimo said:
Kimo -
Most green lasers would not withstand the recoil or the jarring from a shotgun, sorry
Now, a RED laser pointer sight for a shotgun can work fine - since you are only dealing with a red diode, and a lens - you are golden ! The greens use an IR diode, a series of crystals, then a series of lenses, then a filter, then MORe lenses ! All of that "stuff" has to be perfectly aligned, or it will not put out any green light.If you are dead-set on getting green for your guns - get the cheapie ones from Dealextreme.com - they have them fairly cheap, at that price point I would expect them to be disposable.
