Hey everyone, so I ran into 2 issues with my lazerer order. First the defective tail cap which is fixed and posted (probably in the wrong thread companies) how to fix that easily.
Well for the first few days i had a charged battery from lazerer. well it eventually died and when i put it on the charger the light would stay green no matter what. I decided to investigate and here is what i found.
The negative post on the bottom of the charger goes inside through a skinny hole in the board and is soldered into place along with being soldered to some connection. What happen was the internal end of the negative contact appeared to be to long to begin with. so it was soldered at the factory. but when the screws for the case were put in, it applied pressure to the board pushing it down and caused the solder to pull away from the board along with the green coating that is on the board.
I thought i was gonna have to order a new charger and remembered my Accucel 8 I have for rc car battery's. it works perfect and with a little time you can turn the old dead charger into a working battery holder.
basically, you heat the solder holding the negative pin in through the board until it removes. i snipped the red wire going to the spring loaded portion of the positive tab. and used an old cell phone charger cord to attach to the leads of one of the extra pigtails that came with the charger. then just simply solder positive to positive and negative to the negative tab. you may need to bend the negative pin a little to get it to stay in the slot for it but once you solder the wires and screw the case together it stays put solid. I just used little nippers to cut a small v in the side of the case for the wires to exit.
I charged my sanyo ur18650f at 1 amp 1s (3.7v) but this charger can do LiIo (3.6v) LiPo (3.7v or in my case my lithium ion 3.7v not 3.6v) or lifePo (3.3v). It did take alot longer then I thought at 1 amp and i had to charge it a second time because the cutoff timer was met at 120 minutes but it continued were it left off. not at the full 1amp because it was at 4.20v already, continued at .5amp and lowers down until .1 amp until fully charged to capacity. this way it will also show you exactly how many mah is being put into the battery and you can also see were your voltage began. The spec sheet for this battery says i can charge it at 2.8amp its a 2800mah battery so that should only take an hour. Hope this info is useful for someone! id rather use my hobby charger then a cheap charger anyday.
One note id say. inside these cheap spring loaded chargers. the spring is wrapped around a plastic post that is directly in front of the negative post. it appears that if this spring ever broke while the battery was in the charger how ever unlikely the spring could contact the negative post and cause a big problem if it was still energized. so while i was in there i bent my negative post back away from the spring as i could without damage. it was about this far away( ll )from contact with positive.
Well for the first few days i had a charged battery from lazerer. well it eventually died and when i put it on the charger the light would stay green no matter what. I decided to investigate and here is what i found.
The negative post on the bottom of the charger goes inside through a skinny hole in the board and is soldered into place along with being soldered to some connection. What happen was the internal end of the negative contact appeared to be to long to begin with. so it was soldered at the factory. but when the screws for the case were put in, it applied pressure to the board pushing it down and caused the solder to pull away from the board along with the green coating that is on the board.
I thought i was gonna have to order a new charger and remembered my Accucel 8 I have for rc car battery's. it works perfect and with a little time you can turn the old dead charger into a working battery holder.
basically, you heat the solder holding the negative pin in through the board until it removes. i snipped the red wire going to the spring loaded portion of the positive tab. and used an old cell phone charger cord to attach to the leads of one of the extra pigtails that came with the charger. then just simply solder positive to positive and negative to the negative tab. you may need to bend the negative pin a little to get it to stay in the slot for it but once you solder the wires and screw the case together it stays put solid. I just used little nippers to cut a small v in the side of the case for the wires to exit.
I charged my sanyo ur18650f at 1 amp 1s (3.7v) but this charger can do LiIo (3.6v) LiPo (3.7v or in my case my lithium ion 3.7v not 3.6v) or lifePo (3.3v). It did take alot longer then I thought at 1 amp and i had to charge it a second time because the cutoff timer was met at 120 minutes but it continued were it left off. not at the full 1amp because it was at 4.20v already, continued at .5amp and lowers down until .1 amp until fully charged to capacity. this way it will also show you exactly how many mah is being put into the battery and you can also see were your voltage began. The spec sheet for this battery says i can charge it at 2.8amp its a 2800mah battery so that should only take an hour. Hope this info is useful for someone! id rather use my hobby charger then a cheap charger anyday.
One note id say. inside these cheap spring loaded chargers. the spring is wrapped around a plastic post that is directly in front of the negative post. it appears that if this spring ever broke while the battery was in the charger how ever unlikely the spring could contact the negative post and cause a big problem if it was still energized. so while i was in there i bent my negative post back away from the spring as i could without damage. it was about this far away( ll )from contact with positive.
