Try to mod a NewWish but no pot?

[HoLun]

Heres the problem, I got the NewWish looking laser, Look exactly like it, but when I took it apart the driver broad have no pot on it... so, anyone ran into this problem? and know which resistor to change out?

 

[HoLun]

inside

 

[HoLun]

inside

 

[HoLun]

backside

 

[SenKat]

That must be a new model of New wish ! Really cool.....

To answer your question, I am not sure which resistor to switch out

 

[chimo]

Can you post some really clear macro shots of both sides of the board (with component labels visible).

 

[HoLun]

Ok, here are some close ups

Front

 

[HoLun]

Back

 

[SenKat]

Okay, here's an idea for you - R4....remove that resistor, and jumper across the space. Now, if you are really good with soldering, I would suggest desoldering the diode first, and take current measurements before removal of the resistor, and afterwards. you may even want to place a potentionometer in place of that resistor to make the current a little adjustable if you happen to have one handy. Now, that is what I would try - knowing I have spare lasers, and I wouldn't mind horribly if it died....So, that is a little risky, but if oyu remove the diode first, and take the measurements, you should be okay

Let me/us know how it turns out - if you are willing to risk it ?

 

[Comidt]

Sorry to be a little off-topic, but how do you take such close-up shots?
I have fiddled with every ittle setting I can find on the camera I use (Canon Powershot A530) and I cannot get it to take such close-up shots.
Do you have any ideas to what i can do??
Sorry again
Jonno

 

[Daedal]

For your camera these are the specs regarding focus...

Shooting Distance (from the front of the lens)

Normal AF 45cm (1.5ft.) - infinity

Macro AF 5 - 45cm (2.0in. - 1.5ft.) (W)/
30 - 45cm (11.8in. - 1.5ft.) (T)

Manual focus 5cm (2.0in.) - infinity (W)/
30cm (11.8in.) - infinity (T)

so on MACRO setting, take the zoom all the way back (zoom out) and then stabilize the camera on a stand or something and stabilize what you're trying to take a photo of... slow down the shutter speed and set the appropriate f-stop and turn off the flash because at close distances the flash ruins everything. Then... take the picture! Voila! Oh... by the way, make sure your ISO is down... opening the shutter longer and keeping the ISO down is a better tradeoff for a clear picture

So... good luck;
DDL

 

[HoLun]

I have a Nikon 2 Mega Pixel (which is now nothing sepcial) theres a scene selection labled "Close Up"

I used that, turn it on max resolution = 1600x1200, take a pic, download it to my PC, down size and compress, nice small file at good resolution.



ok I Think I am pretty good with a soldering Iron, I will do it later tonight (I work nights so it'll be pretty late as I got stuff to do now) Probly in about 4 hrs. I'll post results.

 

[SenKat]

Very cool - I look forward to your posts !

 

[HoLun]

ok Heres are the results


before the bridging of the R4 Resistor, the current will start at .21a and go straight to .16a

after bridging the resistor, the current starts and stays at .33a


the laser doesnt look any brighter, but the beam is teeny bit more visible in a dark room, after about ~20 sec the laser gets warm, and slightly flickers and gets dim.

current test is done with energizer alkaline battery

lasing is done with fully charged energizer e2 NiMH

 

[Daedal]

Oops! :-?

 

[HoLun]

Well I wasn't expecting much for a pointer thats under 20 dollars. I got this off epay. still somewhat dissappointing.

I have a DX 5mw keychain type green laser and a Leadlight 105 coming, hope those will be better.