stonetek 16x sony closed can

[brtaman]

Dark, actually it can be done, if you have just the right diameter & thickness metal tubing. The tubing goes either all the way around the diode can; or just exactly sits on the shoulder at the tip.

DanQ

Yes this is true, it is not all that hard to remove a diode from the aixiz module. Antennas are a pretty good way to do it, find appropriate sized tube in the antenna (old radio etc.)...

or if I cant find the antena I just use a little hobby screwdriver insert it on the side of the diode, and whack the aixiz module (complete with back part) with a wrench or whatever is at hand. Mostly because I don't care for the little 5mw diodes...but they always seem to work afterwards, when I torture them...:gun:

 

[danq]

Yeah I use the 10amp setting which to my knowledge has a very low impendance.

I only mentioned this method, beside the LM317 1.25/R method, because I have used it before and it worked quite well.

Just one question, how can the current be different to the diode as opposed to the multimeter, when the LM317 is itself limiting the current.

Well, the key to your success is that 10-Amp range and its low impedance. A higher-impedance multimeter or range would exhibit the problems. The reason that would be bad is, the errors induced would make the builder think the current is lower than it would be with the LD.

So I agree that your setup works well... it's just that it won't work well except for your specific situation, which may not be what someone else (especially a newbie) has on hand. I couldn't/wouldn't fault anyone for saying, "do it thiis way but be sure you use the 10-Amp range on a good meter or else it might not work right". But when that's left out...

:yh:
DanQ

 

[brtaman]

Well, the key to your success is that 10-Amp range and its low impedance. A higher-impedance multimeter or range would exhibit the problems. The reason that would be bad is, the errors induced would make the builder think the current is lower than it would be with the LD.

So I agree that your setup works well... it's just that it won't work well except for your specific situation, which may not be what someone else (especially a newbie) has on hand. I couldn't/wouldn't fault anyone for saying, "do it thiis way but be sure you use the 10-Amp range on a good meter or else it might not work right". But when that's left out...

:yh:
DanQ

Ok, I can't disagree with that. :beer:

What do you think the difference would be using the higher impendance current range. might have to carry out some tests, but the difference should be no more then when setting up a flexdrive without knowing exact Vf.

Morgan: aside from the lack of "you must set to 10-amp low impedance mode on DMM when meassuting current from leads on a linear driver" being added into the first one of my couple current measuring suggestions, every bit of info in this thread at least coming from my side, is valid...and if you read through the thread you will see that I am trying to do everything to keep the OP from burning his diode, explaining the 1.25/R technique of getting a current output.

As for your suggestiong of dummy load......As already mentioned in one of my posts, the dummy load technique is just as "inaccurate" as using a high impedance setting on a DMM. And this is a proven fact atleast it was on the v2 flexdrives which I have experience with...set a flexdrive with a Vf lower than the diodes, the current that will go into the diode will be much higher..exactly like the higher impedance DMM scenario.

 

[rajkosto]

since its an analog multimeter if i set it to 10A i wouldnt be able to see shit
meh, its set at 300mA, the stonetek diode can handle 400mA, so its all good, the error cant be that big.

 

[Darkarmyofone]

damn good idea

Dark, actually it can be done, if you have just the right diameter & thickness metal tubing. The tubing goes either all the way around the diode can; or just exactly sits on the shoulder at the tip.

DanQ

I cant believe i never thought of that before! and to think... i built an aixiz lens adjusting tool similar to the one someone else on here rigged up. allows calibration of the beam without blocking the beam. the pipe just twists around it.... and this is the same damn concept. lol but thanks for pointing that out, i assure you you've saved many diodes lives by telling me this lmao

Dark