S3 arctic red conversion?

[iconicj]

Id like to know if anyone has done this or has any thoughts on this.

Ive got an extra S3 ive broken open and would like to place a red diode there in place of the blue.

The driver and all optics are intact.. needing only a 5.5mm press fit diode.

The driver pots were adjusted before removing the blue diode and 530ma is the lowest it can go. I tried some 826 diodes but they died quickly. Someone said it was due to the arctics boost driver but i dont understand that. Is there any diode which would work for what im trying to do? How can this be done?

Im understanding that 1watt reds dont exist or arent common. Im okay with that.. 200mw or more would be fine.

Id appreciate any and all feedback. God this is hard to type on a smartphone lol

Regards,
Jeff

 

[JLSE]

The output voltage of a boost driver running off 3.6v will not work
with a red LD.

You could try a 1.2v Ni-cad cell thats a close fit in size, but I dont know
if the driver will work down to 1.2v.. You would have to play with it.

Either that or you could also try and add some diodes in series with
the red LD to bring the load voltage up to satisfy the driver when
running a Li-ion cell.

Its inefficient, but will work.

Also you have to see if the driver is pos+ ground. If it is or the neg- out
cant be common with the host, also will not work.

 

[iconicj]

Most reds prefer around 2v working voltage? If so a diode in series or 2
Might be a realistically easy option. I do want to keep the smartswitch functions in tact.

Are there any red diodes with specs closer to that of the blues?

Im ok wiyh inefficient
lol

The output voltage of a boost driver running off 3.6v will not work
with a red LD.

You could try a 1.2v Ni-cad cell thats a close fit in size, but I dont know
if the driver will work down to 1.2v.. You would have to play with it.

Either that or you could also try and add some diodes in series with
the red LD to bring the load voltage up to satisfy the driver when
running a Li-ion cell.

Its inefficient, but will work.

Also you have to see if the driver is pos+ ground. If it is or the neg- out
cant be common with the host, also will not work.

 

[JLSE]

I dont think reds go any higher than 3v, but could be mistaken. For the most
part they do not.

I think the only common trait you may find like the blu(e)(s) would only
be neutral ground on the 635's floating around.

I would test the grounds of the existing diode and cover your bases
when installing a -gnd diode. Most lasers use a +gnd system and may
need to isolate your diode..

 

[iconicj]

I was thinking about the grounding problem on the way home. The arctic laser does in fact have a positive ground as the battery goes and negative in first. are there any red laser diodes that also do not use the case as a ground? I believe if I can find a red laser diode whose case is not tied to ground I may just consider putting diodes in series with a laser diode to get the appropriate voltage drop. the driver of the arctic uses shut off completely with flashing warning lights when the battery voltage is too low, so I do not think the driver would work from a lower voltage cell. the problem I'm having right now, when you guys have already helped quite a bit with your quick responses, is that I do not have internet and only have the cell phone, so looking up individual part numbers is kind of difficult for me.

with that in mind, anyone know a part number which has neutral ground? I can just stick some diodes in series with the laser diode to impress the voltage problem.

 

[JLSE]

Not quite sure of a part number, IIRC it was o-like selling a 300mW 635.
Perhaps somebody who has the link can chime in..