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FrozenGate by Avery

pre-fab LD mounting (dvd-diode)

  • Thread starter Thread starter Mr._Sandman
  • Start date Start date
M

Mr._Sandman

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long time reader, first time poster... i had a question reguarding the oh-so-very popular topic of DVD-Burning LD's...

im getting into doing my first one and i had an idea... i had an old pistol attachment "pointer" that seems to be mounted in something like the Axis housing, i have yet to fully disassemble it to determine if its a "swap" job, but its looking promising for a compact laser with optics...

now, my concern is if i am able to mount it in there, the caseing holds 3 button cell batteries (any of these models: L1154, LR44, AG13, PX76A, GPA76 mah: 150 Volts: 1.5), would 3 be too many, or would that work fine? if i need to, i can try to mod this thing to work with only two...

let me know plzkthx!
pic below
 

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UPDATE: i was able to get it apart to where the original diode is, and it looks nearly IDENTICAL to the new one (SCORE!!!), however, i cant get the old one out... its being held in there and the front part (where the optics are) is stuck... i cant unscrew it and i ended up stripping the screw part of that...

so, either im stuck, or i have to try to cut the metal casing to get the original LD out... stay tuned
 
If you're planning on using DDL's driver this won't work since you want to use button cells, you need a lot more power than that. ;)
 
If worse comes to worse you can get the smaller of the aixiz housings. Running any diode directly off of batteries is not recommended. The LR44's do not have a high enough capacity to drive a high powered diode. It might run for a minute or two. And using three would kill the diode.

The AMC7135 regulator might be a good candidate for this project. It can run off a single li-ion AA battery..14500. But I don't know if there would be enough room in there. You might need to add a case for the regulator and battery.
 
chido said:
If you're planning on using DDL's driver this won't work since you want to use button cells, you need a lot more power than that. ;)
Click to expand...

DDL? srry, im a noob at this...

[quote author=Gazzo]
If worse comes to worse you can get the smaller of the aixiz housings. Running any diode directly off of batteries is not recommended. The LR44's do not have a high enough capacity to drive a high powered diode. It might run for a minute or two. And using three would kill the diode.

The AMC7135 regulator might be a good candidate for this project. It can run off a single li-ion AA battery..14500. But I don't know if there would be enough room in there. You might need to add a case for the regulator and battery. [/quote]

LR44's have 1.5 volts... unless thats not what you mean by "high capacity"... also, can i get a link to that regulator? i have a few ideas for a new housing for this project anyway, if this doesnt work out
 
The capacity of any battery is measured in mah's with a load over a period of time, usually 1 hour. So, for example, if a manufacturer rates a LR44 at 140mah's, (milliamp hours) this could be with a test load that draws as low as .1C of the battery. Assuming this is what they did, the battery would be able to supply a current of 14ma's for an hour. I don't have the specs for the LR44, so again this is only an example.

All of the red laser diodes I have used begin to lase with 50-60 milliamps. However for burning and a reasonably bright beam, you will need to run the diode with about 150 ma's of current if using a diode from a 16X burner. If you draw 150ma's from an LR44, the battery will not last anywhere near an hour. You might get a few minutes of run time...if that.
 
the AMC7135 is a little bigger than my project can hold... ill probably have to get another box to support it...

before i do anything else, however, i want to test the diode to make sure it even works... i extracted it from a burner myself and, although, i am careful, i did use a little force when getting it out... i know how fragile these things can be....

what would be the easiest way to test this? (i thought i saw someone take a normal AC transformer that was 3v and just wire it to it temporarily to see if it outputs, what would be something i could do with just some everyday parts? i have a 9v clip.... would that be TOO much power?--assumes yes)

also, the link was for a 20-pack... i only need one... where can i get one and for how much?
 
Unless anyone has a spare 7135, or someone wants to go in with you, you will need to buy all 20. My extras were already spoken for before I ordered them.

For a real quick test, take any AA or AAA alkaline battery and hook it up to the diode. It will be about as bright as an led. I really do not recommend hooking up the diode to any more than one battery because you do risk burning out your diode, but if you are anxious, and only if you have a pair of nimh batteries so that the voltage of each battery is 1.2 volts, you could hook it up to those to see if the diode lases. But do it quickly. You will know it is lasing because it will be super bright. Of course, never under any circumstances, look directly into the diode.
 
Gazoo said:
The capacity of any battery is measured in mah's with a load over a period of time, usually 1 hour. So, for example, if a manufacturer rates a LR44 at 140mah's, (milliamp hours) this could be with a test load that draws as low as .1C of the battery. Assuming this is what they did, the battery would be able to supply a current of 14ma's for an hour. I don't have the specs for the LR44, so again this is only an example.

All of the red laser diodes I have used begin to lase with 50-60 milliamps. However for burning and a reasonably bright beam, you will need to run the diode with about 150 ma's of current if using a diode from a 16X burner. If you draw 150ma's from an LR44, the battery will not last anywhere near an hour. You might get a few minutes of run time...if that.
Click to expand...


i see... pretend i was building this from scratch, with the exception of the diode itself, which is closed can, and the heatsink, if i can extract it (i want to try to salvage it because it has the optics, pics attached)... what would you recommend i house and power this thing with?
 

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I would recommend getting this module if you are building from scratch:

http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.5914

The reason being is because a high power diode produces a lot of heat. This module will provide adequate heat sinking for a couple minute duty cycles running the diode with 250ma's.

As far as a box, it depends. You can use anything from a project box to a flashlight. For your first laser project, I would recommend using the LM317T which is the same regulator Daedal uses in his circuit. It is cheap, easy to work with, easily available (Radio Shack) and extremely easy to calculate the current. I have found the following link very helpful:

http://users.pandora.be/davshomepage/current-source.htm

The only drawback is that it needs at least 3 volts going into it as it puts out. So the recommended batteries are either 2 RCR123's, or 6 nimh batteries.

BTW, you can get all the parts you need here too:

http://sales.stonetek.org/
 
Mr._Sandman said:
thx for the help m8! ill get this going in no time, i hope :P
Click to expand...

It really is easy. But using current regulation is important. As the diode heats up it draws more current if you are not using a current regulator. The LM317 solves this and will keep the current to the diode constant no matter how hot or cold it is. One of a few good reasons to use a current regulator.
 
UPDATE!!!

i tested the diode and it workx!!! brilliant bright light filled my desk... i couldnt get it running with a single AA so i risked it and used two AAA's in another project im working on...

the blue stuff is poster putty... its a more fluid "helping hands" imo... :P the diode was sitting on the top.

(im probably just going to get one of those modules and one of the dev kits off of stonetek... seems like the easy way to do it.)
 

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