tuskiomi
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Hello, all. I'm going to be essentially turning my SF501B 405nm into a labby.
my plan: quadrouple the wattage the wattage to 3.2 watts :eg:.
note: this is purely for fun. I don't think i'd ever need a 3.2 watt laser for any reason.
[img=500x400]http://d11fdyfhxcs9cr.cloudfront.net/templates/220240/myimages/img_1746ex.jpg[/img]
Here's how I plan to do that:
The Sf501b host is a simple chunk of aluminum that has bare contact with the diode. Yuck. To double the current output, we'll need to make some MAJOR modifications. first off, The bare contact. as seen in the picture above, the diode the diode simply makes raw contact with the aluminum, which is very ineffecient for heat transfer! To fix this, a smooth coating of Thermal paste. However, at 3.2 watts,we'll need more than just some paste to cool this diode. currently, I'm planning to weld this host into an old PC heatsink block. That will add some heat capacitence. but not NEARLY enough to keep this laser in operating range! The horsepower of this operation is going to be 70W Thermoelectric pads!:wave:. In short, these buggers are comprised of 2 metal plates that, when a current is pushed through them, move heat from one plate to the other. These things will prime the heatsink to a chill ~-14C under standard room temperature pressure. of course, these are moving heat, not destroying it. I'll get to where the heat is going later. To power the diode, TheJoker claims to be using a 600mA buck driver. to quadrouple that, we'll need push 1.2A, assuming resistance is consistent. For this I'm emplying a 2.8A constant current source. This is twice the current needed, so I'm coming up with a simple solution that bucks the current down from a 12V rail. The last that we need is a power source. For this, I'm enploying an old 500W PC power supply. This supply will be the heatsink for the thermoelectric pads, as the regulators also dump some excess heat into the casing. Total, these pads are going to be set in 2 stacks of 2, the Idea being that The temperature differential between the plates on each side will remain somewhat constant.all together, the pads will draw 280W from the 12V rail to keep this baby nice and cool. According to the amazon page, each of these can draw 68W of energy away from a source. I doubt that the maximum 11.4W maximum power output will even put a dent in the temp.
All Items are coming in the post, so I'll post pictures as they come.
my plan: quadrouple the wattage the wattage to 3.2 watts :eg:.
note: this is purely for fun. I don't think i'd ever need a 3.2 watt laser for any reason.
[img=500x400]http://d11fdyfhxcs9cr.cloudfront.net/templates/220240/myimages/img_1746ex.jpg[/img]
Here's how I plan to do that:
The Sf501b host is a simple chunk of aluminum that has bare contact with the diode. Yuck. To double the current output, we'll need to make some MAJOR modifications. first off, The bare contact. as seen in the picture above, the diode the diode simply makes raw contact with the aluminum, which is very ineffecient for heat transfer! To fix this, a smooth coating of Thermal paste. However, at 3.2 watts,we'll need more than just some paste to cool this diode. currently, I'm planning to weld this host into an old PC heatsink block. That will add some heat capacitence. but not NEARLY enough to keep this laser in operating range! The horsepower of this operation is going to be 70W Thermoelectric pads!:wave:. In short, these buggers are comprised of 2 metal plates that, when a current is pushed through them, move heat from one plate to the other. These things will prime the heatsink to a chill ~-14C under standard room temperature pressure. of course, these are moving heat, not destroying it. I'll get to where the heat is going later. To power the diode, TheJoker claims to be using a 600mA buck driver. to quadrouple that, we'll need push 1.2A, assuming resistance is consistent. For this I'm emplying a 2.8A constant current source. This is twice the current needed, so I'm coming up with a simple solution that bucks the current down from a 12V rail. The last that we need is a power source. For this, I'm enploying an old 500W PC power supply. This supply will be the heatsink for the thermoelectric pads, as the regulators also dump some excess heat into the casing. Total, these pads are going to be set in 2 stacks of 2, the Idea being that The temperature differential between the plates on each side will remain somewhat constant.all together, the pads will draw 280W from the 12V rail to keep this baby nice and cool. According to the amazon page, each of these can draw 68W of energy away from a source. I doubt that the maximum 11.4W maximum power output will even put a dent in the temp.
All Items are coming in the post, so I'll post pictures as they come.
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