Welcome to Laser Pointer Forums - discuss green laser pointers, blue laser pointers, and all types of lasers

Buy Site Supporter Role (remove some ads) | LPF Donations

Links below open in new window

FrozenGate by Avery

MELLES GRIOT 05-LLR-831 10mW max HeNe Laser - eekBay






I don't know but they accepted my offer of $20 :D

Much better than the original price of $325.00

Lase
 
The part number says to me it is probably a 5mW Laser.
I could be wrong.... but Googleing that part number only
comes up with 5mW.


Jerry
 
Last edited:
Yeah I know. I looked it up on the Melles Griot website.

They do only state 10mW max and that they can't fire them up or test them though. They don't even list the wavelength. So I'm guessing the seller doesn't really know what he has.

Here's the link to the original product page. Link

Lase
 
The problem with these units is they contain the PSU and have no external HV wiring. I know what you're thinking... "how is that a problem". It is a problem because it means it would be obvious if there were working or not. Chances are they've either got degassed tubes or burnt out PSUs. Since these are sealed all in one units the most common problems of frayed/broken/shorted/cut cables are eliminated. Those common problems are often what allows old lasers like these to actually be worth while for hobbyists like us to buy. We can easily fix those problems and get the unit lasing again.

So, good luck! If you buy one of these there is a much higher chance of it not working than if you were to buy an 05-LHR-911 style HeNe head.

Also, their international shipping prices are really high! $60 to AUS!
 
Thanks for that +1

I've got one on it's way so it'll be a project to fiddle with and learn with before playing with the ones I bought off you. By the way, were they the 05-LHR-911 style?

Lase
 
Yep, they were. Those style heads are the easiest to repair as long as the tube is still functional. Getting the tube out of the head is an utter hellish nightmare though, haha. I've done it twice... never again. Typically they don't degas as fast as others either since equilibrium is reached inside the air tight head, which further increases the lifetime of the tube. They are truly ideal for the hobbyist market, especially since when they are removed they typically only have the HV cord cut and nothing more (because accessing the internals is a nightmare!).

When all in one units are decomissioned sometimes the internal electronics are intentionally fried for the same reason the HV cords on the 05-LHR-911 styles are cut, and a cut cord is way easier to repair. What the reasoning behind destructively decomissioning a working laser is... is beyond me. I still can't wrap my head around that other than to perhaps prevent employees from stealing and reselling.

Thanks for the rep! =)
 
Sigurthr said:
When all in one units are decomissioned sometimes the internal electronics are intentionally fried for the same reason the HV cords on the 05-LHR-911 styles are cut, and a cut cord is way easier to repair. What the reasoning behind destructively decomissioning a working laser is... is beyond me. I still can't wrap my head around that other than to perhaps prevent employees from stealing and reselling.
Click to expand...

It doesn't work that way though :P They still end up in our hands somehow.

I'm going to take one of the tubes out of the head. I'm just doing a lot of research on it first. I've heard it can be easy or hard depending on the head.

Lase
 
Last edited:
The ones I sold are all high-temp Silicone RTV potted. There are holes around the circumference of the head body where the silicone is pumped in. It then adheres to the tube (weakly) and the aluminum walls of the head (strongly). There are two methods of removal... one is to take a thin and long strip of stainless steel and shape it to the curve of the head and use it to cut the RTV from the walls of the head. The other method is to open both ends of the head (the aperture end is epoxied - not easy to un do!) and use a piano or nonwound guitar wire to cut the RTV. Both methods take forever and steady hands. Good luck and have fun! (Btw, the head wrapped in electrical tape has part of the work already done. Whoever owned it before I bought it gave it a go but didn't get very far, so that may be an ideal one to start on. The reason for the tape wrapping is to make the head air-tight again.)
 
Last edited:
Cool thanks :beer:

I still have some cheese wire somewhere from when I worked as a chef. Might give that a go.

Lase
 
I bought one of these from the same seller. The tube is good but the brick power supply squeals real bad and after a few seconds on the beam starts to dim and flash real fast.
Don't know what to do to fix it.
 
Aye either that or since these are high mileage tubes they require more current to stay lit once the negative resistance kicks in. That is a common symptom of high mileage tubes (higher current draw to stay lit). Either way you're looking at a new PSU. You can try adjusting the ballast resistance, sometimes going up or down a few ohms will let it run longer. It really depends on how much current the tube really wants.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.


Back
Top