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ArcticMyst Security by Avery

Laser Lighter

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not really much of a danger issue, like wolfman suggested, i will buy a cheap pair of bluray blocking goggles and cover 3 sides of the beam, so you can look through the glass and see the ciggerate or whatever burning, and also, you wont be able to see the beam.

and TJ, you were saying about the PHR thing, did you mean i should only use a PHR diode for this, or can i use a 1w 445nm with a buck/boost driver, and 1 lithium cell?
 





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"You see son, you don't need some $2 cheapy lighter, just buy yourself a $100 laser lighter that takes 3 times as long to light the same cigarette!"

it wont cost $100, and if i was a dad, i wouldnt buy this for my kid. and it wont take 3 times as long, it will be more fun, and i dont smoke, so its just the act of making something cool, not a lighter.

however, if thats the way you see it, theres nothing i can do
 
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true, but it would ruin the whole miniature lighter thing, and i dont want to drop $30 on it. ill try in this small regular size one, only cost me $3 from amazon, i already have one of those small ones, but ordered another one, just so i have like a before/ after thing
 
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TJ, you were saying about the PHR thing, did you mean i should only use a PHR diode for this, or can i use a 1w 445nm with a buck/boost driver, and 1 lithium cell?

Blu-Rays burn better for the buck. So a PHR, or GGW would be best for the small batteries you are going to be using. Anything over 200mA would draw too much current from the batteries. You could use a 445, but you'd have to keep it set for ~200mA to be safe. So its cheaper to just use a PHR.

Stick with Rogs specs. All together should cost you ~$20 plus the Zippo.
 
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yep, getting a PHR soon, it was meant for a bluray build in a host, but i guess i can stall that for a bit, also getting a SF-AW210. which should i use?
 

JLSE

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If you value your eye sight I would suggest you forget all about this, there has been enough people hurt with these !

Links???

Blu-Rays burn better for the buck. So a PHR, or GGW would be best for the small batteries you are going to be using. Anything over 200mA would draw too much current from the batteries. You could use a 445, but you'd have to keep it set for ~200mA to be safe. So its cheaper to just use a PHR.

Stick with Rogs specs. All together should cost you ~$20 plus the Zippo.

Threshold of a 445 is around 250mA, and wont be an effective burner under
.5A at minimum.

Unless the tobacco is really stale, a PHR wont do much good. I smoke, and
have tried many lasers for lighting cig's. 100mW is pretty much useless..
I have a 120mW 405, and while it will scorch the surface of the tobacco,
getting it lit is a whole other matter.

To the OP, a boost driver with a protected 10440 running a 445 will be your best
bet. Unless you just want to make one for the sake of having it, then I would avoid
class 4 diodes..


For the lens, get a hold of the stock A140 projectors lenses.. They make a smaller point
than a g1 and transmit more light.. Optics will help reduce the strain on the system
while providing more power..
 
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um yeah, like i said, i dont smoke, so i wont be using this to light any cigerates. if it lights matches quickly, im happy, and im sure a PHR can do that. i was thinking a flexdrive or micro boost drive run at 100mA, then like a g1/2 lens, but for the initial prototype, a 3 element will have to do.

i want to keep the cost down for this, its just a small "backyard" experiment, im not planning on this going viral or anything, and now that i think about it, i could better use one of those 445nm diodes in a host build, so a PHR will do for this.

thanks for all the help and comments guys.
 

JLSE

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Hi everyone.

So I was thinking about various things to build a laser into, and I had a great idea (I think) of building one into a zippo lighter/flip top lighter.

I will use a bluray diode with a fixed focus so there is a focal point, where it will burn say cigerates etc.


um yeah, like i said, i dont smoke, so i wont be using this to light any cigerates. if it lights matches quickly, im happy.

Perhaps I should have read more carefully :thinking:

Also, if you plan an enclosed area, the chlorate residue from matches will
leave tons of residue.. You will have to clean your optics near every use
no matter what the positioning.

i want to keep the cost down for this, its just a small "backyard" experiment,



The lens from the projectors cost nothing if not free... You indicate keeping
a low cost, yet a G1 or G2 will cost you 25-50$ depending if you get it mounted or DIY the mount.
 
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aahh you know what i mean, i meant so it burns things like ciggerates, and maybe ill just keep the are not enclosed, so no residue is left. i probably wont be using a g1/2, just a 3element.
 




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