vk2fro
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While doing some research on this and the other forum I have deduced a lot of information on the ILT 5405A power supply. This is for my reference, but may help others:
I NEED TO DOUBLE CHECK THIS FIRST. Waiting on a supply from up north or from ebay. I will also be getting my RPC-50 back down as well, and then I can thoroughly double check.
I have worked out this information by looking at a scanned copy of the schematic of the RPC-50 remote control that LSRFAQ posted on the other forum, as well as detailed photographs of the laser power supply supplied by fellow forum member DashApple.
After building a remote, set your lasers head pot to the point where the laser stays lit after setting the PSU to current mode (see below - dip switches). This sets idle current.
BEWARE! Most of the power supply is line connected. Also large capacitors can stay charged for a while as well, and can easily give you a belting. Leave the supply unplugged overnight before opening it. If you must work live, work with one hand behind your back!
Remote Interface (AMP type - takes plug type: "Amp 206150" connector on front above head connector):
Warning! Many of the pins on this connector are at mains potential and WILL shock you.
1,34: Analog Ground - NOT AC GROUND!
4: Thermal interlock: may shock you
7: Sheild/AC Ground.
14: Live - This will shock you!
16: Neutral - This will shock you too!
19: Power control - See below (0-5v - 0v = full power)
20: -15V
21: +15V
22: Light Sense: 0.1/mW For an arduino you would need to use a 10:1 voltage divder once you get above 50mW to measure up to 500mW
27: Current Sense: 10mV/A. Range approx 60mV to 120mV (6-12 amps)
28: Head Cover Interlock: may shock you
31: Fan Return: may shock you
37: Fan Interlock: may shock you
the ones I have labelled "may shock you" mean exactly that. The ones that say "This will shock you" absolutely will! Still who wants to gamble on their life. Take care around that remote connector
Sadly, there doesn't seem to be a way to turn the discharge on and off from the remote. You can put a key/e stop on your front panel using the interlock port on the front panel of the power supply to do this. Very bad oversight of ILT to omit this feature on the remote. Or you can put a flag in front of the laser that fails safe.
Making an idle/run and power control:
To avoid pot fiddling inside the supply, we'll use the head's pot as an idle control. This prevents the laser from winking out and relighting if the remote's pot is set too low. Connect the lower contact of a switch to the wiper of the pot. connect the CW side of the pot to pin 1 or the ground of an LM7805, and the CCW side to the output pin of the LM7805. You looking for the voltage to increase from 0 as you turn the pot clockwise. The other LM7805 pin goes to pin 21. Leave the upper switch contact floating. Connect the middle switch contact to pin 19. Use a suitable DPDT switch and LED's to give indicators. Up is run, down is idle, provided the switch contact with the pot's wiper is toward the bottom. Floating the top pin allows the laser head to control idle power. This has the added bonus of having easy access to the "idle current set pot" as the laser ages.
I will draw up a scematic later. Basically as the voltage rises on pin 19, the laser power increases and vice versa. When the switch is flipped to idle, the pot in the head takes over.
Dip Switches on the control board:
There is a red dip switch block on the topmost board inside the supply. If you want current control of the laser they should be OFF, ON, OFF, OFF. Light control : ON, OFF, OFF, OFF. You can also force a light feedback laser into current mode or vice versa on a model that was originally the opposite way. I vaugly recall I did this with my other ASL unit, and that gave me 5-11 amps/a few 10's to 300+mw power with the head pot. On this one I also tweaked a pot inside the power supply as lowest current couldn't quite keep the tube lit. I don't remember which one, but it was probably the stby low limit. So on that note...
DO NOT TOUCH THE POTS INSIDE THE SUPPLY!!
Note that more than likely the + and - 15V have a limited source. Thats why the RPC-50 had its own transformer and rectifier built in, and ran off pin 14 and 16. If you plan to make a remote with a display, arduino, or other fancy bits, you can use batteries (safer) or include a small transformer and rectifier etc, and use power from these pins. Alternatively you could go really smart, add a small transformer to the supply, and use an arduino and display on the front panel for power and current measurments.
I NEED TO DOUBLE CHECK THIS FIRST. Waiting on a supply from up north or from ebay. I will also be getting my RPC-50 back down as well, and then I can thoroughly double check.
I have worked out this information by looking at a scanned copy of the schematic of the RPC-50 remote control that LSRFAQ posted on the other forum, as well as detailed photographs of the laser power supply supplied by fellow forum member DashApple.
After building a remote, set your lasers head pot to the point where the laser stays lit after setting the PSU to current mode (see below - dip switches). This sets idle current.
BEWARE! Most of the power supply is line connected. Also large capacitors can stay charged for a while as well, and can easily give you a belting. Leave the supply unplugged overnight before opening it. If you must work live, work with one hand behind your back!
Remote Interface (AMP type - takes plug type: "Amp 206150" connector on front above head connector):
Warning! Many of the pins on this connector are at mains potential and WILL shock you.
1,34: Analog Ground - NOT AC GROUND!
4: Thermal interlock: may shock you
7: Sheild/AC Ground.
14: Live - This will shock you!
16: Neutral - This will shock you too!
19: Power control - See below (0-5v - 0v = full power)
20: -15V
21: +15V
22: Light Sense: 0.1/mW For an arduino you would need to use a 10:1 voltage divder once you get above 50mW to measure up to 500mW
27: Current Sense: 10mV/A. Range approx 60mV to 120mV (6-12 amps)
28: Head Cover Interlock: may shock you
31: Fan Return: may shock you
37: Fan Interlock: may shock you
the ones I have labelled "may shock you" mean exactly that. The ones that say "This will shock you" absolutely will! Still who wants to gamble on their life. Take care around that remote connector
Sadly, there doesn't seem to be a way to turn the discharge on and off from the remote. You can put a key/e stop on your front panel using the interlock port on the front panel of the power supply to do this. Very bad oversight of ILT to omit this feature on the remote. Or you can put a flag in front of the laser that fails safe.
Making an idle/run and power control:
To avoid pot fiddling inside the supply, we'll use the head's pot as an idle control. This prevents the laser from winking out and relighting if the remote's pot is set too low. Connect the lower contact of a switch to the wiper of the pot. connect the CW side of the pot to pin 1 or the ground of an LM7805, and the CCW side to the output pin of the LM7805. You looking for the voltage to increase from 0 as you turn the pot clockwise. The other LM7805 pin goes to pin 21. Leave the upper switch contact floating. Connect the middle switch contact to pin 19. Use a suitable DPDT switch and LED's to give indicators. Up is run, down is idle, provided the switch contact with the pot's wiper is toward the bottom. Floating the top pin allows the laser head to control idle power. This has the added bonus of having easy access to the "idle current set pot" as the laser ages.
I will draw up a scematic later. Basically as the voltage rises on pin 19, the laser power increases and vice versa. When the switch is flipped to idle, the pot in the head takes over.
Dip Switches on the control board:
There is a red dip switch block on the topmost board inside the supply. If you want current control of the laser they should be OFF, ON, OFF, OFF. Light control : ON, OFF, OFF, OFF. You can also force a light feedback laser into current mode or vice versa on a model that was originally the opposite way. I vaugly recall I did this with my other ASL unit, and that gave me 5-11 amps/a few 10's to 300+mw power with the head pot. On this one I also tweaked a pot inside the power supply as lowest current couldn't quite keep the tube lit. I don't remember which one, but it was probably the stby low limit. So on that note...
DO NOT TOUCH THE POTS INSIDE THE SUPPLY!!
Note that more than likely the + and - 15V have a limited source. Thats why the RPC-50 had its own transformer and rectifier built in, and ran off pin 14 and 16. If you plan to make a remote with a display, arduino, or other fancy bits, you can use batteries (safer) or include a small transformer and rectifier etc, and use power from these pins. Alternatively you could go really smart, add a small transformer to the supply, and use an arduino and display on the front panel for power and current measurments.
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