Did i burn out my diode?

[r34p3rex]

my DDL driver is outputting about 4.5 volts using 2 3v CR123 by using a 3ohm resister instead of a pot+10ohm resister as suggested by jayrob (he said this will output about 420ma).. the diode is inside a heatsink made by jayrob

this is the first time i've used an open can diode so i'm not sure if its supposed to light up really dimly when burnt out like the closed can diodes

when i connect the diode to the driver, nothing lights up at all.. did i get the polarity of the diode wrong? (i'm using a sony nec optiarc 7190 diode)

 

[jayrob]

my DDL driver is outputting about 4.5 volts using 2 3v CR123 by using a 3ohm resister instead of a pot+10ohm resister as suggested by jayrob (he said this will output about 420ma).. the diode is inside a heatsink made by jayrob

this is the first time i've used an open can diode so i'm not sure if its supposed to light up really dimly when burnt out like the closed can diodes

when i connect the diode to the driver, nothing lights up at all.. did i get the polarity of the diode wrong? (i'm using a sony nec optiarc 7190 diode)

One thing to trace back, is whether or not you discharged the cap before connecting the LD. If you built your driver like I do (silicon diode and cap right in the circuit), you must do this 'discharge' after testing the driver, but before you connect the LD. Otherwise you will kill the LD before you get a chance to see if it works...

Did you check the current? Maybe the driver is not working correctly. (hopefully) Otherwise, it doesn't sound too good for your LD.

Bummer man...
Jay

 

[r34p3rex]

[quote author=r34p3rex link=1209855233/0#0 date=1209855232]my DDL driver is outputting about 4.5 volts using 2 3v CR123 by using a 3ohm resister instead of a pot+10ohm resister as suggested by jayrob (he said this will output about 420ma).. the diode is inside a heatsink made by jayrob

this is the first time i've used an open can diode so i'm not sure if its supposed to light up really dimly when burnt out like the closed can diodes

when i connect the diode to the driver, nothing lights up at all.. did i get the polarity of the diode wrong? (i'm using a sony nec optiarc 7190 diode)

One thing to trace back, is whether or not you discharged the cap before connecting the LD. If you built your driver like I do (silicon diode and cap right in the circuit), you must do this 'discharge' after testing the driver, but before you connect the LD. Otherwise you will kill the LD before you get a chance to see if it works...

Did you check the current? Maybe the driver is not working correctly. (hopefully) Otherwise, it doesn't sound too good for your LD.

Bummer man...
Jay
[/quote]

figured it out - battery wasn't making good contact LOL! but yea, i think i killed the diode - its really dim

jay, how many volts can these diodes handle? i'm about to order a few more

 

[jayrob]

jay, how many volts can these diodes handle? i'm about to order a few more

Using a DDL driver, you don't need to even think about voltage, except to supply enough voltage. 3.0 volt batteries are not enough. You need 2 X 3.6 volt batteries.

The LD will take what ever voltage that it needs. Just measure current. If you are using a 3 ohm resistor in a DDL driver, you should have about 420mA's.

Perfect for a long open can diode using my heatsink! I have made about 3 of the MXDL builds so far that use a 2.7 ohm resistor instead. They put out about 470mA's. Here's Lava's graph of a long open can diode:

470mA's is at the high end of the curve. But with that heatsink, and a duty cycle of 1 min. on/30 sec. off, we are hoping for the best!
So far, so good...
Jay