Broken Button/Switch Help

[belmaktor]

A few months ago I bought a 200mw blu ray laser and it has worked great until recently. Now when you press the button to turn it on, it simply doesn't. I can get it to flicker quickly and if I am real lucky I can get it to stay on if I apply just the right amound ot presure but it is very difficult to do so. It is a basic clicky button, press and hold to turn on, release to turn off. The general feel when pressing the button is the same. Any idea what went wrong and any hopes of fixing?

This is the laser
LZCS - 405nm 200mW Focusable Violet Laser Pointer

 

[Cyparagon]

Probably the switch like you say. Measure the current at the tail cap when you press the button. If there's no current, it is almost certainly the switch. You can try replacing it, but the module is often press-fit into the aluminum case. That makes it difficult to remove it without damaging something.

 

[billyblanko]

Yes , as cyparagon suggest`s it sounds like a simple button failure , if u post a couple of pics we can suggest the best method to get inside so u can do a continuity test on the switch itself then replace .
scott

 

[daawood123]

Put the batteries in and short the cap by holding a wire from the end of the battery (the bit that the current comes from) to the threading inside (or outside, depending on your laser) and see if the laser lights up. If it does, then its a tailcap problem

 

[belmaktor]

I'm sure its not the tailcap because I tried one from another laser of the same model and it still didn't work. As regards to pictures, are the ones in the link not sufficient? I have also switched batteries so it isnt that either. To be honest my hopes aren't very high when it comes to dissassembling the thing because it's construction doesn't seem to be dissassemble friendly. Any ideas though on what would cause a switch to fail like this?

 

[billg519]

This is unfortunately all too common with these mass produced chinese clicky switches. This is a side clicky setup, so getting to the switch is more challenging. Hopefully the switch assembly is not epoxied in place. You need to remove this assembly and see what clicky switch is used in there. Perhaps DX will have a similar clicky and you can rebuild your swirch assembly. This switch may be soldered onto the driver board, depending on how this laser is made. Otherwise you will have to work in a different clicky switch, which may take a little creativity. Get more than one switch, chances are you'll be in there again sometime.