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FrozenGate by Avery

Another 495nm cfmod GH04955A2G

Bacon

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Mar 26, 2013
Messages
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I bought a couple cfmod "pens" and wanted to put in the GH04955A2G that I got from Styro becuase I really liked the way jnrpop's looked. This was my fist time pressing a diode and it went good! :D

I picked up the powder coated black 22mm HS and adapter is from Lifetime, and I'm glad I did because the 22mm HS I got from DTR were about 0.5mm too small in diameter to fit the adapter.

My phone camera makes them seem more blue than in person (on the 5th pic; side by side). I set the flexdrive to just a little under 100mA to try and keep it more blue if possible.
It came out to be around 35mW and just SLIGHTLY more blue than the 140mW 495 I got from Lifetime.

Also the full size copper back half was able to fit inside with the flexdrive. :cool: Tapping a 3mm hole in the bottom actually turned out pretty good and did not pinch the 26awg wire even after unscrewing a few times to check.

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My cfmod
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Lifetime's build
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Awesome job, never bad to have 2 :D

Thanks for sharing this

+rep
 
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Nice work on those cfmods, Bacon. You said your camera makes it look more blue than it is. It looks very much like the 493nm I have that has green in it. I do have a 488nm build that stays under 488nm and it looks light blue with no green in it at all. I was wondering about yours as my experience with these diodes is if you stay under 489nm it is blue and above 491nm is has green in it. Thanks for sharing these. + Rep.

For future reference, i can see the the diode didn't fully press into your module. When it does, the back of the diode is sunk down inside the module and no part is above the base.
 
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since the other one is slightly bluer, you have a chance to see how much just a few nm makes a difference in color! not too many people get to see that in person
 
No denying the colour difference here Bacon, well done awesome build. It makes me think, the diodes from Styro, were they 490's or 495's? The color on this build looks more like 490, and lifetimes 140mW build would be up around 495 with the heat :thinking:

The 22mm modules still are a tricky build getting the -&+ connections correct, not that much room to work with.

Thanks for the thread and great photos :D

J
 
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What current you running the diode to achive 140mw? Im thinking to set mine 170-200 ma as the wavelengh is already high on the edge between blue and green. Your camera pick the colors better than mine. Very nice builds,i still waiting my pico drive to arrive for my build :)

I'll rep when i get on my pc because its not letting me from the phone
 
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At the time I think they just called them 495nm. It probably is slightly lower. I think I meant the 5th picture seemed more blue than normal.

Like other have noticed; it seems more blue to my eyes when the area is already lit, but if completely dark it seems to appear more green. It is kinda strange. :thinking:
 
Seeing as these are not the same power, that could influence the way you see the color of them too. If they were close to the same power, then any difference in color could be attributed to the diodes' wavelengths.
 
What current you running the diode to achive 140mw? Im thinking to set mine 170-200 ma as the wavelengh is already high on the edge between blue and green. Your camera pick the colors better than mine. Very nice builds,i still waiting my pico drive to arrive for my build :)

I'll rep when i get on my pc because its not letting me from the phone

Thanks, I went back and checked.
I'm not sure which batch of diode he used in that one, but he set a flex drive to 220mA and measured 146mW. Also both of mine were using a g2 when testing.
 
I used to test all my lasers with an aspheric lens such as the so called G-2. But since I have been using acrylic lenses with all my Sharp diodes, I felt that was not accurate. So, now I test all my lasers with the lens they are going to be paired with.
 
The G2 is definitely staying on my other 495. I ended up using a 3E on the cfmod just to tame the "box" since the "wings" were not too bad.

The 'acrylic' lenses I have (in short plastic housings) from DTR look absolutely terrible to me; cant stand them at all. Are those acrylic?
I like the 2E on my little 520, and think G2 goes well with lower powered lasers though.
 
I don't understand what you are calling "wings" as these are single mode diodes and don't have wide emitters that are the source of what I've come to know as "wings". Do you have a photo of the problem you are talking about? I'd like to see these "wings" as I have no idea to what you are referring.
 
this is what i call wings,this is my 505nm build and i had the laser 20cm away from the target,if i aim it at over a meter those spread too much and lose the visibility so doesn't bother me.

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Oh, that is splash. You can't see it unless you are 8 inches away. I generally take my beam shots at 20 feet or more. The dot, or rather, the unilluminated spot at that distance is 1-2 mm. That is great divergence. If you are worried about a little splash at 8 inches, try masking. It will eliminate all of that.
 
Yes DedShadow, I think that is was I was talking about; the splash. I wasnt sure what the right name for that was so I use quotes. I prefer the 3e because the splash it makes is very faint close up in a dark room, and does disappear further away or if the environment is lit as Paul said.
If anyone is interested I took some pictures with different lenses.

3E
3e-1.jpg


G2 with a fast exposure. Litte box artifact going on. (horizontal line is result of camera)
It was difficult to clearly capture it correctly.
g2-2.jpg


Acrylic (came with DTR copper modules with no lens option)
Its not on backwards and this is without the focus ring. They are almost too shot to be practical for these deeper modules.
Is this normal? (same result with 2 acrylic lenses) Maybe it needs a deeper/longer housing to fix this?
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