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FrozenGate by Avery

AA batteries and Aixis Driver?

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foppert

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Mar 12, 2011
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Ok i am new to the world of electronics but i am learning fast :undecided:

i would like to power my Aixis driver powering a LPC815 diode with 4 normal 1.5v AA batteries. This makes 6 volts correct? Will this over power anything or even work? Depending on the success of this build i might go with rechargeables later but for testing phase i would like to keep it simple.

Link to driver:
2pcs constant current laser diode driver 80-500mA w/TTL | eBay

Also i feel this is a really stupid (but hey gotta learn somehow) question but i read that this driver requires a low power diode across the + and the TTL. Would a regular LED work? Are those technically diodes? or should i just stick with the recomended "1N4xxx" diode?
 





A led would likely work, not having a diode handy I have had succes with simply stripping the + wire long enough to solder to +, then bend it around the print and solder to TTL too.

The only problem with the AAA is their current capacity/voltage drop, but the app. 300 mA for a LOC is fine.
 
I am y confused with just powering the thing. I understand that I can use 6 volts. But what difference would using 4 AA's vs 4 1.5 v button cells? It would actually be nice to run the thing off the smallest power source possible but my goal is 200mw... And I can't imagine button cells putting out enough power.

I got the driver and managed to get it to burn up with 4 AA's. Is there anything more I should know about batteries and drivers before I try hooking up power to the replacement?
 
The fan cooled 405nm in my signature is using a aixis driver with 3x16340 for 7.2V input.

What did you use for test load?
And how did you connect it?

There is a tread somewhere here on that specific driver, perhaps you should start by finding and reading it?
 
Nope no test load, which now that i think about it a pretty dumb mistake. Will set it up with a cheap laser diode next time im testing. Oh well at least its a $3.75 mistake.

Ive read the thread "how to make your Aixiz diver work. That is the only thread i could find on here about it.

So just as a final check. 4 AA batteries should work and not fry it assuming that everything is hooked up right this time.

What about the button cells?
 
foppert said:
Nope no test load, which now that i think about it a pretty dumb mistake. Will set it up with a cheap laser diode next time im testing. Oh well at least its a $3.75 mistake.
Click to expand...
A cheap laser diode may just burn off before you get the current adjusted.
A test load is more or less indispensable for adjusting/testing drivers, and getting hold of a few diodes and a resistor should be possible for most.

Ive read the thread "how to make your Aixiz diver work. That is the only thread i could find on here about it.
Click to expand...
That is the one. :)
So just as a final check. 4 AA batteries should work and not fry it assuming that everything is hooked up right this time.
Click to expand...
Yes. :)

What about the button cells?
Click to expand...
Doubtful, when connected in series they each have to deliver the app. 300mA for a LOC.
You can try and then measure the voltage over them to see what the voltage drop is. Batteries have what is called "internal resistance", for a AAA it is app. ½Ohm. That means a current of 1A will give a drop of ½V and only 1V left for whatever is drawing the 1A.

The internal resistance of a button cell is almost certainly higher, so you will have much less than 6V input on the driver.

Alkaline cells are also pretty vulnerable to high discharge, that is, their mAh capacity drops fast as a function of discharge rate.

So it may be possible, but you will need a big pile of spare cells. :D
 
Alright i got everything working but the max output i am seeing is 265ish mila amps. Does this seem right for 4 AA's. I was hoping for more.

For reference i am using a 1 ohm resistor and 4 diode testload.
 
Sounds strange, what is the voltage input to the driver at that load?
 
Also i have a diode connecting vcc to the mode terminal on the bottom... with the anode connected to vcc.
 
Try short the diode, I connected + straight to both +in and modulation.
 
Tried shorting it, no change. I did have an incident where the modulation terminal was soldered to the 102 resistor next to it. However i did my best to right the situation before applying power and now i can run a screw driver clearly between the two connections. Thats the only thing i can think of that went wrong with this thing. It is producing 3.5 volts and 260-265 miliamps.
 
I got my LPC815 diode and soldered wires too it using a 15w soldering iron. I didnt hold the iron for more than a second at a time against the pins. My solders seem good. I figured that the driver was underpowering so i would be safe trying the diode. I hooked it up and got nothing. The driver didnt get warm, the diode didnt get warm, no red light, no red led like effect nothing. I tried to test the volts and my meter said 5.65 v when the pins were put across the diode pins. I feel i didnt do anything wrong but i think i blew it again.
 
Yes, sounds like it. :(
It it is any comfort, the same happened to me last month with this driver and a LOC.
Mysterious, as the first driver is powering a 12X at 400mA with no trouble.
 
The driver still works on the testload, 3.5v and 260ish miliamps... i wish i could test the diode on something else...
 
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