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FrozenGate by Avery

a good way to mark WL's dragon cases

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Jul 5, 2007
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as many of us know, one of the few, good value, reliable and well built items Wicked Lasers sell is..... the dragon case. i love my dragon cases! there are 4 of them in my house, soon to be more, and it does help to mark them to tell what lasers are inside, whether it be a core or a nova lasers x series.

i thought i'd just share the way i personally do it, which i think looks pretty good - subtle and matching the case's overall metallic look - is with one of those silver ink marker thingys on the opposite end to the screw cap. nice shiny metallic looking writing :) so, do others mark their dragon cases, and how? :)
 





Good idea! I would try and mark mine but I only have one laser.....
Maybe use a dremel tool to make a mark into the cap?
 
pseudonomen137 said:
Laser engraving is the only way to go! :)
well yes but not all of us have scary steel wool obliterating 400mW IR lasers, pseudo :P silver ink works fine :)
 
paper183 said:
I don't think 400mW is enough to mark steel O_o
you should see the youtube vid. the steel wool was just suddenly catching alight and burning.... *hides from scary IR lasers*
 
Now that's impressive ! Still wondering if they could mark steel :o would definitely want to get one ;D and maybe make a diy engraving machine (coming to think about it, i could make a plastic engraving one) ::) But that'd be alot of work ;D
 
paper183 said:
Now that's impressive ! Still wondering if they could mark steel :o would definitely want to get one ;D and maybe make a diy engraving machine (coming to think about it, i could make a plastic engraving one) ::) But that'd be alot of work ;D

I thought about it and I have the whole thing in parts now that I decided not to go on with it any more... I realized that I would need a full metal casing and a CO2 laser with about 40-60 WATTS of power to get anything worth it. Yes, they're not that expensive, but the stability of the unit and the reliability tends to go down when you can buy a laser for about $500 or so, and a fully built unit for about $1500... just a thought. Also, hot filters (filters that block IR and pass visible light) are VERY hard to find in a large sheet so you can see inside. I contacted many companies and these things are very expensive and hard to come by. :( :-[

--DDL
 
Daedal said:
[quote author=paper183 link=1185038834/0#7 date=1185190463]Now that's impressive ! Still wondering if they could mark steel :o would definitely want to get one ;D and maybe make a diy engraving machine (coming to think about it, i could make a plastic engraving one) ::) But that'd be alot of work ;D

I thought about it and I have the whole thing in parts now that I decided not to go on with it any more... I realized that I would need a full metal casing and a CO2 laser with about 40-60 WATTS of power to get anything worth it. Yes, they're not that expensive, but the stability of the unit and the reliability tends to go down when you can buy a laser for about $500 or so, and a fully built unit for about $1500... just a thought. Also, hot filters (filters that block IR and pass visible light) are VERY hard to find in a large sheet so you can see inside. I contacted many companies and these things are very expensive and hard to come by. :( :-[
--DDL[/quote]

Good luck in your research for that hot filter, I wouldn't have the skills and tools to make and engraver anyway :P
 
nah, 400mW is far from enough to mark steel - steel wool is actually pretty dang flammable though. I once tried engraving on a CNI black/gold case with my 400mW IR and it worked because it was messing up the black paint/finish/whatever the heck it is. The lasers used to actually cut steel are hundreds of Watts, and to mark steel I'd imagine you still need a few tens of watts
 
Daedal - for a window into a CO2 engraving type system, plexiglass should suffice, unless I missed something.....I was under the impression that the 10600nm (I forget exactly, LOL) that the CO2 puts out can be blocked by normal plastic sheeting....so a regular plexiglass window would work in place of your hot window....
 
SenKat said:
Daedal - for a window into a CO2 engraving type system, plexiglass should suffice, unless I missed something.....I was under the impression that the 10600nm (I forget  exactly, LOL) that the CO2 puts out can be blocked by normal plastic sheeting....so a regular plexiglass window would work in place of your hot window....

Yep. Good thing about CO2 lasers - goggles are cheap!
 





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