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ArcticMyst Security by Avery

405nm PHR-805 build last ? before final assembly

Joined
Feb 23, 2009
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I am attempting not to LED any more diodes like I did in this thread: http://laserpointerforums.com/f38/phr-803t-new-build-not-lasing-71027.html

This diode is now the newer PHR-805. I also got a new MicroBoost drive just in case. I also built a bench driver based on the LM-317 regulator and I built a dummy load circuit.

After setting the bench driver to 55mA with the dummy load, I then soldered the driver leads to the isolated + and - pins on the LD. I applied power and nothing happened. I went researching and found that the cathode on the PHR-805 is the CASE PIN. I connected the bench driver - out to the case pin instead and the diode lased. Is this correct? Do I NOT connect the remaining isolated pin? What is that pin for? I guess the pinout diagram I have is not for the 805 but the 803, so maybe this is where I was led astray.

What do I need to be mindful of when I connect this diode to the Microboost driver? The instruction manual states that the battery - and diode cathode connections are not continuous and should be isolated. The problem is my flashlight casing IS continuous with the negative of the battery AND thus the CATHODE of the PHR-805 will also be connected to the case via the heatsink it sits in. Do I need to sleeve the heatsink so that it doesn't touch the flashlight casing or is there another way around this? I don't want to harm the driver or LED another diode.
 





Joined
Mar 22, 2011
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805's are case negative. They have the same pinout as an LPC.
The micro boost is not constant negative so you do need to insulate the heatsink.

All your questions are answerable via a simple search. Do some reading around next time.

Best of luck on the build,
Dave
 
Last edited:
Joined
Dec 11, 2011
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Just remember to short the outputs of the driver (with NO battery attached) before you connect it to the diode's leads to get rid of any residual or static charge.

Your diode is case negative so you're fine as long as you do what Fretwrecker said (electrically insulate your driver from the host).

Good luck on the build.
 




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