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1w 532 nm dpss - did I broke it?

celas

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Joined
Feb 13, 2015
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72
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UPDATE:

After receiving a lab power supply (3.5A max 15v) I've driven the ir diode at 5v 2.5A after some warming up after placing it in this empty laser stage lightning 250mW scaled DPSS host (with Nd:YVO crystal). The crystal has really good cooling (full contact with aluminum & brass), so I presume that if I add a peltier cell, it would be sufficiently cooled to work with 5W 808nm pump diode? Here is the photo of this host: View image: 10384276 784884001585707 7911136241808436495 n
But there is a problem - even with like ~4W pump power (I assume it has like 30-40% efficiency) there was still no green light. WHAT THE HELL IS GOING ON. Shortly after I launched diode with EVEN MORE current at free air (4.8v 3A) and burned a hole through my t-shirt in split second (by accident). And here comes the real disaster - the diode couldnt withstand multiple soldering/desoldering and its cathode wire broke and fell off (photo how it looks right now :View image: 10866217 784884131585694 1804990561625893834 o ). Is it fixable, or the diode is completely dead? I figured out that maybe the wavelenght of pump diode changed (it looks more richer red than on the beginning when it worked properly) from like 808 to 800 and it wont pump anything now - is this possible?Omg guys... Help me! I have to finish my RGB laser stage projector (2W blue module completed and working properly) and I have terrible problems with this bloody green module. I bought it extremely cheap and I can't get it to work... This is so damn frustrating.
 





celas

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Joined
Feb 13, 2015
Messages
72
Points
8
Fixed voltage/amperage lab power supply. This doesn't need a driver. Nothing bad happened to laser by that test
 

Aleksa

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Jan 21, 2014
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118
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Hmm. I might not understand you or you don't understand how laser diodes work(don't find this offensive). LD behaves like a zener diode. The difference is LDs are much more sensitive. Most IR diodes work on 2.2v. So if you give it 5 volt and there is no voltage drop due to no sinking resistor or transistor,its most likely dead. It probably worked for a couple of seconds before it died and melted it self.
 

celas

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Joined
Feb 13, 2015
Messages
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I can assure you it was STILL working properly. Up to the moment when I mechanicaly torn the + wire (brass tape). I dont know if it's fixable. During those tests (at rather high voltage) the whole module was cooled by huge radiator, fan, and a pentium III heatsink connected to it just in case
 

Aleksa

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Joined
Jan 21, 2014
Messages
118
Points
18
It can work that way,for a couple of seconds at most before the semiconductor melts. I have tested that my self. That's is not the way to drive diodes,so never do that again. It also depends on the power supply. If you have a cheap supply,expect a lot of problems that can kill your diode. The best way i find to test LDs goes like this(IMO).
Lets say that your diodes works at 2.2v 2A.
You set your power supply to 2.2v and set the current to 2A
Use a mosfet to regulater the current in series with the LD.
That way you can slowly increase the current while the voltage will rise too.
I have tested my diode like that,and she works on 50A 3V.
You don't want to hurry anywhere with these kinds of expensive/sensitive components.
Take it slow,do a lot of research before even thinking about playing.
Don't bother with fixing the old one,its dead for sure. Buy a new one(or used) and do a lot of research on how to power LDs. Don't rush things,that wont take you anywhere. Sorry if i sound dead serious,english is not my languge,so no offence,really. :)
 
Joined
Aug 14, 2013
Messages
2,655
Points
63
I can't see anything in that picture. It
just looks like a fuzz to me.

Weather or not its fixable all depends on
where the bond wire severed and how steady
your hands are. If the wire broke at or
near the die, then forget it. If it is
split in half or closer to the cathode tab,
then you might be able to VERY CAREFULLY
solder the bond wire. Don't use very much
flux. Make sure the tip is very clean and
tinned with fresh solder.

Now the reason there is no green is because
when you took it apart, you threw
everything completely out of alignment.
DPSS lasers are very alignment sensitive.
Running it full bore like that when its out
of alignment can also damage the crystals.
I suggest reading the appropriate section
of the laser FAQ.

Sam's Laser FAQ - Solid State Lasers

Hope this helps :beer:
 




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