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I second all of that^. This promotion is dumber than snake mittens. And your "right" as a mod is to ban anyone for any reason you see fit. After seeing the reasons you see fit, I'll pass. Your reference to them as "rights" rather than privileges or duties is strikingly ominous foreshadowing...

It's not about being cheap. There's just no need for the beam to be aligned precisely with the housing for most applications. You'll find the same 'problem' in a laserglow pointer.

50kV scope probe will either have very poor response, or be larger than scope itself. There's a high chance you either misread something, or do NOT have all the pieces.

They require a high voltage constant current source. The bespoke power supplies are cheaper, safer, smaller, and much easier to find than some obscure DIY solution.

The search term you want to use is DAC, or more specifically "laser DAC" or perhaps "ILDA DAC". Don't limit yourself to a particular brand. They're going to be several hundred dollars for one that isn't total shit. If that's too much, you chose the wrong hobby. Save up, or sell your gear...

Don't fucking lie to us. You've ignored all advice you were given, time and time again. Just leave.

I killed the driver in mine (too much voltage on the input in an unrelated experiment), so no more smart switch in my case. It is glued together, so it's gonna get a few scuffs on it when you disassemble it, but I have mine in pieces in a box. I've been saving it for the right diode. Probably...

No. Red light is sourced from an LED, and green is sourced from a phosphor wheel, driven by the blue array. Some projectors have a green array, but it isn't as common. Because the goggles protect the wearer, and the camera has an infrared filter.

One of these is the output terminal https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipNeQbET3Uur1dC4WdrKVQjPOEOpwzk7ZE4ZnFLIweqf87ljI2Sw2hslXgyvuHRvCg/photo/AF1QipOZEmecf0eLFbr8r4YdACwObzOhYMCikH4MfasJ?key=ejFMRWV4WlVOQW1VSXZ1ZFFYdGhMM3FadUtDY1BR Measure the voltage on it. I don't know how to be more...

I asked for load voltage and you gave me load current. What is the load VOLTAGE? Techhood is wrong about the power supply, and that's a worrying sign of their support personnel.

All else equal, beam divergence is inversely proportional to beam diameter. Once you understand that, everything else is predictable. What's really going to bake your noodle is finding out the raw diode output without a collimating lens is yet again flipped in this regard..

This is with three diodes and a 1ohm as a shunt as your test load, yes? Measure your input voltage and output voltage (not just the shunt) while the circuit is in operation. If these values remain at 12V and <5V respectively and aren't changing as you increase the potentiometer to its max...

For troubleshooting purposes, ditch your PWM controller. Use a voltage divider to supply 5V (or use an aux 5V supply) on the TTL pins instead. Also try shorting the TTL pins together - some drivers use an inverted signal here. A picture of said setup may also prove useful.

The URL works for me, although not elucidating. This sounds like a classic case of low input voltage. Is your power supply 12V and capable of over 1A? Verify this voltage under load. Also, drop a diode from your test load. 3 is plenty.

Why, OP? We can help you a lot better if you actually tell us what you're trying to do rather than toss out vague specifications.

I disagree. You're fine. There are always going to be people that insist you get every scrape and splinter and burn examined in the emergency room JUST IN CASE. If you're the type of person to do that, no one's stopping you.

You have a lot to learn about alkaline cells. You'll find the voltage drops substantially under load.

3.6V isn't enough for the driver to stay in regulation. Check the voltage across your set-resistor and you'll see it's under 1.25V. wtf is 650mW in the title?

Just... throw it away, pal. It barely qualified as a toy when it was assembled. Now it's a pile of scrap.

You pulled this out of a 41¢ keychain, didn't you?