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And now for the final results. After resoldering the negative contact, it still would not power on. I wasn't able to read any activity from the driver board at all, so I unsoldered the diode and hooked it up to a different power supply. Low and behold, the diode still lives! I feel like...

VICTORY! So I decided to spray a tiny bit of gun cleaner around the inside edges of the heat sink to loosen up the glue. I used a set of long, sharp point tweezers to jab the cleaner as deep into the glue as I could, plugged up the end to keep it from evaporating, and let it sit for two hours...

There is a rubber bushing around the negative contact, but it sits at a 45 degree angle, so it really only covered about 1/2 the open area. I have since moved it farther to get a better look at the inside. I have a new one on the way already, and they let me keep the defective unit as well...

To me, it feels worse in my hand with all the tubes removed. The longer part of the host isn't long enough to grip it comfortably. Plus there are lots of semi-sharp edges exposed where they didn't deburr the machined holes.

Thanks for the replies. Yea, getting the 12 tubes removed was the easy part (2mm hex head). From what I'm seeing, the newer host is all one piece. I saw pics of the older host, and it definitely separates in 2 pieces. If it did come apart that way, I might be able to access the guts of the...

I have a 1.2 - 1.4 watt blue laser in a gatling housing. When I received it, the negative terminal spring was bent, and after swapping batteries a few times, it bent to the point where it is resting on the inside wall of the host (pic #4). I emailed pics of the problem to the seller and voiced...