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wow good job. very interesting project. could you use a temperature sensor chip which already has amplification built in? like the lm 335. or a i2c sensor, have a picaxe or something to calculate the power based on calibration and ambient temperature and you said most of the heat is radiated...

the difference is that the driver without the amp is adjustable by a low value sense resistor which carries the diode current. the driver with the high side current amplifier is adjustable by low current, higher value resistors, so you can use a smd pot with it. also the un amped version has...

dvd players/burners are a great source of tiny 4-10uF capacitors. i took some time to salvage and measure some caps from a pioneer 215 (the SATA version of the 115D) for people who don't have a capacitor tester. most of the caps are in the same spots for the 115D as well. these caps are useful...

they may be blue, but 'blueray' is the disk format the playstation 3 uses. HD-DVD is the format the xbox drive could read (for playback of hd-dvd movies) so the xbox 360 hd-dvd drive diodes are not blueray. however they have a blue ray ;) so yeah when you said blueray, i assumed you where...

blueray DOES have a grounded case. the xbox 360 hd-dvd drive diodes are the ones that don't.

trial and error! just make sure your toner is well stuck before you etch. and if you use a marker to touch up your board, it might be worth doing a test board to find the best type of marker. some don't stick very well in the etchant. I never got around to making those high side amp boards...

you could store it in a plastic drum or something, then when its full, take it to a chemical disposal place. or you could use just a peroxide mix, which should be safe to pour in the garden. (not sure about that though)

i will update the first image too

Re: GB PHR-803T SLEDS *All Gone* Rep if you LOVED mine arrived in Australia. Thanks although $3 postage ::) you probably should have used a small box instead of an envelope, one of the boxes got a bit squashed in transit. but its ok

ok, so when the pulse is low, the led turns on. thats what i was asking. cool that circuit i made should work

indeed, but you need feedback for proper current control.

so when you say common anode you imply that the led's are connected to +3.5V and the flashing circuit connects the led's to ground to light them up? that is what i designed that circuit for, so your flashing circuit can drive it. basically is this how it works. (imagine the switch is your chip)

so with your crazy flashing board, its active low right? so it connects the led to ground to turn it on? thats what that circuit is made for and fet's look like power transistors. go to your electronic shop and ask for a n channel power fet. it should look like this you should be able to...

you could also program a microcontroller to pulse a transistor on and off to get an average current, then smooth it out with an inductor and capacitor. in effect it would be a 'buck' smps but it would take a lot of programming experience to get it to work.

try this oh and make that 100R resistor a 1K

Re: GB PHR-803T SLEDS *All Gone* Rep if you LOVED did they think it was packed with drugs or something ::)

maybe the optoisolators are the problem. why have them anyway. i think you should go back to the original idea. but just have a FET (and transistor to drive it from the flashing circuit) then have a lm317 circuit for current limiting. keep it simple! a low pass filter shouldn't be necessary...

that looks like an interference pattern. probably due to a reflection off something, like the can.

Re: GB PHR-803T SLEDS *All Gone* Rep if you LOVED wow is this the fastest GB ever?

so what exactly do you want to keep from this pointer? the body? what type of batteries does it take? if it takes button cells, they won't last very long driving a burner. if they work at all... that circuit will be useless running a burner, but it looks pretty good quality for a <5mw red...