Search results

Mike, I agree. It took me about 10 seconds to find info on this.

If it's a 16x, it's likely in the same range of Senkat's Group Buy laser diodes. There's a safe current recommended by the manufacturer (probably ~ 80-130mA DC) and a current that most folks on the board run them at (~ 150-300mA). There's a risk of burning it out by running it at the higher...

I believe any improvement would likely be negligible and the risk high so I would steer away from that one.

Your wife (parents for the younger folks) most likely does not resent the laser as much as the *addiction* and lack of attention to her needs. You could replace lasers with other types of addictions/hobbies (flashlights/cars/gaming/....) and likely get the same results. In my experience, wives'...

Re: All owners of a laser-man red pointer look her Thanks andy, I just ordered 5. :)

The MC33269 is a low drop-out regulator - in voltage mode. There are ones with a lower drop-out but they don't work in 3 terminal mode. In current mode, the circuit must be changed and it has a higher drop-out, but lower than the 317 series. BF, have you asked yourself why this keeps occuring?

Sorry, I meant that's the 400mA configuration (4x parallel 12R4 resistors). Cheers, Paul

Saw this link on another forum (I even kept the same title). This should be a sticky and manditory watching before allowing anyone to post. Enjoy... http://www.funnieststuff.net/viewmovie.php?ad_key=AVBITMWPQACE&tracking_id=919429&id=722

Good stuff!  That's based on the same chip I used for a few of my mods (just a different case style).  I see you have the 400mA version there. http://www.laserpointerforums.com/forums/YaBB.pl?num=1188569731

Try checking the post above yours for that information.

I do not think that any sweeping statements can be made regarding which DX units have or don't have IR filters. DX seems to ship manyy variants of both true and non-true lasers. Some have filters and some don't. Unless you have access to all "True" and "Non-True" units that DX has shipped, you...

That's certainly a possibility.  If you go back to DX, pick up the model that has a few 7135s per board.  This is a pic of mine - note the poor quality on the one on the top left.  The solder paste has not re-flowed and the components are not properly placed.

Try soldering the negative of the batteries to the spot I indicated in Reply #26 above.

Re: 5 ohm What happened to the beginning of this thread?

Have you checked the traces for continuity?  Remove a battery and use the continuity mode on your DMM (or low ohms resistance scale) to verify that the in/out pads are connected to the components they are supposed to be. If all is good, connect it up again and measure voltages at the key...

The tab is the wider piece of metal at the top.  It is electrically connected to the center pin.

That should mean the MELF diode is OK.  You have a strange problem.  Everything is wired correctly. Check to make sure the bare wire circled in red does not short to the outer ring. I have had some of these boards come that had not been properly reflowed. Try re-melting the solder on the pin...

Can you measure the voltage between the batt neg and the right pin on the IC?

Ok so far. Can you post a pic that shows the rest of the wiring?

If you take a minute and trace the circuit you will see that the pads I indicated are electrically equivalent to the CLEARLY DIFFERENT board that you have in the second pic. My pic is correct. I have the same type boards and they work fine for me.  Do you have another board you can try? Can...