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I cannot answer your question about specific solvents, but I can share my experience. I have used both methanol and ethanol. The ethanol seems to have some advantages. Methanol is a more aggressive solvent so it tends to eat away at epoxy joints, tubing, and o-rings. Ethanol seems more reliable...

Still fine tuning, and will also try coumarin 450. Then I promise lots of pics. I have a theory that reducing the dye concentration will reduce divergence. I will also try some collimating optics. I do not remember if I had the dye shipped to my home or business. It came from Exciton. Also...

Just a small update...

I have dealt with them a few times over the years. I have no complaints. They do have restrictions on what they will ship depending on where you live.

I have constructed several versions of the N2 laser over the years, based largely on the "Scientific American" design. Of all the gas laseers I have home built, I can say that the N2 is by far the simplest and most forgiving. Further, it is also the simplest pump for dye laser experiments.

6G, AKA rhodamine 590 chloride, has an orange-ish appearance when dissolved. Look at the website for Exciton https://exciton.luxottica.com/ to find a great deal of info on dyes, concentrations, and absorption spectrum. They also have techs who will speak with you. I can not speak to 405 pump...

Plug and play is pretty much correct. A simple pot or PWM can be added to control power. Also, a Ma meter is a nice feature. I highly recommend Cloudray Laser... assuming they are open for business during covid. https://www.cloudraylaser.com/

About 7 Watts. I read somewhere up to 10 Watts pulsed.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/15W-CNC-Laser-Printer-Engraver-Metal-Marking-Machine-Wood-Cutter-100x100cm-DIY/254566182708?hash=item3b4553af34:g:ClcAAOSwEg9ekT~o...

High power laser pointers are not scientific instruments. The are hobby/novelty devices. Accidents can and do happen. Everyone at LPF preaches safety because enough accidents would lead to more regulations and stricter enforcement.

Sounds like a button top (or lack there of) battery issue. Like Snecho said, need more info.

It may take a few seconds to stabilize. Heater needs CV control, not current control. Try adjusting heater voltage 0.1V at a time.

Just a thought... keep the sound effects.

Check all polarities. Maybe reading diode leakage (backwards).

I looked around a bit, but all I could find was AC in that volt and current.

I did talk to North Country all those years ago. After Mr. Prescott passed away, his family was was selling off any remaining parts and shutting down. When I had my lamp and dye cell made, I had spares made. I might be willing to part with a set if you like the specs I have. As for mirrors, I...

Seems to me that a variac and rectifier will get you part way there. As far as current control, IDK. Best to wait for one the EEs from the forum to chime in.

North Country has been gone for around 20 years. The quartz parts can be made by TGP in Ohio. https://technicalglass.com/about/ Windows and mirrors are available from Edmund Optics or Thor Labs. https://www.thorlabs.com/navigation.cfm?guide_id=2264 It is important to note that the tubing parts...

AC? DC? Current control? Voltage control?

Edmund Optics has several articles and webinars on the topic. https://www.edmundoptics.com/knowledge-center/#!&Criteria=ldt