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I forgot to include a milled out spot for a 9-in-1 multimeter. It’s going to be extremely important to monitor the power supply and consumption.. we could remove the plastic frame and mount it within the heatsink, the screen alone is only 20mmX38mm, the rectangle hole could have a small lip to...

I know they’re horrible drawings but I did them in like 5-10minutes and atleast it’ll give you the idea.. If we use a Maglite host, we can run 4S 32700 Lifepo’s and have a much more steady voltage drop with discharge/time.. and still have the 12.8v supply.. but those 32700s will give us all...

and then we take advantage of the NC tabs on the NUBBs and somehow add on an ACC feature.. then we have a beast of a product… I should’ve just sent this info via DM cuz now I gave away all my secrets and ideas lol

and then we take advantage of the NC tabs on the NUBBs and somehow add on an ACC feature.. then we have a beast of a product… I should’ve just sent this info via DM cuz now I gave away all my secrets and ideas lol

Also, 7-10A CDR batteries would be waaaaay to small in terms of current discharge if you’re wanting to add TEC plates and fans for cooling.. we need to be running 21700 and up, maybe the new Molicel P30 18650 would be enough, but at the 65mm height, we may as well run the 26650s, adding some...

A little opinion on the heatsink details, you could utilize those extra holes on the diode array heatsink to run the lead wires thru, making it much cleaner and much easier to design a aluminum cap to screw on top of it that would allow the beam expander to thread onto. We would just need to...

One more thing I haven’t seen anyone discuss yet, the NUBB2* diode array line has NC +/- connection tabs- this is for temperature monitoring and ACC? Right? If so, that would be a great feature to utilize.. I already have a stripped temp probe I was going to solder on to test this feature...

I have a kinda botched NUBB23 If you want me to send it to you for you to play with, remove the diode array and make a new heatsink mount for it? Also, if you have the NUBB28 diode circuit already separated, then boosting from 16.8v to 20v wouldn’t be too hard on the driver.. I know bucking is...

I’m curious to see how you split the NUBB28? I feel like it would be best to just make a new heatsink for it and just remove the diode arrays, then we could mount them closer together and make a much better heatsink setup, allowing the lens array to be attached much cleaner

Here’s the Convoy L6 and L7, it’s a clean A** looking host and allows for some nice big batteries.. There’s also some videos on YouTube I found, showing how to change a boost style driver to a buck/boost driver, which would be perfect for using 4-26350s in series to power the NUBB23. The...

honestly, I’ve got the cooling issues worked out for sure. We just need to work out the driver and power supply details. I really think the convoy L6 or L7 is the perfect host, it would allow a larger heatsink, plenty of room to mount the driver within it, and plenty of options for power supply...

using those tiny batteries wouldn’t be ideal, the small mAh rating would be drain extremely fast, and the output would drop off fast.. they really need a lot of capacity, I would say it’s more important than having higher voltage.. I’ve seen this issue with my dual fan 8w M21A laser.. I run...

Or. Another idea, is to remove the diode arrays from the NUBB28, and use them individually on a NUBB23 board, or just make a custom heatsink mount for it. That way we can have that extra diode, which would push it to over 40-45W output, and my idea for using a beam expander would be very simple...

lets collab bro, I think using the convoy L6 or L7 would be a great option. I have a driver already set for it, which would be installed within the heatsink. Also, I’ve already figured out a way to use a beam expander for the NUBB23, running it at 4-5A, it would be a beast and having adjustable...

I’ve gotten 2 recapped NUGMO6 diodes, again 1 was awesome and put out 2.2-2.3W with a G2 lens.. the other one, using the same driver,/lens wouldn’t get past 1.6W..

Exactly what I’m saying, they are scammers man.. they are absolutely modifying these data sheets, most likely they are just selling recapped NUG diodes

OpticsLD is a joke!! I’ve purchased quite a few diodes from them and I’ve gotten some faulty diodes along with diodes that weren’t what the listing said they were.. I wouldn’t get stuff from him unless you want to take that risk.. unfortunately he seems to be one of the only sellers that are...

The FAC lens is useless IMO, I’ve got a few Red diodes with them and once you throw a lens in, the effect is gone. Atleast in my experience

For me or him? Either way I wanted to collab with him to make some new products.. I’ve got a lot of ideas and I’ve been testing a lot of stuff with NUBB23/24 diode arrays.. I just need someone that can turn some custom heatsinks!!

I don’t think a breadboard would really help me at all, considering I have to solder the resistor before the negative lead on the driver… it would probably create a lot more work, if it would even be plausible