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Tested 3 of these for capacity at 400mA discharge rate. They averaged 267mAH. Not bad for a battery this size for $1! :D

Green lasers can be very sensitive to physical shock, especially these cheap ones. I had one that eventually quit producing green at all, but still had the faint red glow of 808nM IR - 3 AAA may not really be the best solution here, either, as it sounds like the laser has other problems, like...

Yes to everything you said. 8-) My guess for the op-amp is a TI TLC2272 Rail-rail - Just now received some in the mail from Digikey. I have 2 bad Dilda boards, and one of them definitely has a bad Op-amp as well as both have blown PNP transistors. The test will be to see if I can repair these...

Just a thought - If you are not connecting the case of the diode to the circuit (electrically "floating") - you are asking for trouble with ESD for sure... ;)

You could try this.... http://www.laserpointerforums.com/forums/YaBB.pl?num=1229067402

Nice work Benm ! :D C5 on the new board has a 1M resistor under it. I think their big mistake was leaving this resistor out on the early models - because it is a necessary DC feedback path (Rf) for the op-amp! ::)

I think you're right, Jerry, this will cook the driver board, and possibly overvoltage the 6V tantalum at the same time - but if the linear driver board were replaced by a Boost converter, it would give longer run times and less heat. ;)

Yea, you can tell right away, because only the newest ones seem to have the component numbers silkscreened on the board. What, crushed pot? You need rolling papers! ;D

God, you guys are funny sometimes! ;D ;D ;D I need to put the arms back on my chair to keep from falling off! ::)

Re: O-like Nichia100-120mW CW rate 405nm laser dio Wow, this sounds interesting! :o I wish I knew how Igor's tests were going. Anyone know anything about the Nichia life test he was doing?

If your circuit configuration will allow, connect the case center-pin to one side of the diode. I always connect cathode to case, and solder a .1uF or larger across the diode pins, and have never lost one to ESD. ;)

Hey, Mohrenberg, Nice Find! 8-) I'm getting some of these too, will test the capacity and see how they compare..

Yes. Sorry it's a bit hard to see the brackets because of having to convert DXF from Orcad to a picture format On the newer models, R27 is underneath C5. If R27 is not there, I think it means you have the older version. The other differences seem to just be resistor value changes. oops...

Hey, Thanks for the comments! :D I hope this is useful to somebody. I was surprised that it seems to be built entirely around "discrete" components - must be cheaper for them or something.. :-? Kurt

I got bored the other day and decided to try reverse-engineering the Dilda. The following PCB picts and the schematic are of the newer ones like those sold by O-like.com. Here are the PCB picts with epoxy removed: As near as I can determine, this is the schematic: I have included...

There IS another way to tune up the Dilda and get it to regulate, without buying any special batteries or replacing the driver PCB. The large 6.2 ohm resistor marked "6R2" is a voltage dropping resistor used to share the power dissipation with the regulator IC/pass device. Unfortunately, it's...

Got mine on Feb 1st. Thanks. Can't wait to try it! 8-)

What a terrific plaything for the laser hobbyist ;) :D ;D [smiley=evil.gif] http://blog.wired.com/cars/2009/02/lightlanes-lase.html

Does this mean you could heal an infected wound by shining your bluray on it - Hmm? :o http://abmed.wordpress.com/2009/01/30/antibiotic-resistant-staph-infection-destroyed-by-blue-light/

If you consider that 405nM is right at the borderline of visibility to the human eye, just a small variation in wavelength makes a big difference in visibility, so while it may seem ridiculous, it really isn't ;)