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I've run my 150mW for up to 5 minutes, with the host barely getting over body temperature... Once.

Agreed, I've only had good experiences with rayfoss.

Ok, it's closer to 7mm, and to be honest, I think that 2.5cm^2 of solid metal to metal contact (and believe me, when I did once manage to get the module out, the sides were gouged out, it really is a tight fit) is plenty for even a 200mW module (3W of heat max).

Not necessarily, if you've ever opened up a module like that, the diode and crystals are all very close to the back, the rest is just open space after the beam expander to the main objective lens.

It would be nice, considering the decent waterproofing; but there just isn't a way to simply mount a diode module. The actual press fit sleeve is too far down for just the diode pocket, and I doubt heatsinking would be good if it was mounted by the end of the long back cap.

The sleeve for the press fit itself is only about 5mm high, the rest is about 14mm diameter. It's very hard to get it to line up inside that widened sleeve. And yeah, the fact that modules don't project straight doesn't help.

Not necessarily, the biggest reason that lasers collimate so well with optics is because laser light is monochromatic, all the light refracts through optics to a constant and predictable degree. With a mix of wavelengths, you get something called chromatic aberration.

Invisible lasers in an accessible price range. Now on the high energy side of the spectrum, wouldn't that be just great... :undecided:

That's the only way to get in it. You take off the front that covers the lens, then take off the tail cap, and use a vice to press against the flat surfaces of the front of the module and the back of the battery tube. Still doesn't go in straight though. -_-

I've made about 5 of these myself (sold a couple) Getting the beam to exit all out the hole isn't too hard, but getting it to exit straight is damn near impossible. Nice host though, watch the piece of glass at the front; the AR coating is damaged with isopropyl alcohol.

Plenty of people with lathes around that could do it. You could anodise it yourself, lots of guides around, including a nice one over on PL.

A single CR123a/RCR123/16340. Depends on the module you install as to what battery voltage.

I think the only possible gains here are higher perceived brightness for a certain power consumption. We're running our diodes hard enough already. And they're already very bright. I just don't see a market.

Ignoring DPSS completely here, that's another challenge all together. A major problem is that with say our LOC diodes, we're already running them CW at above the manufacturer's pulse rating. I don't think they'd stand up too well to 5x their rating....

Chiming in a little late here: Perceived brightness would definitely be higher per unit of power in a pulsed laser. It's a very common practise in the LED back lights in LCDs in low power scenarios. You pulse the LED at 5 times the current rating, but only in a 20% duty cycle, and the perceived...

So it's a source of replacement buttons? What lasers do you have that use the rubber type?

I found it funny that the safety glasses they were wearing in the pictures wouldn't protect against red light at all.

Are you able to clarify what you mean my "mirage" Still confusing me when you say that. There are reflective diffraction gratings, you point a laser at a tile like object, and the reflected beam is diffracted into an array.

You mean like these? http://laserpointerforums.com/f64/fs-hexagon-heatsinks-your-projects-22648.html

I would highly recommend not measuring resistance with the pot already in circuit. Unless you have a special low voltage ohms measurement on your meter, current through the chip itself is severely skewing your reading. If you have a test load and a DMM, then just adjust the pot until the...