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And which one seems 'cooler' to you?

Yep! I wasn't expecting *too* much off for that price, but a 2" one would be enough for, say, some plastic-/rubber-tipped vice grip pliers, which might ultimately allow for more control. Alrighty, I'll let you know on Wednesday what I'm in for (might not want one of your brass puller-thingies...

So, 250mA is generally, probably, safe for an SF-AW210, and I *might* even get up to 300mW out of it. Am I correctly reading your graph, or did I miss something?

Ah, yes, I see it now. $3 seems a little steap, but it does already have the spring on there...*Will have to think this over, and probably go to RadioShack before too long...* I don't suppose you'd be willing to make your brass module-get-er-out-er about 2 inches and cost less...?

I just re-read the post, but didn't find any mention of an additional cost in for the circuit with the spring and button, is there?

Oh, right! I was thinking 2.5-5.5 Awesome, I'll be buying one of these soon, as I'm going to a focus group soon and getting $75 for it! :D Do you have the black ones on hand? And hose circuit boards, with a spring and a button already in place?

So, are there any lithium batteries available longer than 10440s, like a 10650 or something? I'd like to do a pen host like this, but I don't want to use alkalines, and two Ni-MH AAA won't do the trick, and one 10440 means I need a full AAA spacer (which I imagine are reasonably easy to find...

Does anyone know where I can get something like this: DealExtreme: $16.22 Stainless Steel Mini 5mW Green Laser Pointer Keychain (AG13 Powered)

Methinks I'll just get one of these: Pandawill.com : Others : 2 in1 Green Laser Pointer & Kaleidoscopic morphing Effects Pen 5mW :

I'd guess both, BKarim. Lower quality and more competitive, but I don't know.

Ouch, yes, they are expensive...

If you missed it from the title, I'm looking for a super small green module. One approximately the size you see in the photo. Sitting on top of the thing you see (it was a collimating lens with a red diode. It can be longer, but not larger than the largest diameter part of it. It's a broken...

*Wipes hands, at a job well done*

No, let's use math: rckstr test load set for blue = 6 diodes. 1 diode = -0.6V(give or take). 1 CR2 = 3V. 6 * -.6V = -3.6V. So, you can't get an accurate reading because you don't have enough voltage to overcome the voltage requirements of the diodes. Get a second CR2 and try it then...

Just one CR2? That won't be enough voltage to lase a blue diode. You'd have to use 2 CR2s.

jayrob used the same battery and had an LPC directly connected and said it drew like 700mA or so. So, he just used a 2ohm resistor and said he had about 370mA. I'm using about 3 ohms, and I think I'm getting more than he was, but I'm unsure. I'd like to know what the internal resistance is...

Near as I can tell, you're not wrong anywhere, you're just telling me things I've known for a while. And it can matter how long, because PHR at 100mA will last noticeably longer than a PHR at 150mA, although I've obtained reasonable life from 150mA on my PHR diodes. It only doesn't matter how...

What makes it good? o_O

So far the diode is fine. It was only directly connected to the battery (and on) for a total of like 15-20 seconds, and no more than 3 seconds at a time. Also, it's not just the internal resistance of the batteries, it's the LD's internal resistance too. If it was only the battery's...

So here's what I did: I consulted an old, retired electrical engineer, and he suggested I just use resistors and a capacitor, skipping the silicon diodes. I'm now using a 10uf (no micro sign on iPod touch keyboard) tantalum capacitor, and from my rckstr kit: 3x 12R5, 1x 20R5, 1x 33R5. With...