Very cool. I knew I couldn't have been the first to know about these. I'm surprised that there aren't more applications for this diode.
Apparently it's not too difficult to drive these. Charge a capacitor and use a MOSFET to connect the capacitor to the laser diode.
This module has the...
Yes, you read that correctly. 90 watts.
Get it tomorrow for $23:
It seems that these diodes are used for lidar and rangefinding. Any ideas what else they could be used for? Any crystals that can be pumped with this?
It's crazy how you can tell the color difference between them. Were they all a different color, or just a few outliers? I'm interested because even though we have wavelength measurements, I haven't heard of another diode out there where the wavelength variations are visually perceptable.
Re: Osram PLT5 488NM Laser Pointer For Sale
Are you offering a warranty on this? De-canned diodes are notorious for conking out as the slightest bit of dust on the die can break the laser diode. This is a tempting deal, but I am wary of purchasing something that can break so easily.
So I have been trying to convince myself that making a diode-pumped dye laser is possible using a small dye cell without circulation. With a big enough dye cell, there should be enough liquid to maintain lasing for a decent amount of time.
If the dye degrades after 1000 pulses, and there are...
I seem to have missed that post, but I see it now.
To modulate the output current, you can inject a current to the FB node. The idea is that whatever current you put into the FB node, the current sense amplifier will put out the opposite to maintain regulation. The ZXCT1010 puts...
I think there's a few problems with your schematic. TSC101 is a high-side current sense amplifier, and the output is not connected to anything. Also, the FB node has a DC value of 0V, which doesn't make sense.
What bandwidth do you require for your analog modulation? Since the voltage...
Awesome, thanks! The article is just as helpful as I remembered!
Oh, of course you'll have to heatsink the electronics. What kind of dye circulation system do you have, or are you building it from scratch?
I don't think this is necessary as long as you are circulating the dye and stay under 10W. Just as a point of reference, lots of electronic components dissipate a few watts without a problem, and that's without active cooling. I would start off without active cooling, and if heat is a problem...