o-like driver~open can Guide

This is my first guide if you want to call it that. i just wanted to share my experience with the o-like module

pics of driver:




Driver is based on the LM358N 8pin chip " thanks diachi for pointing that out"

a pdf file can be found http://www.fairchildsemi.com/ds/LM/LM258.pdf

i would suggest not to exceed 5.5v input as i pushed it up to 7v and fried a lead on the board "but it was repairable "

my intended use was for the lpc-815 open can diode but was unable to exceed the factory settings of ~250ma.

measured with dummyload at hi ttl


There are two states of power low and hi. Driver will remain at low until trigger by ttl input " i use 5v+ " you can defeat this by simply drilling a small hole through and filling with solder. or possibly soldering low resistor to high resistor OOPS. not sure how safe that is. you could also make a wire trace or solder trace but this will complicate install in aixiz module it that is your intent.

the mod:

i did tests by piggyback additional 10ohm resistors until i reached an acceptable current range. each additional resistor drops the resistance thereby increasing the current. Pictured is the original surface mount 10 ohms + 3 additional 10 ohms should be about 2.5R but with the varied tolerance measured 2 ohms.

below is the testing hi ttl output with the piggyback resistors


and here is the testing of the unchanged low ttl but may be modified to ~40ma to possibly improve blanking if needed. not sure yet.
l

I wanted to put this in the aixiz module but not with this mountain of resistors that might fall off or short out.

since i already had a spare driver with bad lead i removed a 1.5 ohm resistor marked (1R5) from the top backside and replaced the high current limiting resistor




i then made my final adjustments again with the new resistor in place


and spent the next 2 hours fixing everything i broke trying to get it to fit in the aixiz module LOL:thinking:

my final solution was drill out the rear end with a 3/8" bit and patiently screw it on being careful not to break the leads on the can as i soldered it directly to the pcb.

anyhow here is the fully loaded 400ma aixiz module with ttl just begging to be mounted in my tec cooler "almost done with that !!"



be sure you don't run it very long as it will get warm very fast w/o a heatsink

GOOD LUCK!!!!

what a horrible horrible driver. I bought 20 of these things and hate them.

I'll sell them for $3 each shipped if anyone wants to deal with all the stuff b52productions had to do just to get this driver to do anything useful.

thanks,
Kendall

This driver could be easily modified by running a switch from the low resister to another resistor in the same piggyback fashion as i did for tests.. this would allow a temporary lasing threshold for laser mirror alignment.

Once alignment is complete return the switch for normal operation. Use of a fixed resistor is recommended and maybe a spring loaded switch to prevent accidentally leaving in setup mode which could introduce more unwanted current during operation.

I have stated a new post with a similar proposed modification to the flexmod2 driver.

http://laserpointerforums.com/laser_pointer_forums_3/forum/showthread.php?p=535740#post535740

b52productions said:

my intended use was for the lpc-815 open can diode but was unable to exceed the factory settings of ~250ma.

Click to expand...

I have the exact same problem with my drivers. Anyone used these drivers with success? I wonder why the potentiometer doesn't do anything.

My setup is: battery+ to driver input+, driver output+ to diode input+, and diode input-/case to battery-. Anything obviously wrong with this setup?

just follow the directions posted in my guide.. http://laserpointerforums.com/f51/o-like-driver-open-can-guide-41054.html

but i have eventually went with a diffrent driver to make things easier for future use.

good luck. i think the lack of a soft start on this driver causes majority of diode failures.

peace

HEllo,
I have the same driver,
and it seems to work, up to 300ma, with a red LOC.
My problem is this. I am trying to set it up for use with my cnc machine,
and I was wondering, shouldn't the laser be blanked if the ttl+ and ttl- leads touch?

The ttl driver I built from PQ05rf21 integrated circuit behaves just like that and also another ttl driver, but this one does not seem to work that way.
Is there a mod I have to make to make it blank when the leads touch?
Basically when the parallel port sends out a ttl signal above 2,7v it should turn on the laser and when it falls below 0,8 it should blank it.

From your post, I was unable to extrapolate how to connect this when using a case-negative diode and host. Could you post a small diagram showing how to do this?

honestly i can say this is no way near the best driver out there. i killed a handfull tryn to get a second one made so i guess i was lucky with the first one. if your looking to build a handheld look for a different driver.

I'm looking for a cheap option. If there's a way to do it, and I know what it is, I'm confident in my skills. And at 2/$5, I'd have to buy 8 before I'm even at the cost of a FlexDrive (including shipping for both).

BTW yes, it'll be a handheld, but I know where I can get small, surface-mount resistors, and I can either replace the 10ohm with a 2ohm, or just stack some 10ohm resistors right on top.