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the perils of a tiny keypad...

The diode is attached directly to the driver pcb so no leads and hopefully no ringing... your experience with the 1W casio is interesting. i'll try (destroy) a few different diodes next week....

Already have the driver specced - PCO7114-50-4 from directed energy.

Can definitely keep them cooled considering we are in the heat sink of the ocean :-) Is heat really going to be a problem on such a low duty cycle? I have zero experience with high power diodes...(the current laser is a class 4 though and I’ve managed not to blind myself or my dog yet!) is it...

Oops cross-posted. It sounds like I just need to bite the bullet and break a few diodes in the name of research...

IR sadly no use unless you know of a magical doubling crystal :-) Would it be reasonable to try and push a nub to 15W then? Do you think I could get much more if I was ok with a MTTF measured in the 100s of hours? Never satisfied!

Well the datasheet says "Efficient radiation source for cw and pulsed operation" so its clearly ok for pulsed operation :) The laser is for a portable underwater lidar system. Hence the desired short pulses. The low duty cycle is due to that being the maximum duty cycle that the driver can...

Sure, thanks. That's understood but, for example, the datasheet for a PLT5 450B https://media.osram.info/media/resource/hires/osram-dam-2495842/PLT5+450B.pdf doesn't appear to have any information that tells me how big a 5ns pulse with a 0.1% duty cycle the diode could be expected to cope with...

I have a driver that can output 50A 5ns 20kHz pulses and want to use it to power a blue diode. However, I have a few questions which are hopefully cheaper and faster to ask rather than determine experimentally! 1. Is there any danger of facet damage from these short pulses? 2. Can I...

Hello. I'm on a steep learning curve trying to replace a portable but expensive 532nm Nd-YAG with a blue PLD... Not a traditional laser pointer but this seems to be where all the wisdom is!

I've currently got everything in a single vacuum glass tube so a sonar unit would need to be attached to the front of the submersible and linked to the brain of the unit in the pressure housing. a sonar unit is also heavier, costs more and requires more signal processing than a relatively cheap...

Hi there. I'm toying with the idea of using a cheap blue/green diode to check my homemade submersible isn't heading towards anything that isn't water. Not a Lidar system, just measuring the reflected light. My back-of-envelope calculations suggest a 1-2W laser will give me a detectable...