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Laser Module Help.

Chuiy

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Hello guys, I have been reading as much as I can about lasers, but the more I read, the more I am confused. I understand the core components of a laser, but it's the nuances that get me. For example, I was told that Drivers were better at controlling constant current (CC) than regulators were, but regulators and drivers seem to be interchangeable words. As well, I found a module here: Industry 532nm Green Laser/Lazer 50mW Module Diode APC | eBay

If I buy that module, what else will I have to buy? A lense and a housing? I purchased a 50mW diode for $3 out of impulse, and I was curious to see how the diode it inherintly different from the module. The module seems to come with a driver, and obviously the module, and possibly a lens (I cannot tell.) however the diode is simply a diode. I could buy a driver for around $7, but I don't know where to buy a separate module to just house my driver and diode.

Sorry if I was jumping all over the place in this post, I have many questions and I was hoping a few knowledgable hobbyists could help a newbie out.

Thanks guys!
 
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If you buy that module, you will need two AAA or AA batteries to run it off of, and something to hold those. That board on the back of the module IS a driver, and greenies like that usually are left unfocused, there is a built-in lens set to infinity, which means it makes the beam as small as possible over an infinite distance. Once you get the batteries, you could literally throw them in a holder with two output lead wires and solder those to your module, and push the button for some photons. Very simple with that module. Hope I could help some. :beer:
 

Chuiy

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Ahhh thanks for the input! If I do purchase a housing for the laser, is there any specific size to make it fit the module? Or are they for the most part standardized.
 
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Most of the green moduels are 12mm wide, although I've seen some being declared as 13mm wide.

To hold your module in your host, you need a heatsink with 12mm hole bored through and set screw to secure your module in. You can view the thread I've got linked in my signature to see how heatsinks work.
 
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For the most part they are standardized, but you may never be sure. Usually the easiest thing to do with that module would be to buy a cheap $10 DX green laser, remove the original green module and replace it with that one. The other options include making your own host (I'm responsible for a few ghetto PVC hosts myself). If you don't mind it not being handheld, then you could just buy a hobby box and throw it in there with a battery holder. You could even do this:

 

Chuiy

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Haha I actually like the Altoids tin idea, and really anyone can make a switch for it, especially with that much room with the Altoids tin being a host.

As well, I have one last nuance I can't seem to grasp. How do I make sure the driver I get will work correctly with my LD? I understand I want to keep a constant current, but is there a specific measure of driver I would need? I saw I would need a 100 mA driver for a 100mW purple laser and was wondering how I would choose the power of the driver. I also know there are other types, like direct drivers, boost drivers, buck drivers and buck boost drivers. I see direct drivers are the most inexpensive, but the most inefficient. Will any direct driver work for any power of LD?

As well, thanks for the information about the heatsinks Eudaimonium :)
 

Chuiy

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The only reason I ask is because the laser diode I found (50mW, 980 nm, 5.66 mm) has a reverse voltage of 2V, and the driver I found works with an input of 5-10 volts and has a 20-500 mA output range (adjusted by the small pot on the driver, obviously).

Basically, how can I tell if my driver is compatable with my diode?

Thanks for the help!
 
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I think we may have skipped something here. The eBay link that you posted HAS a driver attached. That driver is MADE SPECIFICALLY for that diode/module. The driver IS constant current and is pre-set to output the proper current to that specific module. You do NOT need to purchase a driver separate, that IS the driver on the back with the spring. Not every driver will work with every laser by the way. There are extensive and detailed threads in the "Drivers Test Loads and Batteries" section of the forum for more info. That driver it comes with is meant to run off of 3.0V-3.7V, this means any two standard 1.5V batteries (AA or AAA for example).
 

Chuiy

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Oh, I should have clarified... I was looking at a completely different laser diode and driver (both separate).

I was thinking about using the module for $20, but decided to save $10 and learn more about assembly by picking out the two separately and constructing my own laser, as opposed to purchasing a preset module.
 
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If that is the case, I would not work with a green or IR diode. Using a PHR or LPC diode and pressing it into a module yourself, then soldering leads to your driver, then to your power supply would be the most experience gained. It's also relatively cheap. Try Cajunlasers or Modwerx to get an LPC-815 sled, PHR-803T sled, LPC-826 diode, or PHR-805T diode. Then get an aixiz module and battery holder.
 
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Oh, I should have clarified... I was looking at a completely different laser diode and driver (both separate).

I was thinking about using the module for $20, but decided to save $10 and learn more about assembly by picking out the two separately and constructing my own laser, as opposed to purchasing a preset module.

I would save even more than that and start by reading some of the "stickies" here on the forum.

I don't think you will be very happy with a 980nm laser as your first pointer. ;)
 

Chuiy

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Ahhhh thanks :) I was looking for a cheap sled!

One last thing - what driver should I purchase? I see that the laser diode on the LPC-815 sled has no specifications on Modwerx (I assume it's the standard 5.6mm diode and outputs 150-200 mW). I can assume it would work with almost any driver though, correct?

And also - I see drivers with coiled springs on the bottom, and drivers with out them. I can assume that drivers without the springs have leads on the corners, but the drivers with the springs confuse me. I assume the spring is used for batteries, but to what extent I have no idea.

Thanks for being such a huge help and taking the time to answer my questions! :) It means a lot to have someone as knowledgable as you lend a hand.

Oh and one last thing. I understand nm (nanometers) have to do with wave length and in terms of lasers I have seen them go form 400's to 1000's. I was wondering what differentiates a 400nm from a 980nm?
 
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Hey bud,
I need sum advice.
I want a compact laser, that runs on a 123 or cr2 battery, red and/or green that will shoot a beam out to 500 meters and will have constant on/off switch, allowing to shine for 4 hours...
am I realistic?
 
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Ahhhh thanks :) I was looking for a cheap sled!

One last thing - what driver should I purchase? I see that the laser diode on the LPC-815 sled has no specifications on Modwerx (I assume it's the standard 5.6mm diode and outputs 150-200 mW). I can assume it would work with almost any driver though, correct?

No, reds require a low voltage driver. The 815 can probably do 250mW+ but for very little more an LPC-826 can easily do 300mW+

And also - I see drivers with coiled springs on the bottom, and drivers with out them. I can assume that drivers without the springs have leads on the corners, but the drivers with the springs confuse me. I assume the spring is used for batteries, but to what extent I have no idea.

Your questions aren't bad, but they are the questions that everyone asks when they first get here. Again, keep reading and a lot of this will be clearer to you.

Oh and one last thing. I understand nm (nanometers) have to do with wave length and in terms of lasers I have seen them go form 400's to 1000's. I was wondering what differentiates a 400nm from a 980nm?

Visible spectrum - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

405 is violet (aka blu ray), 445 is blue, 532 is green, 635 is orange red and 650-660 is red. 980 is infra red and virtually invisible and very dangerous because even though you can't see it, it can burn your retinas...
 
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Hey bud,
I need sum advice.
I want a compact laser, that runs on a 123 or cr2 battery, red and/or green that will shoot a beam out to 500 meters and will have constant on/off switch, allowing to shine for 4 hours...
am I realistic?

With enough money, a lot of things involving lasers become realistic. If you want a compact laser like that, there are some compromises to make. Run time vs size is one. You want to use low capacity batteries and a compact host. This means a smaller heat sink as well. Your best bet would be to use two CR123 batteries and a buck driver set to a conservative current using an M-140 diode. 445nm is very visible and buck drivers convert extra voltage into current, which will help with the small capacity issue. The host itself, I would reccomend looking at Jayrob's offered hosts. Look for one with a sizable heat sink and the battery size you want. Now, I'm not proclaiming that this will let you run for 4 hours straight and shine out 500 meters. The distance won't be too hard to achieve, the 4 hours of continuous use is what will kill you. 4 hours of battery life can be achieved with higher capacity batteries and a buck driver, but only spaced out over a period of time, not 4 straight hours of constant use. Hope this can help put things in perspective :beer:.


One last thing - what driver should I purchase? I see that the laser diode on the LPC-815 sled has no specifications on Modwerx (I assume it's the standard 5.6mm diode and outputs 150-200 mW). I can assume it would work with almost any driver though, correct?

And also - I see drivers with coiled springs on the bottom, and drivers with out them. I can assume that drivers without the springs have leads on the corners, but the drivers with the springs confuse me. I assume the spring is used for batteries, but to what extent I have no idea.

As far as drivers go, a little reading on the forum goes a long way as tsteele has said. As for what you need specifically:

The cheapest and also best learning experience way to get a driver for your PHR or LPC is to make one yourself. If you choose the red LPC, you should take an LM317 driver (easily found either online or in an electrical component shop) and a 3ohm 2 Watt resistor, solder the resistor across the V-out and Adj. pins for a cool 500mA that will push out about 250mW~ and give an LPC-826 diode a long lifespan. For a power source, anything from 6V-15V will work so 4 AA or AAA batteries, two 3.7V LiIons, or a bench power supply set somewhere in that range will work. For a PHR, get an LM317 driver and solder a 10ohm 2 Watt resistor across the V-out and Adj. pins. This will run your diode at about 125mA, which is really pushing the diode but will output about 110mW~ or so. For a more conservative output and longer lifespan use an 11 or 12ohm resistor. Hope this helps, but for more in-depth discussions on drivers, we have a whole segment of the forum dedicated to it: http://laserpointerforums.com/f67/
 
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Chuiy

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Alright! Thanks for the great reply. Here is what I have been looking at. I live near an industrial park and asked someone if I could have some components. They gave me a 10 ohm resistor and a LM317 voltage regulator. Very nice of them :) I also got a capacitor, but I don't think I will need that. If I hook all that up to a PHR-803T diode I am looking at (buying a sled.) it should all work out, correct?

As well, I found a great video explaining a basic setup here: DIY: Make a $3 Laser Diode Driver! - YouTube

I was just wondering - what should I use? Obviously the driver I am making will be large, but it can easily be compacted. Should I try and fit it into a host, or just go with an altoids tin? If I use an altoids tin I can use a large 9v battery to power this, but if I use a compact host, what power supply should I use? At this point I am just worried about everything coming together. Most the parts I am buying will take weeks to get here, I am just very nervous about something not working.

Oh and as well - I have not purchased my sled yet. Modwerx doesn't seem to sell sleds anymore, can anyone recommend a good, American sell who ships out sleds OR diodes? Aixiz modules would be nice too. I just don't want to wait three years to get a package in the mail from China :p

Again, thanks for all of the help!
 
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