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ArcticMyst Security by Avery

Sony 20x burners $24 at Newegg






chido

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Looks like there is no free shipping any more, and they are legit, read the thread. ;)
 

jayrob

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just_here_2_learn said:
Hey sounds great thanks for the tip but where's the free shipping and are these newegg.com guys ligit?

Keep watching. They go back and forth with the free shipping. Hopefully they’re still doing that anyway. I've been waiting for them to go back to their $22.99 with free shipping...
Jay
 

Abray

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It'll come back down. I made the mistake of ordering when it was at 32 dollars. the next day it went all the way down to 22 dollars.

but they are legit, I'll vouche for them
 
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OMG DUDE

any computer person would know that NEWEGG IS ONE OF THE MOST LEGIT WEBSITES ON THE FACE OF THE PLANET!!!

it is like the SANCTUARY OF ALL DIY COMPUTER HOBBYISTS!!!

legit and newegg are synonyms in the English language.....


--amk
 

Gazoo

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amkdeath said:
OMG DUDE

any computer person would know that NEWEGG IS ONE OF THE MOST LEGIT WEBSITES ON THE FACE OF THE PLANET!!!

it is like the SANCTUARY OF ALL DIY COMPUTER HOBBYISTS!!!

legit and newegg are synonyms in the English language.....


--amk

I agree...newegg is awesome all the way around. And I think this is my favorite thread on the forum because those sony drives are so easy to harvest..lol.
 
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cbrian4 said:
Has anyone put one of these diodes in a dorcy junior? To me it sounds like a perfect host for this diode because the dorcys put around 400ma's of current with a driver that already has capacitors in it. Also, are these safe to use just with an aixiz module, or do i need a heavy duty heat sink?

Thats a good question.. I also have a Dorcy jr just sitting around because the stonetek diode burned out.. Mine even has the heatsink from Kenom. With the resistor mine was putting out around 350ma's and 187 mw with the stontek diode. So if I remove the resistor it should be around 400 ma with just the stock Dorcy driver and no other resistors or capacitors needed. That should be perfect for the open can I would think. I'll have to give this a try.
 

Kenom

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You do NOT want to remove the resistor and throw an open can in the dorcy. The driver is a BOOST circuit. so it's boosting the voltage. Now yes, it does put out up to 400ma without any resistor in perfect conditions but it does SPIKE higher than that on initial startup. Someone needs to throw this on an oscilliscope to give us an idea of how high it spikes on initial startup. it has spelled instant death to the 13 open cans that I've tried without regulation.
 
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Kenom said:
You do NOT want to remove the resistor and throw an open can in the dorcy.  The driver is a BOOST circuit.  so it's boosting the voltage.  Now yes, it does put out up to 400ma without any resistor in perfect conditions but it does SPIKE higher than that on initial startup.  Someone needs to throw this on an oscilliscope to give us an idea of how high it spikes on initial startup.  it has spelled instant death to the 13 open cans that I've tried without regulation.

Thanks for the reply and clearing that up Kenom. So do you think it would be good to go if I put a capacitor between the diode and the circuit?
 
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Mine arrived today...and with free shipping. I've torn it down and have a diode waiting for a build now.
 
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i tried searching around but couldn't find too much. is there a good How To on how to get these diodes out? I've got it down to the burner assembly now but am not sure how to get the 2 diodes out (1 IR and 1 650nm).

thanks in advance

edit: this is where i'm stuck. how do i get teh diodes out? i can see them and am so close!
stuff008hm8.jpg


got one out by using a knife and i found a little slit which let me pry it out, still stuck on the 2nd tho.
003ip2.jpg
 
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flip it over. there is a metal cover. on that cover, there will be a lable with a bunch of numbers. write down those numbers (please) because you know amkdeath needs them badly. Then, using a screwdriver or something, pry/rip off the thin metal cover. inside, you wil find an LED, and 2 diodes.


congrats!!
 
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the numbers are 7K03
0281
C685

i'm not sure about the thin metal cover. ill keep looking

thx

edit: oh i already took off that cover. here's a pic of it.

and i found out its just a plastic casing or something similar to plastic because it broke off really easily. not sure what im goign to do to get it out of this casing though
004au9.jpg
 
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the diode you got out was the red open can. the one in the heatsink you see there in the second picture is the IR windowless (precious little baby)

Getting that out is a bit harder. using plyers, yank/snap off the heatsink from the rest of the sled. you should now have a heatsink (very small) and the diode. using a hacksaw, or a dremel, cut away from the heatsink untill you get to the diode.
 




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