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FrozenGate by Avery

The Gladiator

Lucian

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Apr 20, 2012
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This is the Gladiator. She took a long time to build. Hmm... I guess its a she.

The picture doesn't have the diode in, although it is right now and I will add some pictures once I fix a stability issue.

Diode - M140 - 445nm "2W" Version from DTR
Heatsink - Jayrob SolarForce L2P (Fits perfectly since the Solarforce Gladiator was designed to fit the same modules as the L2P)
Driver - Bucking X Drive at 1.8A from Lazeerer
Lens - Jayrob's G-1 Modification with Thread tape between the aixiz module, the lens, and the focus adapter.
Batteries - 4x Protected 18650s from LightHound

I'll write more about this particular build soon, just wanted to get the thread started. I'm also having a little trouble with it and am afraid to keep powering it up after the death of my first build.

Problem: The laser acts like it has a loose connection and can be "bumped" on or "bumped" off when the clicky switch is in the on position. But if I let it sit on the desk it still tends to shut off after about 30 seconds. I'm afraid I don't know what to troubleshoot since I've verified all the connections are solid.:confused:

qPhX6l.jpg
GPpf9l.jpg

kPnchl.jpg


P.S. It may be worth noting that since this is a buck driver I can drop it in the L2P host from my first build and use it successfully provided I add on the extended section for 2x 18650s or change down to 2x smaller batteries. The same would not be true in reverse as using a micro boost driver with 4x batteries in this host isn't a great idea.

First Build: R.I.P.
The Gladiator
 
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Man that thing looks dangerous. A real Spartacus weapon. :)
 
I'll write more about this particular build soon, just wanted to get the thread started. I'm also having a little trouble with it and am afraid to keep powering it up after the death of my first build.

Problem: The laser acts like it has a loose connection and can be "bumped" on or "bumped" off when the clicky switch is in the on position. But if I let it sit on the desk it still tends to shut off after about 30 seconds. I'm afraid I don't know what to troubleshoot since I've verified all the connections are solid.:confused:http://laserpointerforums.com/f65/gladiator-78286.html

I would highly suggest that you remove your LD and replace
it with a Test Load until your intermittent power problem has
been solved... or you WILL be ordering another LD...

BTW...I like the looks of that host...


Jerry

You can contact us at any time on our Website: J.BAUER Electronics
 
Four protected 18650 in series could have a very lousy contact. The laser need a very strong spring to keep the batteries connected in all time.
If you going to wave that host the batteries can create some momentum that causes intermediate on/off.
 
Thats a greeeeeeeeeeeeaaaaaat host you have there!!!!!!!!!
Congratulations on the build
 
If I had to guess, I would say the batteries you are using are probably slightly shorter than the specific brand of 18650's this light was designed for.

Get some small magnetic spacers to put between the contact points of the batteries, will help hold the contacts of the batteries together and will make them a little longer to reach your lasers contacts better.

Also, clean your threads, I've had dirty threads muck up connection. You can try reseating the clicky switch as well.

You may have already done all these things, just a few thoughts I had.

I really like that host by the way very cool build!
 
Thanks for all the suggestions. I've checked the connections between the batteries, the Spring is very tight and holds them together well. I believe my driver may not be heat sinked properly and is going into protection mode (A feature of the X Drive). I'll look into this when I get home from work tonight.

It now only shuts off after about 30 seconds of operation and no longer can be "bumped' on or off. I may have been fighting 2 issues. The contacts and the heat sinking.
 
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~20V input will need some kind of extra heatsinking i guess, Sometimes the driver's overheating protection doesnt save the smd resistors, and overheating it time and again would most probably completely fry the un-heatsinked resistor..

You can use any thermal compount and place small aluminium chips on them, then connect them to the host/pill or whatever you can. This will solve the problem!
 
~20V input will need some kind of extra heatsinking i guess, Sometimes the driver's overheating protection doesnt save the smd resistors, and overheating it time and again would most probably completely fry the un-heatsinked resistor..

You can use any thermal compount and place small aluminium chips on them, then connect them to the host/pill or whatever you can. This will solve the problem!
 
Man I've been oogling that host on lighthound since it was released, but just couldn't scrape the funds :(
 
why wouldn't you use 2X18650's and 2 dummy cells? the extra cells just increase voltage and heat.
 
~20V input will need some kind of extra heatsinking i guess, Sometimes the driver's overheating protection doesnt save the smd resistors, and overheating it time and again would most probably completely fry the un-heatsinked resistor..

You can use any thermal compount and place small aluminium chips on them, then connect them to the host/pill or whatever you can. This will solve the problem!

I might send you a message about this in a few days if you don't mind. I'm shelving the unit until my day off.

Man I've been oogling that host on lighthound since it was released, but just couldn't scrape the funds :(

I bought it back in April, been holding onto it this long before I had funds to finish it.

why wouldn't you use 2X18650's and 2 dummy cells? the extra cells just increase voltage and heat.

Since I am using the X Drive which is a very good Bucking Driver I figured this was a good opportunity to allow for a much longer battery life, so I can put it in my survival kit. Start a fire, signal/beacon for help if needed. Self defense if needed (not recommended... but survival kit)

The very same driver can be used with 2 batteries in my L2P host with the extended battery section. Or without the extended section if I use 2 of the smaller batteries that fit in it instead.... I was specifically trying to make this an easily interchangeable module based on need/desire. (literally unscrew the heatsink from host and drop in other host, and its ready in seconds) I'll get some pictures of what i mean up as soon as I heat sink the driver properly.
 
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Wow, usually I like to talk about torturing diodes... I guess drivers too if it's socially excepted that is. :D
 


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