FS: Key Chain Build Kit! - Fit for 10280 Battery...

You may also want to take a look at my Key Chain CR2 kit!
http://laserpointerforums.com/f39/fs-key-chain-cr2-kit-schweet-42773.html





Key Chain 10280 Kit:

You may have seen my Key Chain build that uses a FlexDrive, and is modified to fit a 200mAh 10280 battery...

I am going to offer this host as a kit that is modified for the battery fit, as well as the AixiZ module fit for the head. (as long as I can still get the hosts at Lowe's) I got some just last week, and have a few on hand...

But make sure you can get the 10280 battery! (links below)





Here's what 275mA's/78mW's of 445 looks like: (my recommended max current for this build using a 445 - you might push to 350mA's, but better to stay low IMO)








Blu-ray:

(Beam shot - with smoke)



Here's the thread that will give many details of the build and assembly:
http://laserpointerforums.com/f38/215mw-6x-key-chain-blu-ray-flexdrive-20124.html





This kit will only include:

* The host, which will have the head drilled out for an AixiZ fit, and the tail cap drilled out to fit the 10280 battery.





* $42 dollars plus $4 dollars shipping.
* Please read my shipping policy here!





Don't forget lens options!:

* 405-G-1 glass lens mod - $55 31% increase for blu-ray vs AixiZ acrylic! (new) See link in signature!
* 650-G-1 glass lens mod for red! (fit for AixiZ) - $52 25% increase for red vs AixiZ acrylic! (new) Shown here: http://laserpointerforums.com/f64/f...modification-fit-aixiz-25-increase-46332.html

For now, I will just offer this kit without a 'Hot' option. (without driver installed)





You will need: The battery, the module/diode, and the driver...

* FlexDrive:
http://hacylon.case.edu/ebay/laser_diode/Micro_FlexDrive.php

* 200mAh 10280 battery:
AW 10280 Unprotected Rechargeable Lithium Battery

* Charger for this size battery: (You want a charger that will not exceed a 1C charge rate)
Nano Charger





Build Tips:

* The stock circuit will have to be disabled as shown in my thread linked near the top of this post.

* Besides testing for voltage and then current, you also want to check for battery current draw before connecting your diode and completing your build. This is done by simply touching the negative probe of your DMM to the negative end of the battery, and the positive probe to the host. And then read the current/or voltage. (with the switch off) If you are getting any readings here, then you may not have disabled the stock circuit properly.

* It's a tight fit, but well worth the effort! Notice the little ground wire in this picture that gets good contact when you screw the head of the host in place:


* The battery negative is the host, the head of the host screws on, and makes contact with the wire shown in the above picture...

So you have to use your DMM to find the solder point that is the trace to that wire on the stock board for your lead wire that feeds your FlexDrive negative.

The positive lead comes from the switch leg that is continuous with the spring after you press the button.

But before you do any of that, you must make sure the stock circuit is disabled on the board.

My first one, I had working pefectly except for one little thing, the battery would slowly drain. I could get some slight current draw with my meter from battery negative to host.

So I looked further, and found that there was a tiny trace that was near the edge of the stock board. (not sure why, it had something to do with the little circuit that allows a momentary button to some how operate as a 'press on / press off' set up)

That's how this little key chain light is. It is a momentary button that somehow presses on, and stays on until you press it again.

Anyway, after I scraped through the board deep enough to sever the trace, it did not draw that small current from the battery any longer. I can leave the battery in there for months...

* I should mention that I assembled my 3 builds using version 3 FlexDrives that had to be 'trimmed' to fit the host. The version 4 FlexDrives are smaller. But I have not used a version 4 FlexDrive. I'm sure they will fit easier. However, they may be a little thicker than the version 3 FlexDrive.

* The heat shrink at the negative end of the battery will have to be cut off just a little to expose the metal contact of the battery for this build. Because you will not be using a spring in the tail cap:


* You will be installing your module/diode last. The module fit, will just slide into the head. So you will either use a very small amount of thermal adhesive, or better yet, I recommend the 'solder blob' method shown here:
http://laserpointerforums.com/f51/leadlight-blu-ray-flexdrive-803t-build-tips-37417.html
(Do this before you press your diode into the module)

The solder will stick to an AixiZ module if you get the module hot enough, and maybe use a little flux too.

I recommend my custom tool for this type of build. Because in case you want to remove the module, you cannot unscrew the head without twisting the wires and damaging the connections to your driver.


$23 dollars plus $3 dollars shipping for the custom tool. This will come in handy for Leadlight builds as well...
Jay

I suppose I will be your first order, Jay! To anyone else interested.. It may be a good idea to buy the batteries in advance as they are quite difficult to locate/acquire.

-Mike

Very nice. I was hoping you'd put these up for sale. Very nice kit.

:thanks:

It is a SCHWEET little build, but very tight. Plus, there is the stock circuit that must be disabled. So not for the normal beginner...




cust11, let us know how the version 4 FlexDrive fit goes for this Mike! I'll be shipping your kit tomorrow.
Jay

The batteries from AW 10280 Unprotected Rechargeable Lithium Battery ship out from TX so I SHOULD get the kit and batteries around the same time.

I will try to take as many photos as possible during the build. I will also be sure to inform you how the v4 flex fits inside this little bitty host. It looks to be a tighter build than the chrome mini. I can speak from experience that it will in fact be a very tight build and is not recommended for novice builders. (Granted I have only built a few tiny hosts, but I have over 3 years experience as an x-ray technician for a SMD line that produced Lexus/Mercedes Benz amplifiers. So tiny components and tight tolerances do not bother me)

-Mike

Yes you are correct, it is tighter and also more difficult than the Micro Chrome build, but if you had no problems with that one, then you will be fine with this one.

Just make sure you do voltage and current testing before you connect your diode. Also, as mentioned above, make sure you check for battery current draw in the off position. This is how you make sure you have disabled the stock circuit properly...
Jay

can a 10180 fit this ?

Arenared said:

can a 10180 fit this ?

Click to expand...

IIRC the original design fit the 10180 but its rated current is pathetic (90mAh) so you will have a very very short run time. Much more so with a higher current drawing diode (red LCC,LOC).

-Mike

Yes... correct!

A 10180 would fit even without the tail cap drilled if you remove the stock tail cap spring. But as Mike pointed out, the capacity is not that great...

It will work though.

Interesting, is that a red build at a higher current will not be too bad in comparison to a blu-ray build set at much less current. Because of the FlexDrive not having to boost voltage for a red diode.

In a blu-ray build using a FlexDrive/single battery set up, the driver will use extra current to boost voltage for a blu-ray diode. Here are some testing results for battery current draw on three different builds:


Battery Current Draw - for 3 different builds:
Here are my three different builds and the current draw on fully charged (200mAh) 10280 batteries...



* High efficiency PHR-803T blu-ray set at 117mA's and putting out 117mW's. (AixiZ acrylic) - 175mA's battery current draw.

* Sony/Senkat SLD1239JL-54 red set at 275mA's and putting out 200mW's. (AR coated lens) - 228mA's battery current draw.

* High efficiency (freak) 6X blu-ray set at 183mA's and putting out 215mW's! (AixiZ acrylic) - 288mA's battery current draw. (268mW's! using my 405-G-1 glass lens modification!

I'm guessing the 6X build will be 30 minutes run time (or less), but who cares?... 268mW's of blu-ray in a Key Chain build!
Jay

HE NEVER STOPS!!! Amazing contribution JAY!

I will assemble these for $20 + return shipping ^_^ it's quite a tiny build, so if you feel you need help, shoot me or him a PM, but Jay makes his kits pretty easy to handle VS their superior quality, so if you have faith! give it a shot! i personaly am thinking about ordering one for my self ^_^ quite tiny!!! and if the Pocket Mini has you spoiled...

Wait till you hold one of these!

Tyler - Dark Lasers

That's a great offer! $20 bucks for a build service is pretty much FREE!
Jay

Yeah it is... lol, remember when it was only $10... them were the days... them good 'ol days...

Man even at $20 it's pretty much a free service! (IMO)

I hope you don't get burnt out with rebuilds and stuff, because some will abuse their laser, and then think it's your fault that it died...




cust11, I sent your Key Chain kit today! (Thrusday)
Jay

Sweet! Thanks Jay! I can't wait for this thing to get here. They shipped my batteries as well. Included is a small magnet jumper so I can charge them on a cr2/cr123 charger. That works perfectly because I have a greenie in the works that needs 1 CR2. Two birds with one stone eh?

-Mike

Just check the output charge current of the charger that you have, because the rule is, a 1C charge rate for Lithium batteries...

That means with the 200mAh 10280, you do not want to charge any faster than 200mA's charge current. But a lesser charge rate would be even better for your battery.

The lithium coin cell charger from PowerStream that I linked in the first post is a very good little charger for this battery. Really cheap too!
Jay

I found one of those taskforce keychain lights I had lying around and was wondering if I could ship it to you and have you do the modifications to it. I forget what I payed for it so I can't tell if it's even worth it with shipping and all.

Also I have been wondering, the labels that you put on your builds, do you have a label maker that you print them out with or do you use a computer? Just curious, I kinda like having my lasers labeled