jayrob
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Update: I am offering a basic kit for this build! See here:
http://laserpointerforums.com/f39/fs-key-chain-kit-fit-10280-battery-42564.html#post558775
This little key chain light at Lowe's is made from a solid piece of brass! It is very heavy duty, but very small.
Here's the host:
Task Force at Lowe's: Mini LED Key Chain Light
I managed to get a FlexDrive inside there for an 803T blu-ray build! (then I made a red build, and then I made a 6X build - 268mW's with my 405-G-1 glass lens mod! (see lens in my signature)
Here are the pictures...
(beam shot with some smoke)
Assembly tip: The battery negative is the host, the head of the host screws on, and makes contact with the wire shown in the above picture...
So you have to use your DMM to find the solder point that is the trace to that wire on the stock board for your lead wire that feeds your FlexDrive negative.
The positive lead comes from the switch leg that is continuous with the spring after you press the button.
But before you do any of that, you must make sure the stock circuit is disabled on the board.
My first one, I had working pefectly except for one little thing, the battery would slowly drain. I could get some slight current draw with my meter from battery negative to host.
So I looked further, and found that there was a tiny trace that was near the edge of the stock board. (not sure why, it had something to do with the little circuit that allows a momentary button to some how operate as a 'press on / press off' set up)
That's how this little key chain light is. It is a momentary button that somehow presses on, and stays on until you press it again.
Anyway, after I scraped through the board deep enough to sever the trace, it did not draw that small current from the battery any longer. I can leave the battery in there for months...
I found that the stock, 'stacked' button cell batteries were not enough to run a FlexDrive...
The answer was to use a 3.6 volt Lithium 10180 battery. Or better yet... the tail cap can be drilled out to fit a 10280!
The 10180 batteries are 90mAh... But the 10280's, are 180 - 200mAh's!
With this in mind, I chose the highest efficiency PHR diode that I could find to keep the current as low as I could and still have good power!
117mW's @ 117mA's!
With a 10280, that should give around a 1 hour run time per charge...
* FlexDrive:
http://hacylon.case.edu/ebay/laser_d..._FlexDrive.php
* 200mAh 10280 battery:
AW 10280 Unprotected Rechargeable Lithium Battery
* Charger for this size battery: (You want a charger that will not exceed a 1C charge rate)
http://www.lighthound.com/Nano-Charger_p_1283.html
Update: I noticed that they PowerStream dosn't have the same style charger that I got any longer?? (must have changed the style) But you can use the Nano charger here: (which is a low current charger)
http://www.lighthound.com/Nano-Charger_p_1283.html
For the 10180 fit: I shortened the spring on the tail cap just a little, because the 10180 is just a little longer than the 3 stacked button cells that came with the host.
The only other thing that I did, was to bypass the little button circuit on the stock board to make it a momentary button switch...
It had some kind of little circuit that allowed it to be a constant on / off switch, but this did not work with the FlexDrive, so I just bypassed the circuit...
Notes: Figure a setting of about 130mA's to give (normally) 115mW's of blu-ray with the 803T diode for around a 1 hour run time between charges with the 10280 battery.
For a red, 275mA's still gives me 200mW's using the Sony/Senkat SLD1239JL-54 diode, along with the AR coated acrylic lens that I have linked below. I bought these from flee-bay. (thanks for that Igor)
Considering run time (boost vs buck vs diode used), Igor did some calculations that theoretically should allow using a higher current with a red diode build! Because the red diode takes less voltage, and the driver doesn't have to boost. A 200mW red, should be about the same battery life as a 200mW blu-ray. (I'm guessing about 1/2 hour at this higher current with a 10280)
Here's the lenses for red diodes. You'll get about 10% more power with these (vs AixiZ acrylic), and they fit right into the AixiZ module!:
plastic collimating lens, great deals on Business Industrial on eBay!
Get 20% more power vs AixiZ acrylic using my 'Meredith glass fit for AixiZ' lens modification shown here:
http://laserpointerforums.com/laser_pointer_forums_3/forum/showthread.php?t=22501
For a 6X build - A normal efficiency GGW 6X diode, set at 180mA’s, will give you around 170mW’s. (AixiZ acrylic lens - back opened)
But with my 405-G-1 glass lens modification, you will get at least 26% more power!
Tail cap mod!
I found just enough room in this host for a 10280, by drilling out the tail cap! (thanks for that idea Igor)
Now there is room for a 10280 (180 to 200mAh), which is twice the capacity of a 10180!
Battery tip:
The AW web site where I ordered the 10280's, says 180mAh's, but the batteries say 200mAh's on them!
I thought I would show that it is an easy mod to expose the negative end of the battery edges. This is needed with this build using the longer batteries. Because of the tail cap mod, there is no longer a center spring...
Battery Current Draw - for 3 different builds:
Here are my three different builds and the current draw on fully charged (200mAh) 10280 batteries...
* High efficiency PHR-803T blu-ray set at 117mA's and putting out 117mW's. (AixiZ acrylic) - 175mA's battery current draw.
* Sony/Senkat SLD1239JL-54 red set at 275mA's and putting out 200mW's. (AR coated lens) - 228mA's battery current draw.
* High efficiency (freak) GGW 6X blu-ray set at 183mA's and putting out 215mW's! (AixiZ acrylic) - 288mA's battery current draw. 268mW's using my 405-G-1 glass lens modification!
I'm guessing the 6X build will be 30 minutes run time (or less), but who cares?... 268mW's of blu-ray in a Key Chain build!
Build tip:
Before you complete the build, make sure you check to see if you are getting a voltage reading between the negative end of the battery, and the host! If you are getting any kind of a voltage reading here, then you have not disabled the stock switch circuit good enough...
There is a connection from one edge of the board (which is ground), that goes to the center. This has something to do with the way the little circuit would let the switch be a 'constant on' switch. I found that I needed to 'scrape' through this connection to by-pass the circuit completely...
Otherwise, I got a voltage reading from the negative end of the battery, to the host. Strange... On one of my builds, I actually got a small current draw here, and it would slowly drain the battery. After I did the above 'fix', the problem was solved.
Another build tip:
For a build like this, where your module goes in last with a 'light' press fit, a custom tool is needed to be able to remove the module for diode replacement if ever needed...
The plastic AixiZ nut is not strong enough to to pull out the module. And if you unscrew the head, the wires will twist and destroy the driver connections in this very tight build.
I made this custom tool from solid brass round stock (in case I ever need it), which will work well for Leadlights, and this tiny Key Chain build as well! It is 4" long, for a nice grip.
$23 dollars plus $3 dollars shipping.
The thread size is 9 X 0.5
Here's the site where I bought the tap and die set: (look for 9mm X .5) Thanks for that Kenom!
Tap - http://www.victornet.com/cgi-bin/victor/productlist.html?subdepartments=Metric+Taps:602,902,604
Die - http://www.victornet.com/cgi-bin/vi...tments=Dies,+Metric+(up+to+10+MM):603,606,599
Use a 7/32 bit for the hole in the tip of the tool... That way you can screw it all the way into the module, and not worry about the tool hitting the diode...
These threads are so fine, that there is pretty much no tolerance. Your piece must be exact before threading. Use a caliper that is accurate to 1/1000th. Then, get your material diameter exactly .355 in., and your good to go for the threading!
It's a good idea to leave an AixiZ module threaded on for protection when storing the tool...
Jay
Micro Blast Key Chain Flashlight Mod! - Must see:
I did a nice little flashlight mod for this key chain too! Check it out!
http://laserpointerforums.com/laser_pointer_forums_3/forum/showthread.php?t=34174
Click here to see my list of projects and tutorials!
http://laserpointerforums.com/f39/fs-key-chain-kit-fit-10280-battery-42564.html#post558775
This little key chain light at Lowe's is made from a solid piece of brass! It is very heavy duty, but very small.
Here's the host:
Task Force at Lowe's: Mini LED Key Chain Light
I managed to get a FlexDrive inside there for an 803T blu-ray build! (then I made a red build, and then I made a 6X build - 268mW's with my 405-G-1 glass lens mod! (see lens in my signature)
Here are the pictures...
(beam shot with some smoke)
Assembly tip: The battery negative is the host, the head of the host screws on, and makes contact with the wire shown in the above picture...
So you have to use your DMM to find the solder point that is the trace to that wire on the stock board for your lead wire that feeds your FlexDrive negative.
The positive lead comes from the switch leg that is continuous with the spring after you press the button.
But before you do any of that, you must make sure the stock circuit is disabled on the board.
My first one, I had working pefectly except for one little thing, the battery would slowly drain. I could get some slight current draw with my meter from battery negative to host.
So I looked further, and found that there was a tiny trace that was near the edge of the stock board. (not sure why, it had something to do with the little circuit that allows a momentary button to some how operate as a 'press on / press off' set up)
That's how this little key chain light is. It is a momentary button that somehow presses on, and stays on until you press it again.
Anyway, after I scraped through the board deep enough to sever the trace, it did not draw that small current from the battery any longer. I can leave the battery in there for months...
I found that the stock, 'stacked' button cell batteries were not enough to run a FlexDrive...
The answer was to use a 3.6 volt Lithium 10180 battery. Or better yet... the tail cap can be drilled out to fit a 10280!
The 10180 batteries are 90mAh... But the 10280's, are 180 - 200mAh's!
With this in mind, I chose the highest efficiency PHR diode that I could find to keep the current as low as I could and still have good power!
117mW's @ 117mA's!
With a 10280, that should give around a 1 hour run time per charge...
* FlexDrive:
http://hacylon.case.edu/ebay/laser_d..._FlexDrive.php
* 200mAh 10280 battery:
AW 10280 Unprotected Rechargeable Lithium Battery
* Charger for this size battery: (You want a charger that will not exceed a 1C charge rate)
http://www.lighthound.com/Nano-Charger_p_1283.html
Update: I noticed that they PowerStream dosn't have the same style charger that I got any longer?? (must have changed the style) But you can use the Nano charger here: (which is a low current charger)
http://www.lighthound.com/Nano-Charger_p_1283.html
For the 10180 fit: I shortened the spring on the tail cap just a little, because the 10180 is just a little longer than the 3 stacked button cells that came with the host.
The only other thing that I did, was to bypass the little button circuit on the stock board to make it a momentary button switch...
It had some kind of little circuit that allowed it to be a constant on / off switch, but this did not work with the FlexDrive, so I just bypassed the circuit...
Notes: Figure a setting of about 130mA's to give (normally) 115mW's of blu-ray with the 803T diode for around a 1 hour run time between charges with the 10280 battery.
For a red, 275mA's still gives me 200mW's using the Sony/Senkat SLD1239JL-54 diode, along with the AR coated acrylic lens that I have linked below. I bought these from flee-bay. (thanks for that Igor)
Considering run time (boost vs buck vs diode used), Igor did some calculations that theoretically should allow using a higher current with a red diode build!
Because the red diode takes less voltage, and the driver doesn't have to boost. A 200mW red, should be about the same battery life as a 200mW blu-ray. (I'm guessing about 1/2 hour at this higher current with a 10280)
Here's the lenses for red diodes. You'll get about 10% more power with these (vs AixiZ acrylic), and they fit right into the AixiZ module!:
plastic collimating lens, great deals on Business Industrial on eBay!
Get 20% more power vs AixiZ acrylic using my 'Meredith glass fit for AixiZ' lens modification shown here:
http://laserpointerforums.com/laser_pointer_forums_3/forum/showthread.php?t=22501
For a 6X build - A normal efficiency GGW 6X diode, set at 180mA’s, will give you around 170mW’s. (AixiZ acrylic lens - back opened)
But with my 405-G-1 glass lens modification, you will get at least 26% more power!
Tail cap mod!
I found just enough room in this host for a 10280, by drilling out the tail cap!
(thanks for that idea Igor)Now there is room for a 10280 (180 to 200mAh), which is twice the capacity of a 10180!
Battery tip:
The AW web site where I ordered the 10280's, says 180mAh's, but the batteries say 200mAh's on them!
I thought I would show that it is an easy mod to expose the negative end of the battery edges. This is needed with this build using the longer batteries. Because of the tail cap mod, there is no longer a center spring...
Battery Current Draw - for 3 different builds:
Here are my three different builds and the current draw on fully charged (200mAh) 10280 batteries...
* High efficiency PHR-803T blu-ray set at 117mA's and putting out 117mW's. (AixiZ acrylic) - 175mA's battery current draw.
* Sony/Senkat SLD1239JL-54 red set at 275mA's and putting out 200mW's. (AR coated lens) - 228mA's battery current draw.
* High efficiency (freak) GGW 6X blu-ray set at 183mA's and putting out 215mW's! (AixiZ acrylic) - 288mA's battery current draw. 268mW's using my 405-G-1 glass lens modification!
I'm guessing the 6X build will be 30 minutes run time (or less), but who cares?... 268mW's of blu-ray in a Key Chain build!
Build tip:
Before you complete the build, make sure you check to see if you are getting a voltage reading between the negative end of the battery, and the host! If you are getting any kind of a voltage reading here, then you have not disabled the stock switch circuit good enough...
There is a connection from one edge of the board (which is ground), that goes to the center. This has something to do with the way the little circuit would let the switch be a 'constant on' switch. I found that I needed to 'scrape' through this connection to by-pass the circuit completely...
Otherwise, I got a voltage reading from the negative end of the battery, to the host. Strange... On one of my builds, I actually got a small current draw here, and it would slowly drain the battery. After I did the above 'fix', the problem was solved.
Another build tip:
For a build like this, where your module goes in last with a 'light' press fit, a custom tool is needed to be able to remove the module for diode replacement if ever needed...
The plastic AixiZ nut is not strong enough to to pull out the module. And if you unscrew the head, the wires will twist and destroy the driver connections in this very tight build.
I made this custom tool from solid brass round stock (in case I ever need it), which will work well for Leadlights, and this tiny Key Chain build as well!
It is 4" long, for a nice grip.$23 dollars plus $3 dollars shipping.
The thread size is 9 X 0.5
Here's the site where I bought the tap and die set: (look for 9mm X .5) Thanks for that Kenom!
Tap - http://www.victornet.com/cgi-bin/victor/productlist.html?subdepartments=Metric+Taps:602,902,604
Die - http://www.victornet.com/cgi-bin/vi...tments=Dies,+Metric+(up+to+10+MM):603,606,599
Use a 7/32 bit for the hole in the tip of the tool... That way you can screw it all the way into the module, and not worry about the tool hitting the diode...
These threads are so fine, that there is pretty much no tolerance. Your piece must be exact before threading. Use a caliper that is accurate to 1/1000th. Then, get your material diameter exactly .355 in., and your good to go for the threading!
It's a good idea to leave an AixiZ module threaded on for protection when storing the tool...
Jay
Micro Blast Key Chain Flashlight Mod! - Must see:
I did a nice little flashlight mod for this key chain too! Check it out!
http://laserpointerforums.com/laser_pointer_forums_3/forum/showthread.php?t=34174
Click here to see my list of projects and tutorials!
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