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Old 09-24-2010, 09:18 PM #1
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Default Mini Dorky Overkill heatsink (from PC)

Just like this one, but smaller, with details -
Dorky Overkill Heatsink for 445nm

Mini Dorky Overkill Heatsink

1- Put wires (and TVS, if you want ESD protection) on your laser module. See my posting about inexpensive ESD protection here -
Inexpensive ESD (static) protection.
2- Take one small heat sink from a junker computer.
3- Cut a mounting plate out of copper or aluminum. Thickness should be 0.100 to 0.125 inches thick. Copper is MUCH better than aluminum, both for thermal and for strength reasons.
4- Using progressively larger drills, drill a hole in the center of your mounting plate. Carefully finish with a 27/64 drill or something just under 11mm in diameter.
5- Use an 11mm x0.5mm tap to thread the laser module mounting hole.
6- Set or clamp the mounting plate to the heat sink.
7- Looking at the heat sink fins, mark the mounting plate edge where there are gaps in the heat sink fins. This will allow you to miss drilling into the fins when adding the hold-down screws.
8- On the mounting plate, use a straight edge to draw lines marking where the gaps in the fins are.
9- Pick four places on the mounting plate and drill four holes through the plate and down through the heat sink. I used a drill sized for tapping 6-32 holes.
10- Remove the mounting plate and re-drill the four holes with a drill slightly larger than a #6 screw.
11- Tap the four screw holes in the heat sink with a 6-32 tap.
12- Add screws to verify placement! It should now look like this.


13- Drill a hole ~1/8" in the center of the 11mm module mounting hole.


14- Thread the laser module into the hole. If you used aluminum, you may want to glue the module in as well because of the relative softness of the metal.


The most important part of mounting the laser module is that the flat back-side of the module, including the laser diode itself, should be flush and come into contact with as much of the heat sink face as possible. *This is the most effective path to draw heat away from the laser diode!*

15 - Coat the back of the laser module and mounting plate with thermal paste and screw the mounting plate to the heat sink. Clean up the excess paste and you are done!

It's not a ***y host, but it's a good mount for a "lab laser" application where you want to keep the module very cool over long periods of time.


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Melles Griot Mini HeNe ~0.5mW
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405nm 200mW Mini-Dork
>1W (really) 445nm Dorky Overkill (bitchin)
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Many 30mW 405s
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MINI Dorky Overkill (405nm) Heatsink
Overkill based 445nm lab laser build!

Last edited by Markus Unread; 01-29-2013 at 01:30 AM. Reason: Updated bad image URLs
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Old 09-24-2010, 10:17 PM #2
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Default Re: Mini Dorky Overkill heatsink (from PC)

Sweet! Strap a small fan on the back to finish it off
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I see................wait, what now?

(3x) 405nm
(6x) 445nm
(4x) 532nm
(1x) 543nm
(1x) 632.8nm
(1x) 635nm
(3x) 660nm
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Old 09-24-2010, 10:23 PM #3
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Default Re: Mini Dorky Overkill heatsink (from PC)

The sweet part is, at 200ma, 6.1V & 68F, it doesn't even get warm. That's a 405nm LD.
__________________
----------------------------------------
Wicked DPSS Green 120mW (old)
Spectra HeNe 10mW
Melles Griot Mini HeNe ~0.5mW
Hughes flashlamp pumped Q-Switched ruby rod ???W (military)
405nm 200mW Mini-Dork
>1W (really) 445nm Dorky Overkill (bitchin)
Wicked Arctic G1
TriAngle DPSS Green 150mw (200mw)
Tmart DPSS Green 1000mw (800mw)
Many 30mW 405s
Many 405nm modules from Hightechdealz flopping around.


Click Me! Tech postings -
Super Cheap LD Puller
Inexpensive ESD protection.
MINI Dorky Overkill (405nm) Heatsink
Overkill based 445nm lab laser build!
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Old 07-21-2011, 03:54 PM #4
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Default Re: Mini Dorky Overkill heatsink (from PC)

A question--
And sorry to revive an old thread but this avoids me posting a new one!

Screwing into a copper mounting plate seems to work really well, with the back flush with the main sink surface like this one and you said it is the most efficient path.
But surely there would be more surface area if it was a simple hold drilled in with a set screw and the circumference received the contact? I know the idea is to get diode to contact but would that make such a difference?

The maxsink by flaminpyro seems to imply to me that a mounting plate is not necessary.

Just wondering if I should go buy a tap and postpone the building of my 3 445 labby's to mount them like this.
Would it make that much of a difference?

thanks in advance

Last edited by Humphry; 07-21-2011 at 03:57 PM.
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Old 07-21-2011, 05:02 PM #5
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Default Re: Mini Dorky Overkill heatsink (from PC)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Humphry View Post
A question--
And sorry to revive an old thread but this avoids me posting a new one!

Screwing into a copper mounting plate seems to work really well, with the back flush with the main sink surface like this one and you said it is the most efficient path.
But surely there would be more surface area if it was a simple hold drilled in with a set screw and the circumference received the contact? I know the idea is to get diode to contact but would that make such a difference?

The maxsink by flaminpyro seems to imply to me that a mounting plate is not necessary.

Just wondering if I should go buy a tap and postpone the building of my 3 445 labby's to mount them like this.
Would it make that much of a difference?

thanks in advance
As long as the tolerances are tight and the heatsink has enough max and or active cooling it will work just fine with a 12mm whole and set screw. Unless you have a crazy application I think you are over thinking it.
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Old 07-21-2011, 05:11 PM #6
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Default Re: Mini Dorky Overkill heatsink (from PC)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Helios View Post
As long as the tolerances are tight and the heatsink has enough max and or active cooling it will work just fine with a 12mm whole and set screw. Unless you have a crazy application I think you are over thinking it.
I will be running a 445 at about 1.5A for hours, hence my obsessing
So that should be fine with a fan.

Thank you for your help.
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Old 07-21-2011, 06:10 PM #7
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Default Re: Mini Dorky Overkill heatsink (from PC)

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Originally Posted by Humphry View Post
I will be running a 445 at about 1.5A for hours, hence my obsessing
So that should be fine with a fan.

Thank you for your help.
The best route would be to go with direct press. Or even better yet use a TEC to keep it cool.
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Old 07-21-2011, 07:18 PM #8
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Default Re: Mini Dorky Overkill heatsink (from PC)

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The best route would be to go with direct press. Or even better yet use a TEC to keep it cool.
Direct press is above my ability to be safe for the diode.
TEC, well I want to avoid drawing unecessary current as effeciency is a factor as these will be used on batteries. Wow I must sound so fussy.

I will stop worrying and just drill a hole into a CPU heatsink.

Thanks again.
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Old 07-21-2011, 08:05 PM #9
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Default Re: Mini Dorky Overkill heatsink (from PC)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Humphry View Post
Direct press is above my ability to be safe for the diode.
TEC, well I want to avoid drawing unecessary current as effeciency is a factor as these will be used on batteries. Wow I must sound so fussy.

I will stop worrying and just drill a hole into a CPU heatsink.

Thanks again.
It should be fine if its a large heatsink with a fan. Just monitor the temperature. I have a 100W LED that I mounted to a CPU heasink with fan....and it only takes 5 seconds to get burn your flesh hot I need to pick up a TEC but you should be fine as is.
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Old 07-23-2011, 01:20 PM #10
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Default Re: Mini Dorky Overkill heatsink (from PC)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Helios View Post
It should be fine if its a large heatsink with a fan. Just monitor the temperature. I have a 100W LED that I mounted to a CPU heasink with fan....and it only takes 5 seconds to get burn your flesh hot I need to pick up a TEC but you should be fine as is.
Ill just drill a hole in a copper core one
If you're patient enough I am planning to go e-scrap hunting and if I find a TEC i'll sent it to you. For free of course. May only be a few weeks though..
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Old 07-23-2011, 04:24 PM #11
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Default Re: Mini Dorky Overkill heatsink (from PC)

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Originally Posted by Humphry View Post
Ill just drill a hole in a copper core one
If you're patient enough I am planning to go e-scrap hunting and if I find a TEC i'll sent it to you. For free of course. May only be a few weeks though..
That would be awesome. This project is getting more expensive than I anticipated. Keeping it cool and buying batteries that can discharge 10A has been a PITA
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