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ArcticMyst Security by Avery

What lights do you have?

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Most people like warm tints better... the only time I've heard of a cool beam being better is when working inside a computer case.

I like cooler lights for throwers, too. Because all you're really doing is identifying something, I want it to be a bright as possible.
 





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Not only that, but you're more attuned to blue at night.

A cool tint does not actually have much more blue light in it. Both cool and warm whites have a peak somewhere around 460nm, and at the same number of lumens they will both emit basically an equivalent amount of blue light (the neutral white a bit less). The only difference is that cool white has a sharper peak at 550-600 nm (usually) while the warm white spreads the peak out father in to the 600nm range and lends a bit of the energy lost from the blue light to the green-orange range. Warm white will actually lose a lot of blue light and gain a lot of warmer light.

However, even if there is a benefit to your night vision from a cool white light, I don't see any flashaholics at CPF saying so. In fact, I've heard things like the reduced Rayleigh scattering from warmer colors actually allows the light to be seen a lot further at night due to the lack of "interference" from the beam. Many people say they love to use warm white at night, and I agree with them.



What do you mean by that? I thought that our eyes were more sensitive to blue light than red light any time.

Your sensitivity to blue light goes way up at night, while your sensitivity to other colors stays roughly the same.
 
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A cool tint does not actually have much more blue light in it.

Um... yes it does. Let's take this to the extreme. a 20,000k source is a very cool tint... almost pure blue. How could you possibly get a blue light without more... blue?

It's true they both have a peak at 460-something, but a cool white uses less phosphor, so less light is converted from 460. And since less conversion is done, efficiency is inherently higher.

WLED-w5_comp.gif
 
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Derp, I meant to say "neutral" white, not warm. Warm does have a significantly lower blue peak, while neutral is mostly just messing with the smaller green-red peak, with a slightly lower blue peak. They're more "equalized" versus "swapped".


Also, forgot to add that I just bought a nitecore D10 R2 ramping for $40 :D
 
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erns

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Got a few new lights recently

Pelican 2360

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Got the iTP A3 EOS from Shining Beam.

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Got my "Garage Sale" EagleTac T10L from 4sevens.

No Box. Doesn't bother me.

T10L works great!

2 slight nicks but I don't care. I'll be using this light at work.

EagleTacT10L007.jpg


EagleTacT10L006.jpg


EagleTacT10L011.jpg


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EagleTacT10L009.jpg
 
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Did I ever post pictures? Don't think so... Here they are. RQ first:

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Monster reflector:
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The Aurora AK-P7-5.

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Sorry no pics of the Spiderfire. I didn't have a good camera when I got it, and the light is so beat up now it's not even picture-worthy.

Erns, how do you like the iTP? I've been hearing great things about them, and I've wanted to get the A1 SS for a while.
 

erns

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My version is the the single level light.

They do make a 3 level light but it starts at medium, low then high. If it started at high I would have purchased the 3 level. I like my lights to start on high.

I did solder the 2 jump rings on the key chain. You have a good chance of losing the light if the jump ring splits.

It is a low cost key chain light. I paid little less than $18.50 - the CPFuser discount.

Uses common AAA batteries.

This is the link, Shining Beam. 6% off code: CPFuser
 
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I'll try to post some pictures of my lights in the coming days (and after my third light arrives :D), but I can say that I have three lights:

Fenix TK-11
MG P-Rocket
Olight SR90 (received by customs today, hopefully comes before the weekend. Customs has 8 more hours to clear it for that)
 

3zuli

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this is my MTE SSC-P7
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I also have the X2000 zooming flashlight, 5W halogen torch, some headlamps and other flashlights
 




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