Welcome to Laser Pointer Forums - discuss green laser pointers, blue laser pointers, and all types of lasers

LPF Donation via Stripe | LPF Donation - Other Methods

Links below open in new window

ArcticMyst Security by Avery

Still thinking on getting a 520nm......

Vision

2
Joined
Jan 30, 2016
Messages
392
Points
28
Yup makes sense, love to see that. I'm so afraid of purchasing something from DTR because I still have yet to build my own, I'm afraid if I mess one thing up that's over 100 bucks wasted and I'd feel stupid lol. But I guess you'll never learn if you don't try. Yeah I just found out about the NubM08E 3 days ago, MONSTER!!! :D

Yeah, I never built anything complicated before. I used to build cheap BR and Red DVD lasers from old PCs YEARS ago but nothing like today's high powered ones. There might be more/better diodes too. We'll just have to wait and see for someone to get their hands on and tests it first.
 





Joined
May 9, 2015
Messages
1,181
Points
113
Yeah, I never built anything complicated before. I used to build cheap BR and Red DVD lasers from old PCs YEARS ago but nothing like today's high powered ones. There might be more/better diodes too. We'll just have to wait and see for someone to get their hands on and tests it first.


I've actually got an old DVD burner in my room, I should give it a try sometime.
What do those usually max out at? About 200-250mw? I think that's what Styropyro said in one of his vids.
 

GSS

0
Joined
Apr 28, 2015
Messages
5,088
Points
113
Interesting what people say about 532 vs 520. People say 520 is a more "pure" green. Does "pure" mean more comfortable and agreeable to view? IMO, pure green means lime-green. 520 in photos looks a touch more blue-ish and a cooler, more natural looking green. I think that's why people say "pure"?

Photos seem to make them look more different than in real life viewing. Side by side I can tell a difference. But a 520 by itself is somewhat hard to tell. In real life viewing I see 520 as more of a silver/white "diluted" type of green, not a blue-ish green. It's looks like a 532 that's less "rich" in green color. I don't mean that negatively, just hard to describe.

I've heard 532 described as bitter, acidic, electric, lime, etc. 520 is just more comfortable of a color IMO. I've also grown to dislike the power inefficiency & temp sensitivity of 532, and the brightness changes. Meh!!! ^_^

I'm thinking of a high power 520 myself. With a 3-element lens, how's the divergence and quality of the NDG700 700mW? Thanks
Just got my first ever 520nm. Lifetime built me a nice set up using
a PLB520b1 at 170mw average
boost drive set at 430ma
1/2 CU 1/2 AL heat sink
in a green 501b host for the all green theme
3 element lens
Now I see what every one means by calling it a purer color of green. I see it that its more of a natural green than the 532.
I can't compare it to 700mw diode but with the 3 element lens I can get a dot focus at 20 ft. and can focus it that at 10 in. away from lens tip I can get a thin point of the beam thats perfect for burning matches. At only 170mw I didn't try any other burning yet. I would say everyone needs to try this 520 wavelength as it won't dissapoint.
 
Joined
Mar 21, 2016
Messages
966
Points
43
I've actually got an old DVD burner in my room, I should give it a try sometime.
What do those usually max out at? About 200-250mw? I think that's what Styropyro said in one of his vids.

Best way to start, those diodes are pretty fragile and if you can press/solder one and make it lase, time for more expensive diodes
 
Joined
May 9, 2015
Messages
1,181
Points
113
Best way to start, those diodes are pretty fragile and if you can press/solder one and make it lase, time for more expensive diodes

Actually a great idea. Yeah I'm still debating on just going all in and buying a c6 host from survival and a 2w 445 with driver attached from DTR and try my hand at it. First DIY ever done maybe I'll do ok. Can't be too difficult. I love looking at everyone's big time custom laser builds ans just wondering how you all are so good at these things :)
 
Joined
Mar 21, 2016
Messages
966
Points
43
Actually a great idea. Yeah I'm still debating on just going all in and buying a c6 host from survival and a 2w 445 with driver attached from DTR and try my hand at it. First DIY ever done maybe I'll do ok. Can't be too difficult. I love looking at everyone's big time custom laser builds ans just wondering how you all are so good at these things :)

Don't get the driver attached you'll be wanting to get your driver from survival laser purchase the driver pill combo
 
Joined
May 9, 2015
Messages
1,181
Points
113
Don't get the driver attached you'll be wanting to get your driver from survival laser purchase the driver pill combo


Yeah I may do that, because that's the one that will fit that particular host huh,
What else will I need?
 
Joined
May 9, 2015
Messages
1,181
Points
113
For 2w I would get the copper heatsink, and you'll need thermal compound


Oh okay that's I was about to ask. Okay awesome. I also need to get a soldering iron also. Can't wait to try it, that's gonna be great because I know that it's a lot more fun to build your own :D
 
Joined
Mar 21, 2016
Messages
966
Points
43
Oh okay that's I was about to ask. Okay awesome. I also need to get a soldering iron also. Can't wait to try it, that's gonna be great because I know that it's a lot more fun to build your own :D

It's very satisfying you won't be sorry
 
Joined
Jan 2, 2016
Messages
60
Points
0
The 520nm diodes are totally worth the $160 I sell them for not only due to you not needing to pump it but because you can already tell it's slightly more "pure green" as another member stated earlier in the thread, but because you can push up to, and over, 1.4W between 2.2A to 2.6A with the NUGM01T.

What I REALLY want to do is get the Oclaro 40W 808nm bar ($60 vs the Coherent brand diode which is STARTING at 4x more), pump it through crystals that get me down to 520nm, up the current to yield a good 80W to 100W, sandwich it between a couple of my TEC-12706s, lots of copper.. but in handheld form.. and piss off some aliens

... and then probably wind up in the fed.. or gitmo o.o


going back to the crystal pump thing.. are there crystals that can handle 80W+ or would there be high power losses which would limit output to something lower than 80W?

*I just got into this hobby a little more than half a year ago and have turned it into a business and regularly build 6W to 7W handhelds in ultra tiny custom Nigerian-rigged Cu hosts (either from piecing various parts together, having parts pumped out on a 5-axis CNC, or re-arranging modular telescopic mech mods), LED flashlight hosts (Mainly the Sky Ray S-R5 because it has good sinking qualities, Z5 because it's a 2x18650 and has a large tip/head.. ;) ... for a large custom Cu heat sink, or any flashlight that someone hands me and wants me to convert), to my purpose built laser hosts that we all know and love like the OEM 850 unit that people know as the Arctic Spyder or OX-5 (somethin like that) to the OEM 920 2x26650 (or 1x26650 for green or red / 2x22650 / 2x18650 / 2x16340 with 16340 to 18350 sleeve inside of a single 18650-to-26650 adapter) / 2x18350 inside of a single 18650-to-26650 adapter) which some may know as the Jetlaser PL-E Pro, but my TEC cooled version isn't coming soon, it's here, and I'm working on a digipot controlled unit with optical power output reading (the first phase of testers will only be an approximation using a simple formula based on my testing of that individual diode - of course degradation will be a factor that I can't factor into the equation as every diode may be different and life happens, but later on I might have a small mirror scrub a tiny bit of beam and redirect it to a LPM sensor for actual live real-time output readings. RAMBLING.. the point is that I've learned a lot in a short time, but limited to mainly blues that aren't pumped. I know the basics of DPSS, but not tech details such as which type of crystal yields what color and at how much transmission loss. Do we have a thread on LPF that has this DPSS stuff charted?

JetLaser PL-E Pro (EDIT: Some f4g called BS on me for some reason.. I guess some people don't realize that many vendors purchase things such as hosts from an OEM or in the case of China, the OEM or it's many clones.. kind of like the Arctic Spyder looking very similar to my OEM 850 housing below the larger 920 aka PL-E (1st image)):

11506-920-laser-host-my-test-mule-testing-various-diode-driver-tec-combos.jpg


(EDIT: Added these just to prove a point.. but I should have posted these anyhow.. since they ARE of the 520nm NUGM01T) OEM 850 Host w/ X-Wossee's 6A Proto Driver.. the one that looks like a Spyder or whatnot:

11509-850-housing-w-x-wossee-6a-prototype-green-board-driver-capable-8a-solid.jpg


11511-20160204-102639.jpg


11512-20160204-103349.jpg


11513-20160205-144355.jpg
 
Last edited:
Joined
Apr 2, 2009
Messages
10,662
Points
113
WHO are you to JETLASERS??
are you using their pics w/Permission?

your brick of text is hard to read..
....
 
Joined
Mar 21, 2016
Messages
966
Points
43
On October 31, 2015, it suddenly developed significant splash, then within a few hours the power started to diminish and the laser started emitting 2 beams. It still emits 2 beams at very low power. Prior to that point I had never removed the lens, so I have no idea what could have caused the problem.

Hi Sta,
Didn't notice this before, sounds as tho something burned on the diode window and can be fixed by decanning the diode
 




Top