- Joined
- Nov 10, 2008
- Messages
- 4,186
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I had a spare flexdrive and a a high power blu ray diode which I harvested months ago from a BDR-S06J. I recently bought a SAIK kit by Mohrenberg which I decided would be excellent to turn into a 405nm laser. I took a lot of pictures during the assembly so it can be used as a guide for those who are planning a similar build. Don't mind the arctic alumina adhesive. I didn't glue the flexdrive on the heatsink in the end. Wasn't worth it plus I may need to use it in another build sometime( which I doubt since I love this laser ). Anyway, I'll let the pictures do the talking.
WARNING
DO NOT USE ALIGATOR CLIPS TO HOLD A FLEXDRIVE. PART OF THE PLASTIC COVER OF THE COIL BROKE. FORTUNATELY THE FLEXDRIVE STILL WORKED LIKE BEFORE.
I used some fine heatshring tubing .
I noticed a small gap between the aixiz module and the heatsink, so I threw in some prolimatech thermal adhesive to achieve a slightly better heat transfer. Better than nothing.
Now, here's where I got confused. For some reason I soldered the wire that goes to the positive input of the driver to that pad on the stock driver pcb ( Of course I removed all the components from it before ). That was wrong. The correct pad was a small circular pad right below the blue wire. For the driver - input, a small metal pin was already there so I just soldered a wire there.
Wrapped the driver with some insulation tape just in case.
I then moved the head to the rest of the body, screwed it, then put everything together and it's done
Reading with a 405 AR glass lens
Reading with a 445 AR glass lens
Hope you you like it
WARNING
DO NOT USE ALIGATOR CLIPS TO HOLD A FLEXDRIVE. PART OF THE PLASTIC COVER OF THE COIL BROKE. FORTUNATELY THE FLEXDRIVE STILL WORKED LIKE BEFORE.
I used some fine heatshring tubing .
I noticed a small gap between the aixiz module and the heatsink, so I threw in some prolimatech thermal adhesive to achieve a slightly better heat transfer. Better than nothing.
Now, here's where I got confused. For some reason I soldered the wire that goes to the positive input of the driver to that pad on the stock driver pcb ( Of course I removed all the components from it before ). That was wrong. The correct pad was a small circular pad right below the blue wire. For the driver - input, a small metal pin was already there so I just soldered a wire there.
Wrapped the driver with some insulation tape just in case.
I then moved the head to the rest of the body, screwed it, then put everything together and it's done
Reading with a 405 AR glass lens
Reading with a 445 AR glass lens
Hope you you like it
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