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Review of the Blue 450nm Directly-Injected Diode Laser Pen

The LED (& Laser) Museum

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Blue 450nm Directly-Injected Diode Laser Pen
Retail $26.00

Manufactured by (unknown) for Laserland (www.laserland.com)

Last updated: 11- 08-23

tNqRiib.jpg

This is a 450nm (visually estimated at 451nm) blue directly-injected diode laser pen. Design power output is 5mW, but appears to be between 5mW and 7mW (the first set of batteries were bum; when they were replaced, power output increased to an est. 20mW). It is made primarily from aluminum, covered with what I believe is a black baked enamel finish and has brushed aluminum tailcap, bezel, and narrow band near the center.

I'm not equipped to measure wavelength, but it appears to be between 450nm and 453nm.

Feed the laser pen a pair of AAA cells first, and then you'll be ready to rock.

To use the laser pen, just aim it at something you wish to irradiate, and press & hold down the metal pushbutton on the barrel for as long as you want to blast the target with blue laser radiation. Release the button when you want to neutralise the laser pen.


To change the batteries in this laser, unscrew the laser near the center, and set the front half aside.

Tip the used AAA cells out of the barrel and into your hand, and dispose of, recycle, or recharge them as you see fit. Please do not under any circumstances flush them down a toliet or throw them into a dolly varden-filled stream or those tree-huggers might hunt you down and then "pruseed" "tu" "bete" "thuh" "livengh" "tweadel" "owt" "uv" "ewe" "whith" "uh" "ded" "trei" "branchh". ;-)

Insert two new AAA cells into the barrel, button-end (+) positive first. This is the opposite of how batteries are installed in most flashlights, so please pay attention to polarity here.

Screw the front half of the laser back on, and be done with it.



This is a laser pen, not a flashlight meant to be carried around, thrashed, trashed, and abused, so I won't try to drown it in the toliet tank, run over it with a 450lb Quickie Pulse 6 motorised wheelchair, stomp on it, send it to the Daystrom Institute for additional analyses, or perform other indecencies on it that a flashlight might have to have performed on it. So this section of the web page will be a bit more bare than this section of the web page on a page about a flashlight.

This laser is not very water-resistant, so please be extra careful when using it around sinks, tubs, loos (toliets), fishtanks, pet water bowls, or other places where water or water-like liquids might be found. And you'll probably want to cover it up or otherwise get rid of it (such as by putting it in a pocket or bag) if you need to use it in rain or snow.

There are no current usage, optical power output measurements or spectrographic analyses because I no longer own or have access to a DMM, LPM, or spectrometer.

I was not able to measure wavelength with a diffraction grating and a meter stick (yes, I have both products at my disposal) because there is insufficient space here, and an outdoor measurement is not possible because I'm in a wheelchair after falling prey to a crippling stroke on 03-21-22 and my physical ability to measure with this equipment is extremely limited at best.


This is the Laserland 450nm directly-injected blue diode laser being test-fired.
This is in leiu of the static beam terminus pic that I'd normally furnish; I fell prey to a crippling stroke on 03-21-22 and can no longer use my right arm.


This is again in leiu of the static beam terminus pic that I'd normally furnish.

As above; low ambient lighting this time.​



TEST NOTES
Test unit was purchased from Ebay on 10-21-23, and was received on 11-03-23.

I got far fewer fireworks from my sister than I expected; though I could rather readily detect disdain in her voice about my having received this laser.

UPDATE 00-00-00



PROS:
Color is extremely radiant and unuusual for a portable laser (blue is becoming common and somewhat inpen$ive however)
Nice beam quality -- beam is exceptionally clean with no unwanted "nasties" (artifacts) in it
Uses batteries that are common and relatively inexpen$ive
Appears significantly brighter than expected -- just slightly overspec




NEUTRAL:
Not waterproof or submersible - but most pointers aren't. Will not figure into my rating.




CONS:
A bit overspec


PRODUCT RATING:

st4.gif
 
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Sorry to hear about your stroke. I have been diagnosed with atrial fibrillation and now take low dose aspirin instead of the blood thinning drugs that they tend to put everyone on. Seems to be working for me as I now bruise far too easily just like eliquis takers do.
 
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Ok I just bit the bullet and purchased a digital camera.
I may be able to start publishing those static beamshots.
ETA is 11-14-23. :cool:

You won't be sorry. I've had one for years. Used to have a Minolta with a long zoom lens back in the 1980s before digital cameras were available to many shutter bugs. ;)
 

The LED (& Laser) Museum

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You won't be sorry. I've had one for years. Used to have a Minolta with a long zoom lens back in the 1980s before digital cameras were available to many shutter bugs. ;)
I've used digital cameras for decades. but my last one was lost on 05-15-21 along with everything else that I owned.
The one I'm getting will be a Kodak Easyshare 2710.

2dXt7C8.jpg


It's just a beater camera that didn't cost me a lot of $ ($15.00 in this case), but it should do the job.
It has a 7.10MP sensor and 10x optical zoom.
 
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I've got a Canon digital camera with 20 megapixels. Had it for well over a decade. Just don't take that many photos any longer.
 

The LED (& Laser) Museum

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I've got a Canon digital camera with 20 megapixels. Had it for well over a decade. Just don't take that many photos any longer.
I started with a Jam Cam in the mid-1990s -- the name Jam Cam was quite appropriate as it was always jamming. o_O
Since then I've had Canon, Nikon, Olympus, Polaroid, and several other brands. But this will be my first Kodak.

Jd0C3rc.jpg

This is what the assinine thing (the Jam Cam) looked like.
It sported a 300KP (0.30MP) sensor. O boy!!! Some seriously high-res shit!!! 😫

jervis2.jpg

I believe this photograph came from this camera in 2000.
Seven antique telephone insulators sitting on a chunk of the old Kingdome in Seattle WA. USA.

iHi2RXt.jpg

And here is another pic taken by the Jam Cam.
This shot from when I got my first scooter in 1997 was taken at the Pike Place Market in Seattle WA. USA, just two blocks from my home at the time.
This is the maximum image size of 640*480.
 
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The LED (& Laser) Museum

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Well, the seller of that Kodak camera won't ship or respond to my queries, so I ordered (well, started bidding on) another camera from a different seller.
To wit:

4Yt8QAL.jpg


This is a Kodak Easyshare V1003.
It has a 10MP sensor and has 3x optical zoom.
Again, kind of a beater, but it will suffice for my needs.
 
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Yeah, can you explain how adding an "emerald" sensor makes these cameras able to photograph yellow lasers. To me emerald is just green.
 
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Yeah, it was another member who stated the addition of this sensor made it possible to get the lemon yellow of the 57x nm lasers. His understanding is the sensor is more cyan than green. I don't get it either.
 

The LED (& Laser) Museum

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Yeah, it was another member who stated the addition of this sensor made it possible to get the lemon yellow of the 57x nm lasers. His understanding is the sensor is more cyan than green. I don't get it either.
Now that's downright wierd. o_O
Making the sensor more toward green/cyan brings it FARTHER away from yellow. :sick:
 
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Now that's downright wierd. o_O
Making the sensor more toward green/cyan brings it FARTHER away from yellow. :sick:
Yeah, as an EE I worked with video cameras that use vidicons, video tubes, and they used red green and Blue filters to differentiate between the three colors. Seems to me that using a yellow filter in front of the pixels of your sensor would work much better.
 




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