Hey guys - and sorry for the semi-long post,
I'm building (copying) a couple builds from others here on LPF. For testing my first crude test builds, I've been using variable voltage wall warts, but my final builds will use 2 Li-Ion 10440. I've stopped my work, as I'm unsure if there will be differences between the Li-Ion's and constant DC power supplies.
The builds are two ST phasers, LM317 driver for the PHR on 2x Ultrafire 10440 3.6v. The original sound board will be run from a 3v button cell, and the LED output will be tapped and run to an SCR (2n5060) acting as the switch for the 317. One of these phasers is a gift for my brother (big trek fan) for being my best man a few weeks ago, so I don't have time to blow up parts and re-order... (yes I bought him safety glasses)
As I'm still waiting for my battery order to arrive, I've stopped working on them. I'd like to start it up again, but am hesitant on the differences between the 2 power sources... Does anyone have experience switching safely from one to the other without having to re-test the driver current/voltage?
Cheers,
Zen
I'm building (copying) a couple builds from others here on LPF. For testing my first crude test builds, I've been using variable voltage wall warts, but my final builds will use 2 Li-Ion 10440. I've stopped my work, as I'm unsure if there will be differences between the Li-Ion's and constant DC power supplies.
The builds are two ST phasers, LM317 driver for the PHR on 2x Ultrafire 10440 3.6v. The original sound board will be run from a 3v button cell, and the LED output will be tapped and run to an SCR (2n5060) acting as the switch for the 317. One of these phasers is a gift for my brother (big trek fan) for being my best man a few weeks ago, so I don't have time to blow up parts and re-order... (yes I bought him safety glasses)
As I'm still waiting for my battery order to arrive, I've stopped working on them. I'd like to start it up again, but am hesitant on the differences between the 2 power sources... Does anyone have experience switching safely from one to the other without having to re-test the driver current/voltage?
Cheers,
Zen