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Mitsubishi 500mW 638nm Build

J

justinpiu

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I wanted to make a build with this diode from DTR and was wondering if the 1.25A driver from survival laser would work with this?
This one:
1.25A Driver

Sorry for being so nooby, I'm just getting into this hobby and want to make sure everything would work out. :yh:
 





I did the same thing, it works well. Be sure you have a nice and massive heatsink, the mits heats up quickly at that current.
 
Couple things to keep in mind this LED driver is putting out over the max suggested current for this diode. If you do choose to over drive the diode using this driver that is up to you but please make sure to have a test load to test it after you press it in the pill of the host before connecting it to the diode to ensure it is regulating properly.

I seen a few failures with this driver when a test load was not used to confirm the driver is working properly after pressing in the pill. This driver has components that are close to the side wall that can short on the inner wall of the pill or traces on the thin PCB that can be broken by pressure when pressed in. Testing it can save your diode.:beer:
 
I was just about to say I wouldn't use that driver and to save up for a better quality driver..

I personally would stick with DTR's services :D
 
^^I agree. The last thing you want is to kill a good diode because you skimped on the driver.
 
I used a zero lasers host from DTRs site. As for the driver, I shouldn't short against the pill because survival lasers one comes with glue on the exposed parts. Although it is still a good idea to test it. Mine tested stable at least, but I'd have to defer to DTR on this one. It's up to you.
 
justinpiu said:
I wanted to make a build with this diode from DTR and was wondering if the 1.25A driver from survival laser would work with this?
This one:
1.25A Driver

Sorry for being so nooby, I'm just getting into this hobby and want to make sure everything would work out. :yh:
Click to expand...

This driver will most likely kill the diode as it´s causing little spikes while turning on. These are ok for 445nm diodes as those can handle these spikes but not with the Mustubishi diodes. I´m talking from experience because such a driver killed a few for me.

You need a driver with a soft turn on. Yeah, it costs more but in the other hand where is the sense to buy a $50 diode and kill it with a cheap $5 driver?

So better spend a little more and order the diode together with a good driver directly from DTR.
 
Confucius say "It is better to buy quarity driver once for srightry higha price dan to buy terrible driver over and over again. Especiarry when terrible driver can mean disaster to the main rearry expensive diode component."
 
wannaburnstuff said:
Confucius say "It is better to buy quarity driver once for srightry higha price dan to buy terrible driver over and over again. Especiarry when terrible driver can mean disaster to the main rearry expensive diode component."
Click to expand...

MMMM....Ru r rite...Grass Hopper !!! NOT PC....BUT....PERFECT !!!:san:
 
honeyx said:
This driver will most likely kill the diode as it´s causing little spikes while turning on. These are ok for 445nm diodes as those can handle these spikes but not with the Mustubishi diodes. I´m talking from experience because such a driver killed a few for me.

You need a driver with a soft turn on. Yeah, it costs more but in the other hand where is the sense to buy a $50 diode and kill it with a cheap $5 driver?

So better spend a little more and order the diode together with a good driver directly from DTR.
Click to expand...

expensive? just buy a cap and attach it over the outputs...doesnt sound expensive to me
 
crazyspaz said:
expensive? just buy a cap and attach it over the outputs...doesnt sound expensive to me
Click to expand...
Where did I say something about expencive? Nowhere, Just the adding a cap at the outputs doesn´t work for these buck drivers. Been there and tried it already. The spikes where still there and the cap only changed the characteristics of the driver which caused even more noise.

The cap trick only works really good when linear drivers are used but not always with switching drivers. With these it can make things even worse. So rather than trying to get a cheap driver working somehow to not to kill a diode with caps or resistors, I prefer to spend a little bit more and get a good one where the diode will last for long.

You also do not buy a Ferrari and then are trying to make the engine work with alcohol because it´s cheaper than gasoline.
 
Last edited:
Naw man, It would be cheaper to buy from DTR cuase you dont have to pay two diffirent shippings
 
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