The "Ninja MK II" - 445nm Chrome Phaser

The Ninja MK II Phaser

I had some free time this week, so I've taken on a few new builds. This is one that I'm really excited about. It's a follow-up to my "Blue Ninja" build from almost a year ago (here: http://laserpointerforums.com/f65/blue-ninja-445nm-1-700mw-diy-creation-61067.html) This build may take the cake as the "tightest" build yet, even though it's certainly not the smallest. Almost every square mm of internal space is used in some way or another.





It's a similar concept with some upgrades (Photoshopped breakaway below). The diode is an M140, running at 1.6A. Current is regulated by a 1084 IC, thermal epoxied to the aluminum case. The momentary switch is substantially heavier-duty, and takes up a fair portion (25%?) of the host's internals. Two Lipo cells provide the necessary current. Both cells have protection cells, to help ensure that the phaser doesn't have a melt-down. This time I've added a full charging port instead of the alligator clip contact board approach of the original.



Perhaps most excitingly, this guy had his blue finish stripped, and went on a trip to the buffing wheel, as did the diode housing itself. I even lightly sanded the front of the M9x0.5 lens to make it match the shiny look and feel of the rest of the build. I oriented the diode such that the thin axis would be visible when looking down on the build from above (adds to personal satisfaction greatly IMO!).



The titles and logo are achieved using laser-printable foil labels, that by 90% sheer luck match the finish of polished aluminum to near perfection. That's not a camera trick. If you stare at this build, it's really difficult to identify that the foil printing isn't the exact same material as the rest of the host.

What I love most of all, is the tactile feel of this particular momentary clicky. It takes a fair amount of pressure to activate. So much so, that I'm actually relying on it resting on the inner bottom of this host, otherwise, I'm not sure I would trust the retaining nut alone to endure the pressure over time. The click gives both a great tactile feel, and a wonderful "click-click" mechanical sound when activated.



I'm pretty comfortable saying that this is my new favorite build

I want it.........................
Awesome man +1

Jim

This is UBER!

The switch looks like those used on guitar effects. They are intended to be switched by foot, so that's maybe why it's so tough.

Nice build !

I thought those Logos where etched in. Nice job.:beer:

Whats the power.?

Wow, this is a real beauty! Outstanding work!

Pretty little laser. Nice job.

Very nice build!! I like that handheld labby look. Great work!

Brilliant. But question - what's the mechanism that you used for the charging port? A switch to change it to parallel? Or did you just have another couple of heads to plug in and charge them in series?

That is beautiful:wave:! I like, a lot !

Wow, This laser just made me smile...Great Job
+1

Wolfman29 said:

Brilliant. But question - what's the mechanism that you used for the charging port? A switch to change it to parallel? Or did you just have another couple of heads to plug in and charge them in series?

Click to expand...

I kept them in series, and bought a 2P lithium ion charger. Eventually (once the parts arrive), I'll swap out that connector for a proper 2S balance charger plug. Just waiting on the balance charger itself, and the plus.

But - 2S (8.4V) chargers are pretty cool, as long as you recognize that it's not the best way to charge li-ions.

Simply astonishing man, I'd be even cooler if you got the writing etched in! If you like, I could do it at my machine shop.

Another thought, ever consider adding a pot for adjustable power? Of course, it would have to look just as cool as the push-button switch though

Hmm. Neat!

Thanks Joe / Wolfman!

Pot's for adjustable power are tricky with DDL-based linear drivers. A 3 or 5 selection switch would be quite doable. Though I would have had to sacrifice something else for the space, and that wasn't an option this time around. Maybe for the MK III.....

That's why I have been avoiding linear regulators as of late :\ I like having a driver that can do it all, and when that means switching out components every time I want to change power, I can't do that. I'm trying to work on a driver that is easily adjustable like switching converters but is linear and low-part-count like DDLs... trying to figure out a way to use a voltage bridge to change resistance :thinking: