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Old 02-24-2011, 03:42 AM #1
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Default The "Blue Ninja" - 445nm 1,700mW DIY Creation

Here goes - this may be a photo heavy thread.

After this build tonight, I need to hit the textbooks big-time. 25 page paper still in dire need of completion.

This was my crazy idea. Didn't know if it would work. Really glad that it did

First of all, the eye candy (in video format!):


And here it is tackling 3 balloons:


I guess I'll also start with a shot of the final product:


It started as an aluminum project box. I cut a hole for a switch, and for the laser housing. I don't have much of a tool selection, so I had to cut the holes by drilling successive holes with a cordless drill. It looks sloppy, but once assembled, you don't see any of the rough edges. Also, had to cut the heavy duty OdicForce housing down to fit.


Next, the batteries. I used 2x Lipo batteries that were originally sold as RC helicopter batteries. They're 3.7V and 200mAh. The benefit here - they're tiny, and they supply upwards of 3A current. Take that 18650s!

Also, you'll see a funky little piece of circuit board. Basically, I created contact points for the batteries that would be accessible once assembled. Need to be able to charge them again! Those tiny Lipos aren't going to provide much runtime So that rear end comes off, alligator clips go in, and we've got the ability to recharge!


Now for the driver... I wanted a lot of power. This is a momentary clicky build. Duty cycles are going to be like 2 seconds on, 30 seconds off. This is not a workhorse. This is a ninja.

I had the benefit of ~8V fully charged. I was going to do a triple-LM1117 build (I've been getting used to those) but there were two problems. Not enough space for all the resistors... and I didn't have any LM1117s left!

So, I planned to parallel two of the $1.99 DX LED drivers that have been played around with. Except that when I started testing, I realized that ONE of these drivers, hooked to the 2x LIPO batteries, provided ~2000 mA on a 6V test load. I didn't believe this at first, so I actually ran a test build with a real (though slightly damaged) 445nm diode that I was comfortable torturing.


If you can believe it, I actually had to add 0.6 Ohms of resistance in series with the diodes just to get the current DOWN to the 1710 mA seen here. This wasn't an idea way to limit the current, but I just didn't know what else to do. BTW, I'm not sure how I feel about those $1.99 DX drivers after all. I'm a little sketched out that supplying them from LIPOs resulted in SO MUCH more output current without any other modding.

But anyway, one single driver was enough. I used lots of thermal adhesive, and attached it to the aluminum just below/under the momentary switch.

What you're also seeing in the next photo are two sets of resistors (above the batteries, and below the switch). These are actually the resistors that are in series with the diode. By my math, I needed a 10W resistor. (1700mA x ~6V). So I had to fit 5x 2W resistors in parallel inside this host. Had to separate them into two locations (3 above the battery, two below the switch - but still wired in parallel as one resistor providing 0.6 Ohms)


The end plates are supposed to screw in - and the do. But in case I wanted to charge the laser during a period of frequent use, I decided that I wanted a way of attaching and detaching the rear plate without constantly unscrewing 4 screws. So - I recycled two of the rare-earth magnets you find in diode sleds (usually near the final lens assembly). I glued the magnets to the case, and put a magnetic washer on the rear face plate.


Here it is assembled, with it's rear face plate off.


And here it is activated.


I'll add that I'm not really sure what type of lens is meant for these housings. The thread is normal Aixiz lens thread, but the Aixiz lens had to disappear entirely inside of the heat-sink (had to tighten it with a screwdriver). The half threaded lenses just plane didn't work.

Anyway, this was an awesomely fun build. It's quite powerful. Surely this is not a laser meant for endurance, nor can I speculate as to how long this will actually serve me in working order before something melts-down inside the cramped case!

I love momentary push-button lasers, and this is just about my ideal creation I'm pretty happy with my creation, and I think I'll be able to tackle a 25 page paper with my brain constantly dreaming up something to distract me now!
Attached Thumbnails
The "Blue Ninja" - 445nm 1,700mW DIY Creation-01-start.jpg   The "Blue Ninja" - 445nm 1,700mW DIY Creation-02-batteries-.jpg   The "Blue Ninja" - 445nm 1,700mW DIY Creation-03-driver-dx.jpg   The "Blue Ninja" - 445nm 1,700mW DIY Creation-04-magnets.jpg   The "Blue Ninja" - 445nm 1,700mW DIY Creation-05-assembled.jpg  

The "Blue Ninja" - 445nm 1,700mW DIY Creation-06-activated.jpg   The "Blue Ninja" - 445nm 1,700mW DIY Creation-07-final-product.jpg   The "Blue Ninja" - 445nm 1,700mW DIY Creation-035-power-test.jpg  


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Old 02-24-2011, 04:13 AM #2
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Default Re: The "Blue Ninja" - 445nm DIY Creation

Very nice! Are those E-flight RC LiPo's?
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Old 02-24-2011, 04:35 AM #3
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Default Re: The "Blue Ninja" - 445nm DIY Creation

Not that I know of - they were just cheap lipos from ebay?
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Old 02-24-2011, 07:48 PM #4
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Default Re: The "Blue Ninja" - 445nm DIY Creation

Hahah very interesting dude. Consider putting a linear driver there
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Old 02-24-2011, 08:07 PM #5
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Default Re: The "Blue Ninja" - 445nm DIY Creation

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ray J Neal View Post
Very nice! Are those E-flight RC LiPo's?
I believe they are the tenergy Lipo's, which can be used with the eflite heli's. I got a 4 of them for my MSR and they are well priced.
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Old 02-24-2011, 08:20 PM #6
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Default Re: The "Blue Ninja" - 445nm DIY Creation

Heh nice build. Although a 200mAh is a very low capacitance for a 445 diode. How long do they last?

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Old 02-24-2011, 08:54 PM #7
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Default Re: The "Blue Ninja" - 445nm DIY Creation

Nice build I owe you +rep. But Awesome build
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Old 02-24-2011, 08:59 PM #8
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Default Re: The "Blue Ninja" - 445nm DIY Creation

Silvershot:
Keep in mind that I'm running this diode at 1700 mA, in half of a housing, minus any appreciable heatsinking - In other words, I'm not turning this on and leaving it that way for minutes at a time.

Anecdotally, I built this last night, and have enjoyed playing with it all day. It just want in to charge an hour ago, for the first time since building. However, 200mAh is probably 1/3 the capacity of a 16340, and there are plenty of single 16340 builds to use as reference.

I'm using this driver:
Cheap 1.2 amp driver running off 2x 3.0v lifepo4 cells that iam using.

My experiences on this build have actually led me to question this driver. No doubt it works well for me, but I don't really know WHAT type of driver to classify it as. I really don't like any label that declares it a constant current source. It clearly is NOT, because given the same supply voltage, the output current varried WIDELY depending on the current capabilities of the batteries. IE, 2x 18650s resulted in less output current than 2x Lipos, and more than 2x 16340s.

I understand that this makes sense (IE, if you attached 2 button cells to a driver, we'd expect less output current than 2 18650s). However, it DOES imply the the current limiting function of the driver is not actually supplied by this driver at all, but rather, by the capabilities of the cells themselves.

Which leaves me thinking.... "Isn't this driver more or less just like direct driving???"
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Old 02-24-2011, 09:02 PM #9
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Default Re: The "Blue Ninja" - 445nm DIY Creation

Quote:
Originally Posted by rhd View Post
Silvershot:
Keep in mind that I'm running this diode at 1700 mA, in half of a housing, minus any appreciable heatsinking - In other words, I'm not turning this on and leaving it that way for minutes at a time.
That module you are using (remembers me the O-like one) is very good at transfering heat. WAAY better than the aixiz one, without extra heatsinking.
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Old 02-24-2011, 09:13 PM #10
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Default Re: The "Blue Ninja" - 445nm DIY Creation

True - but we're still talking 1.7 A, and only half the housing is intact to boot. Plus, there's effectively no mass to transfer heat FROM the housing TO. Ie, those little heatsink air fins are it.

It's a fine setup for it's intended use case, but it's not a setup you turn on, and leave for 2 minutes at a time. Of course, that wasn't the intent anyway - it's only got a momentary switch
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Old 02-24-2011, 09:14 PM #11
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Default Re: The "Blue Ninja" - 445nm DIY Creation

One of the reviews call it a buck driver, it matches it's ability to reduce voltage and the picture with a small coil on the board.

It is intended for a LED with a lower forward voltage than a LD (App. 3.7V) and are not too stable there. It states 1A for a P4 emitter and 1.2A for a Q5.
It is no great surprise that such a cheap/simple circuit is not stabilised too well, the plus side is that it is not likely to change much with the same components.

rhd, I owe you a +1 for this.
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Old 02-24-2011, 09:20 PM #12
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Default Re: The "Blue Ninja" - 445nm DIY Creation

Well, we are talking about something with AT LEAST 4x better dissipation than aixiz.. anyways, I build a test LM317 based for a 445, @ 1A it got warm after ~1min. Look my albums and you can see the car battery and the laser lasing
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Old 02-24-2011, 09:21 PM #13
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Default Re: The "Blue Ninja" - 445nm DIY Creation

Thanks Toke
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Old 02-24-2011, 09:24 PM #14
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Default Re: The "Blue Ninja" - 445nm DIY Creation

Leo:
In theory - would it be any more difficult for an LM317 to deal with a car battery, than with, say, 3x 10440 batteries ?
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Old 02-24-2011, 09:25 PM #15
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Default Re: The "Blue Ninja" - 445nm DIY Creation

@rhd
if mean't the higher voltage.. hmm no. Easier to tell you the truth, as some 10440s would not withstand the 1A load and only supply around 600~700mA. The battery car was the only source of power I had
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Old 02-26-2011, 05:51 AM #16
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Default Re: The "Blue Ninja" - 445nm DIY Creation

those o-like modules really that much better at heat dissipation? I have my A140 running at 940mA and without any heatsink (Waiting on laserlands) gets hot enough to burn skin in 5-10 seconds! I did use AS5 on the threads of aixiz module and around the diode press hole...
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