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Old 03-14-2011, 03:17 AM #1
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Default Compact 1.5W Stainless Steel RL-118

Compact 1.5W Stainless Steel RL-118











Host








So in my never ending quest for some of the best made hosts I have come across another in the Ultrafire RL family of lights. This is the Stainless Steel RL-118 CR123A host. This unit is one of the most well constructed small pocket sized hosts I have seen yet. It has a wonderful finish and the metal stainless tail clicky is just completes this unit. Here are some shots of this unit for your viewing pleasure.

UPDATE
Jayrob has added these to his kit offerings. See his thread for details.
FS: Stainless Steel RL-118 Kit!
UPDATE



































Now I plan on driving this unit @ 1.5A with a flexdrive and since it is a CR123A host I needed to make sure that it could handle the current draw. Only one battery comes to mind. The AW IMR16340 which can handle an 8C discharge rate.






So the first thing I did when I got this host was to send it off to Jayrob to have a heatsink fitted. I wanted a direct press head with a small pocket on the backside for the driver and diode pins. I got it back and wasted no time to get it up and running.









Assembly Tutorial












Alright so this is a pretty simple build. It breaks down like this. You have the tailcap, direct press heatsink, head and body with the pill in it.








Jay did a great job on this heatsink. It fits with sitting on the pill but has this nice pocked on the back to give some room for the driver, wires and diode pins. And of course with the direct press for the diode it will have really good heat transfer from the diode into the heatsink. Jay can also make this heatsink in copper as well but I wanted to keep the aluminum look of the body with the heatsink.







The pill that is screwed into the body has a nice little area to sink the flexdrive already set up when you remove the LED. It has direct contact with the host body via the threads and provides great heat transfer from the driver to the host body. So the first thing we are going to do is remove the pill. It just comes out by unscrewing it from the host body.








Once you have it out we are gonging to take it apart to remove the old driver and set up new leads for the new driver. I like to remove and or bypass the old driver/board to remove any bottlenecks with the current. You just need a flat head screwdriver and work the ring out.








Once it is out I remove the driver board and contact plate. I will be keeping the contact plate. They can be popped out with a screwdriver. And just toss the driver.








Next I will take the contact board and I will drill a small hole in it so I am not relying on the traces on this board to carry 2A.









Now the hole should just be big enough for the wire to go through. Then we will put it aside for the moment and move on till we are ready for it again.








Next I am going to prepare a flexdrive. If you are going for the max setting it is pretty easy to solder the resistors. Just take a dab and touch it on the left most resistor and drag it over to the edge of the driver.









Then we are going to add leads. I like to strip my wires so that you can just barley see the wire when you run it up from the under side. Using the smallest amount of flux on the wires and feed them through. Then I just touch some solder to the hole with the wire in it and it draws the solder in for a very solid and clean connection..










Then I put my driver on my bench supply and test load. I set this driver to max which happened to be 1450mA on this driver. You will find the max on these will vary a tad from 1425mA-1550mA.









Next I took the pill and ground the surface the driver sits on down a little for a nice flat surface and fed the driver wires through the pill.









I applied the some thermal adhesive to the surface and used my helping hands to keep pressure on the driver while it dried. It will take about 15 minutes.









After it set I then trimmed the wires down to a perfect length so there is no excess wire in the pocket between the pill and the heatsink.












Now we will go back and get the contact board and I used a little krazy glue to keep it in place on ring that presses into the pill.









Next I feed the positive driver lead through the hole for direct contact with the battery's positive contact tab.









I put a little solder on it to hold it in place and make a small bump for batteries that don't have a raised Positive contact point. I also used my dremel to grind it smooth a little.










For the negative wire you just pinch it between the pill and the ring that presses in and use a pair of pliers or a vice to press it in.










And you are left with a nice clean pill with the driver all set up.








Now for pressing the diode into the heatsink.









But first I have been adding a little thermal grease to help to increase the thermal transfer.









I used a scrap piece of wire to just apply the smallest amount to the area that of contact between the diode and heatsink. Remember just a dab will do you.








I pressed the diode into the heatsink and got some heat shrink tubing out.










I pretin my wires and instead of touching the wire to the pins and heating them up together I first heat up the solder on the wire and then touch it to the pins and it makes a perfect solder joint.

Now that the leads are attached you just slide up your shrink tubing over the joint and heat it up.








Now I used a little of the thermal adhesive to keep the heatsink and the pill as one piece to avoid twisting up the pins. When it sets you have a module that is ready to go. That is pretty much it.









Screw the module into the host body.









Don't tighten it down to hard to avoid breaking the adhesive. The head will help make it as tight as possible.









Next put the head on.









Screw it down tight.







Throw in you battery.







Screw on the tailcap.







And the moment of truth is upon us. Click it on and whala. Let there be light.










Beam Shots



















And a great shot with a stand courtesy of Jetlasers and Hakzaw. Thanks guys.














LPM Test




I only have an Aixiz lens so I am sure it would do well over 1.5W with a G-1.










Conclusion







It is an absolutely amazing host and Jay did a great job on the heatsink. It will have short runtimes but for a pocket host it is a great unit.

Thanks for reading my review/tutorial if you would like to see more check out my compilation thread.
http://laserpointerforums.com/f51/dt...tml#post852148



Last edited by DTR; 12-05-2014 at 01:47 AM.
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Old 03-14-2011, 03:26 AM #2
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Default Re: Compact 1.5W Stainless Steel RL-188

Nice work, still one of my favorite hosts. My personal laser in that host
uses copper for the H/S, and fits nicely in the pocket. A bit heavy, not
that its a bad thing though..

The ones I was selling here.. same model SOLD 900mW 445 in unique host.
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Old 03-14-2011, 03:31 AM #3
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Default Re: Compact 1.5W Stainless Steel RL-188

The Man dose it again, now I'm sure he naver sleeps

Again a winner I love the stainless steel host they are tough and the
threads never give out no matter how many times you change the battery

1.5W in this size is over the top, way to go Jordan +2 for you man
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Old 03-14-2011, 03:31 AM #4
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Default Re: Compact 1.5W Stainless Steel RL-188

Oh! I've got a ? about the direct diode...

Does the diode press in just as tight as an aixiz module? I've been unable to get it that perfect of a fit. When I try to make them, it slides in very snug, but can still be pulled back out....
the amount that i would have to change it, i don't even think i could measure that minute of a change...
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Old 03-14-2011, 03:34 AM #5
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Default Re: Compact 1.5W Stainless Steel RL-188

It's another beauty!

With your usual custom touch on the build...

I'd like to make a kit out of that nice RL-188 Stainless Steel host, but it's kind of expensive to stock it. Maybe a couple at a time or something...

But fitting the heatsink requires having the host 'in hand'. Because the head screws down and holds it to the top of the pill, and if it's not perfect, then there will be a little gap where the head meats the host. So it's probably a tolerance of only 3 or 4 thousandths...

Great job with the FlexDrive mount!

Personally, I'd set the current a little lower to have more run time between charges. But I'm sure you will get 15 or 20 minutes...
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Old 03-14-2011, 03:43 AM #6
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Default Re: Compact 1.5W Stainless Steel RL-188

That is absolutely fabulous wow!!
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Old 03-14-2011, 03:57 AM #7
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Default Re: Compact 1.5W Stainless Steel RL-188

Wow,
Really nice looking laser. I love it.

So much power, in such little size.


I have a question. What type of Solder do you use?
I can solder, but I am still learning how to solder good . I soldered my 445nm, and I was nervous as crap.
You said that you heat the solder up on the wire first and then quickly touch the leads on the diode. I tried to do that so many times, but my Solder is like instant, the second the iron is off of it...... its dry.
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Old 03-14-2011, 04:18 AM #8
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Default Re: Compact 1.5W Stainless Steel RL-188

@ hxdrummerxc-> keep the iron touching the tinned wire until contact with the diode pins. That way, the solder on the wire (which takes longer to liquify than the solder on the diode pins) is already melted. Then, touch the wire/iron to the pin and there is only a second of heat on the diode. Once the solder on the tinned pin is melted and the pin/wire are joined, pull the iron off and let the solder harden. The solder will harden too quickly if you do not maintain heat, as you have found out. Hope that helps
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615mw 405nm/12X Spiderfire X-03
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1530mw 445nm Yobresal
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900mw 635nm in Temporary Finned Labby Sink
Several 635nm diodes awaiting a build
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Kenometer w/ Coherent Thermopile 10W
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Old 03-14-2011, 04:21 AM #9
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Default Re: Compact 1.5W Stainless Steel RL-188

Freakin awesome looking build by the way, DTR. I love it!! Great things come in small packages
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615mw 405nm/12X Spiderfire X-03
148mw 405nm/GGW in my "Hotlight-Saber" host
1920mw 445nm River Rock custom
1530mw 445nm Yobresal
1360mw 445nm Qumefox Sipik
800mw 445nm WL Arctic Spyder S3
240mw 473nm CNI Labby
8mw 473nm CNI Labby
528mw 532nm Lazerer Cannon
310mw 532nm Firedragon III
300mw 532nm CNI Labby
180mw 532nm SKY Laser
4x 147-267mw 532nm Waterproof
900mw 635nm in Temporary Finned Labby Sink
Several 635nm diodes awaiting a build
500mw 650nm Dual LPC-826 Labby
251mw 650nm/LPC-815 Ultrafire U-501B
Several 685nm diodes awaiting a build
3W 808nm diode awaiting build

Kenometer w/ Coherent Thermopile 10W
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Old 03-14-2011, 04:27 AM #10
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Default Re: Compact 1.5W Stainless Steel RL-188

Quote:
Originally Posted by rocket689 View Post
@ hxdrummerxc-> keep the iron touching the tinned wire until contact with the diode pins. That way, the solder on the wire (which takes longer to liquify than the solder on the diode pins) is already melted. Then, touch the wire/iron to the pin and there is only a second of heat on the diode. Once the solder on the tinned pin is melted and the pin/wire are joined, pull the iron off and let the solder harden. The solder will harden too quickly if you do not maintain heat, as you have found out. Hope that helps
Thanks for the tip,
Should give some added assurance next time.
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Old 03-14-2011, 04:27 AM #11
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Default Re: Compact 1.5W Stainless Steel RL-188

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mohrenberg View Post
Oh! I've got a ? about the direct diode...

Does the diode press in just as tight as an aixiz module? I've been unable to get it that perfect of a fit. When I try to make them, it slides in very snug, but can still be pulled back out....
the amount that i would have to change it, i don't even think i could measure that minute of a change...



I agree....I have tried as well. The diode is too tight at first , then bore a hair more out, and the press fit is too loose. 5.6mm is a tight space to work in. Any helpful pointers, Jayrob? A custom sized counterbore perhaps???
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Would you like to purchase some M-140 445nm diodes (individual or pressed into Aixiz or pure copper module) at very reasonable prices? PM me if you are interested!

My laser list has become way too big; I'm listing some of my favorites out of my extensive collection.
615mw 405nm/12X Spiderfire X-03
148mw 405nm/GGW in my "Hotlight-Saber" host
1920mw 445nm River Rock custom
1530mw 445nm Yobresal
1360mw 445nm Qumefox Sipik
800mw 445nm WL Arctic Spyder S3
240mw 473nm CNI Labby
8mw 473nm CNI Labby
528mw 532nm Lazerer Cannon
310mw 532nm Firedragon III
300mw 532nm CNI Labby
180mw 532nm SKY Laser
4x 147-267mw 532nm Waterproof
900mw 635nm in Temporary Finned Labby Sink
Several 635nm diodes awaiting a build
500mw 650nm Dual LPC-826 Labby
251mw 650nm/LPC-815 Ultrafire U-501B
Several 685nm diodes awaiting a build
3W 808nm diode awaiting build

Kenometer w/ Coherent Thermopile 10W
LaserBee 2.5W USB LPM
Radiant Alpha 2W LPMSOLD=Now in Kuwait!
1.2W RGB Projector; JNM Wide Sky Galvos (Made in Germany); Laser Show Express; Arduino-based DAC
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Old 03-14-2011, 04:41 AM #12
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Default Re: Compact 1.5W Stainless Steel RL-188

Your pics make it LOOK so EZ a caveman....well you know. +rep
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Old 03-14-2011, 05:04 AM #13
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Default Re: Compact 1.5W Stainless Steel RL-188

Wow nice. I might look into getting one of these host. You always amaze me DTR
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Old 03-14-2011, 05:46 AM #14
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Default Re: Compact 1.5W Stainless Steel RL-188

Quote:
Originally Posted by rocket689 View Post
I agree....I have tried as well. The diode is too tight at first , then bore a hair more out, and the press fit is too loose. 5.6mm is a tight space to work in. Any helpful pointers, Jayrob? A custom sized counterbore perhaps???
It's such a tight tolerance. There cannot be the slightest wobble. So always start with a nice centering bit...
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Old 03-14-2011, 05:56 AM #15
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Default Re: Compact 1.5W Stainless Steel RL-188

Thanks Jayrob I will have to try that method.
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Old 03-14-2011, 06:33 AM #16
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Default Re: Compact 1.5W Stainless Steel RL-188

Wow man thats nice btw do you have any a140 diodes for sale?

+1 dahhhhhh
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