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Old 09-21-2010, 09:16 PM #1
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Default Compilation Of Information (First Major Build)

Forewarning:
Lasers exceeding 5mW are to be taken very seriously. They are able to cause instant, permanent damage to you eyes. I strongly urge you to purchase laser goggles that block the corresponding wavelength of the laser you are making.

Pre-Reading:
The Laser Diode:
The laser diode is the main component of a handheld laser. The laser diode is commonly abbreviated as "LD." It is a highly sensitive device that can be blown with something as little as an electric static discharge. These must be handled with the utmost care. Most diodes used in handhelds are the 5.6mm variety. When talking or referring to diodes, it is highly advised to refer to the pins on the diode whereas the middle pin is on the right side. If my words are not depicting a clean enough picture, you can refer to the diagram below as the standard layout.

445nm and 405nm Diodes:

This pin arrangement is the most common arrangement in most Blu-ray or 405nm laser diodes as well as in the XJ-A130 and XJ-A140 445nm Diodes.



Red Diodes:

This is not however the case for red diodes. Red diodes have a more random pin layout. Some have the top pin as positive, the middle as negative and case, and the bottom not used like so:



Other Diodes:

On some certain diodes I purchased on eBay, the top was negative and the bottom was positive and the middle was a case pin. As you can see, with the reds, the pin layout is somewhat random.

The current is regulated through the driver which is directly connected to the driver. They are fit in into modules, usually by being pressed together in a vise.

The Laser Module:

The module. This is the house that your laser lives in from the beginning to the very end of its life. A diode is able to be pressed into the module in one piece but removing it in one, working piece is near impossible. The standard module is the Aixiz module, costing about $5 each for the blanks. With the blanks, are an acrylic lens which is adequate up to ~200mW. This is what a complete blank module looks like from the top with all the parts together.






Below this text is all the module parts laid out in the order they go together.


The back part is the biggest. It is what the driver sits in. It has a small hole in the back that the wires from the driver can come out of. It is also commonly used to press a diode into the front of the module with. This is done by setting the diode into the back of the front piece of the module, then using the back of the back piece of the module to press against the diode. Then you squish the three pieces into the vise and twist, making sure that the diode isn't going in crooked. This is very important. There is however, a few flaws with pressing a diode this way. First, the diode is supposed to be seated past flush the back in order to be "Properly Seated." Also, the material that the module is made out of bends easily. I always tend to find the back of my modules slightly caved in after pressing. This is, however, the only way I know how to press a diode without a tool.




When grinding the end off one of them, I found myself with what looked like brass shavings. What the exact material they are made out of, I am unsure. I have also found that the metal focusing ring does not stick to the plastic sides of the lens and when changing the focus, the lens has a habit of twisting into the front of the module but not back out with the ring. This can be prevented with some teflon tape or some glue along the threads of the lens before twisting into the front.

The Driver:

The driver is what keeps the power between your battery and diode stable. Without a driver, the power is unstable and can and most likely will blow your diode. Think of an imaginary tank full of fluid high up (Battery), and its flowing down through a hose. What the driver is, is a fancy clamp that controls how much water comes out after the clamp. This analogy isn't perfect but it's easy to think of that way. These drivers can run from cheap around $2.50 to $25. There are also different kinds with different features, like a car, or something you can get customized. Some can boost the voltage so you are able to use cheaper batteries or smaller batteries for smaller designs. Some can do something called "Bucking" which is reducing voltage if there is too many volts. Others have things called TTL switches, although I can not say what they do. That is, of course, not saying it doesn't do something. It is not necessary to use any form of TTL or modulation.

You can, also make your own. Here is a link that may also be very helpful on the configuration of your driver:
Laser driver - It can be done

The Host:

The host is the major housing of the laser, as well as the batteries. There is almost always a pill where the driver sits and, unless its a pen or very small host, a heatsink. The driver connects to parts of the pill.



Last edited by Toaster; 12-10-2010 at 09:38 PM.
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Old 09-21-2010, 09:16 PM #2
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Default (Continued)

Part List:

Resistors:
Part Type: 1/2 Watt, 1 Ohm Resistor
Pieces: 10
Supplied by: Lasersbee (Jerry)
Price: $1.50 Shipped to the United States
Link


Battery Charger:
Part Type: WF-139
Pieces: 1
Supplied by: Light Hound
Price: ~$18
Link


Battery:
Part Type: AW Protected 18650
Pieces: 1
Supplied by: Light Hound
Price: ~$16
Link


Laser Diode:
Part Type: XJ-A140 445nm Laser Diode
Pieces: 1
Supplied by: Pontiacg5
Price: $42.50 Shipped to the United States
Link


Driver:
Part Type: Micro BoostDrive V1 Driver
Pieces: 1
Supplied by: Dr. Lava
Price: $26.00 Shipped to the United States
Link


Host and Lens:
Part Type: Stainless Steel 18650 Kit with 445nm Glass Lens and Copper Heatsink
Pieces: 1
Supplied by: Jayrob
Price: $87.00 Shipped to the United States
PM Jayrob for Availability



End Goal:


I take no credit for the pictures.

Last edited by Toaster; 11-20-2010 at 08:16 PM.
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Old 09-21-2010, 09:17 PM #3
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Default (Continued)

REALLY Bad Quality, Going to upload on Youtube.

Video Series:

Testing Driver: yfrog.com/mymovieon20101101atz

Prepping: yfrog.com/86movieon20101101atz

Pressing: yfrog.com/ndmovieon20101101atz

Pin Soldering: yfrog.com/eqmovieon20101101atz

Heat Tubing and Heatsink: yfrog.com/bcmovieon20101101atz

Driver Connection (I did short but I forgot to show): yfrog.com/6zmovieon20101101atz

Final Head Assembly and Start up: yfrog.com/n9movieon20101101atz

Last edited by Toaster; 12-10-2010 at 09:55 PM.
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Old 09-21-2010, 09:28 PM #4
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Default Re: WIP Complete Laser Creation Tutorial

Ah nice. This will be helpful to users when it's finished. I had always wanted to do a complete tutorials start to finish for making a laser...
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Old 09-21-2010, 09:31 PM #5
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Default Re: WIP Complete Laser Creation Tutorial

Yeah, I plan on video documenting the creation. As well as asking questions myself along the way.
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Old 09-21-2010, 09:34 PM #6
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Default Re: WIP Complete Laser Creation Tutorial

What's the wattage of those resistors? If your going to try to do a 1A build you might want to get some that are a little beefier, those look like 1/8 or 1/4W resistors.

The test load will heat that resistor (and the diodes) up incredibly fast if they are too small.
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Old 09-21-2010, 09:36 PM #7
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Default Re: WIP Complete Laser Creation Tutorial

It says WIP, please only critique what is there, not what isn't.
Thank you
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Old 09-21-2010, 09:48 PM #8
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Default Re: WIP Complete Laser Creation Tutorial

0.707A max.
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Old 09-21-2010, 09:57 PM #9
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Default Re: WIP Complete Laser Creation Tutorial

What are you talking about?
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Old 09-21-2010, 10:00 PM #10
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Default Re: WIP Complete Laser Creation Tutorial

I'm saying those resistors you plan to use for your test load will likely fail if you try to run 1A of current through them. They are way too small.
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Old 09-21-2010, 10:00 PM #11
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Default Re: WIP Complete Laser Creation Tutorial

Quote:
Originally Posted by Pontiacg5 View Post
What's the wattage of those resistors? If your going to try to do a 1A build you might want to get some that are a little beefier, those look like 1/8 or 1/4W resistors.

The test load will heat that resistor (and the diodes) up incredibly fast if they are too small.
Those are 1/2 watt resistors....

Rather than telling him the resistors can not be used... it may
help to give him other suggestions.... like...

They have been offered Free to the LPF community members
since July 2009.... way before the 1 Watt 445nm LDs showed
their face...
There are 10 of them and can be Series Paralleled to give you
2pc of 1 Ohm @ 1Watt resistor or 1 pc of 0.1 Ohm @ 5 Watt
resistor.

BTW... as a test load I would also be using the 1N540X 3 Amp
type Rectifier Diodes...


Jerry
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Last edited by lasersbee; 09-26-2010 at 03:04 PM. Reason: spelling errors
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Old 09-21-2010, 10:01 PM #12
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Default Re: WIP Complete Laser Creation Tutorial

Wait, If I run two in parallel, wont it be one watt?
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Old 09-21-2010, 10:05 PM #13
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Default Re: WIP Complete Laser Creation Tutorial

Quote:
Originally Posted by Toaster View Post
Wait, If I run two in parallel, wont it be one watt?
Yeah.... at 0.5 Ohms not 1 Ohm...
That's why it takes 4 resistors...
2 in parallel two times... and those to sets in
series to get you 1.0 Ohms @ 1 Watt...

And you can make 2 sets like that with the 10 resistors...
hence the 2pc of 1 Ohm @ 1Watt resistor stated above...


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Last edited by lasersbee; 09-21-2010 at 10:09 PM.
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Old 09-21-2010, 10:42 PM #14
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Default Re: WIP Complete Laser Creation Tutorial

Like This right?

------|
-----/-\
----I---I
----|---|
----I---I
------Y
------|

Like that right? I being the resistors?

Also, Are 4001 diodes adequate? Or will they blow too?

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Old 09-22-2010, 03:39 AM #15
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Default Re: WIP Complete Laser Creation Tutorial

Quote:
Originally Posted by lasersbee View Post
Those are 1/2 watt resistors....

Rather than telling him the resistors can not be used... it may
help to give him other sugestuons.... like...

They have been offered Free to the LPF community members
since July 2009.... way before the 1 Watt 445nm LDs showed
their face...
There are 10 of them and can be Series Paralleled to give you
2pc of 1 Ohm @ 1Watt resistor or 1 pc of 0.1 Ohm @ 5 Watt
resistor.

BTW... as a test load I would also be using the 1N540X 3 Amp
type Rectifier Diodes...


Jerry
Here is the diagram of the dummy loads I am building. Should have some for sale this weekend. Hope it helps...

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Last edited by jmgallego; 09-22-2010 at 11:09 PM.
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Old 09-22-2010, 03:50 AM #16
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Default Re: WIP Complete Laser Creation Tutorial

Uhm Hey yeah, Thanks for the pic. I Know how to make a test load but I was wondering if the 4001's are safe for 1 amp.

Edit: Oh I seen that up there about the 1N540X diodes, Now I am sorry to ask, but I forgot, what is the difference with the different X values?

Never mind, I got my answer here http://www.kpsec.freeuk.com/components/diode.htm

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