Hello.

Thank you for the explanation. At the moment I will prove the module of 635nm like it is; because I am not able to correct the divergence, to see if later on...

I have some doubts it has more than enough connections of the Show Card to implement the blue module of 445nm; I am not sure of as putting the jumpers correctly.






And the second, what configuration Address Code interface, I have to select for connect the IShow LaserShow.




Show Card instructions:

http://www.te-lighting.com/eng/suppo...how%20card.pdf



Best regards.

Juanma.

Support DIY for dicros.




Juanma.

That's pretty cool. Good job.


Michael

very interesting mounts-- new style to me.. did you make these or buy them..?

Hello.

Yes, I made it me with stainless steel.

Hi-Fi - Proyector láser RGB








Best Regards.
Juanma.

WOW!!

you have talent and Skillz.. ...very nice job on those and TY for sharing the drawings.

+ 2 for all that!!

belated welcome from TEXAS!!

Nice work! those dichroic mounts are seriously cool.

*sniff* another who has a working projector and has beaten me to getting the magic moving photons.

Then again I am aiming pretty high with a multiwatt setup to begin with (and pangolin quickshow!)

You create some very nice diagrams of your stuff, what software do you use?

Hello.

I use the most economic software. IShow LaserShow.

For my budget, I cannot allow myself Pangolin (I would like a lot of east software, since everybody speaks very well of him).











Best Regards.
Juanma.

All I can say Juanma, is; WOW thats one incredibly neat and tidy setup. And your beam photography skills is great too! Well done! Are your lasers analogue or TTL?

Thank you vk2fro.

They are modules economic TTL; if later on I can allow, I would like to mount a projector with better components and that these are analogical.

I have surprised myself with this projector. I didn't have idea of as beginning, of the necessary thing for it, single desires of to learn and to build it.
Everything has been thanks to your help.






Best Regards.
Juanma.

I like how you have mounted the lasers on threaded rod "stilts" to raise them up to the proper height. If you do get bigger lasers, you may need to switch to shims so the heat load of the bigger lasers is dissipated. With these small lasers though, the heat load should be effectivly dissipated through the body of the laser.

When you do decide to upgrade to analog lasers, you'll need to ditch the ishow, as it only does TTL. I should have my Quickshow in a month of so, so I'd like to help out with this. I've got a framestreamer express currently. Its analogue, has size controls on the box, and works with quite a few laser show softwares, including Norms Laser Show, LSX (Dr Lava), Pasta (Gary), and a few others. (When mentioning pasta, think of the long thin type you have with bolognaise. Type that into google along with laser show and you'll find it. Due to a small war between users about it, the softwares true name is censored here). You can also find its true name on Dans laser projector faq. Back to the frame streamer, your welcome to have it for the cost of postage.

Thats a REALLY neat build, and looks like you can just about drop it into an enclosure (on more threaded rod stilts) and put the power supplies underneath. Thats how my design is going, optics & lasers on a raised platform, power supplies underneath.

Yes, that you speaks.

In fact, Gary has given me a license of his software, so that it uses it with the hardware of Ishow. I he am very grateful hence and I think that it is a brilliant type with desires of helping those that begin in this liking.
I am very new and beginner, but I am willing to help in what is in my hand.

My great problem is the language and I am not sure that they understand all that I write and as I want to transmit it.: Indecisos:



Best Regards.
Juanma.

Very impressive. Thanks for sharing!

This whole thread is really impressive, the progress you've made from knowing almost nothing at the start to assembling that projector was astounding. I really like the designs of your optical mounts as well, they look very well made. Looking forward to more pictures of this as it progresses

Thank you for their words.

I try to learn soon, although I have many problems with the understanding of their language and I suppose that my explanations will be confused for you.
For that reason I ask for forgiveness for my expression with their language.

I show them drawing for the box of the projector.

I want to put two fans of refrigeration of 80mm of diameter; one that introduces the air and another that expels him.
The Power Supply screwed to the interior part of the superior cover.
The connections in the back part.
And in the leading, the micro with the regulator.


Doubts that I have... to put some glass in the window of the projector?
Is to window of 50mm of diameter valid?





If there are errors, or they come better solution, please say.


Best Regards.
Juanma.

I'm not sure what other people think, but I've thought that it'd be a good idea to have the projector pretty much sealed from the environment, and then have semi-external mechanisms to cool the base-plate and such. I'm not sure if that's commonplace though.

For your window, you can try using a 52mm or 58mm UV camera filter. Many are multicoated for enhanced light transmission.

Hello friend.
Very grateful for so many times that your you have helped me.

Please, where I can find the 52mm or 58mm UV camera filter?
Is it correct that these they can enlarge the transmission of the light?



Best Regards.
Juanma.

No problem! You've made good progress on your build. It's great seeing your projector come together.

You can get the UV filters at virtually any camera shop. Her'e's an example on Amazon.com. You'll probably want a multi-coated filter because they'll reduce the amount of reflections (i.e. losses).

Other types of glass you can try: glass from photocopier or scanner beds. Flashlight glass (like this).

Thank you.

I will buy one for the box of the projector.


Best Regards.
Juanma.

Hello friends.


When using preinstalled graphics of Show Card (without using DAC Ishow)... everything reproduces correctly, color, fixed image and in movement.

This is the card:

http://www.djslighting.com/eng/supports/specifi/show% 20card.pdf


These the galvos:

http://www.djslighting.com/eng/supports/specifi/30K% 20Scanners.pdf


And this ISHOW:

http://www.amonstar.com/template/fil...nstruction.pdf



When I use Ishow (DAC and it programs) and software wet noodles with DAC Ishow; all the images notice they deform and they blink (modules laser, light and they fade, I believe that too slow), this makes him to be noticed and bother the twinkling a lot.
The images in movement are not deformed, but all blink as the fixed ones.
I think that it was problem of galvos speed... but now I do believe that the scanner speed is correct and that where it lacks speed? it is in the modulation of the three colors (RGB). This makes that the image in an intermittent way is represented.
For that reason I believe that it is problem of DAC Ishow.



Best Regards.

Juanma.

If your galvos are too slow for the image they'll either need to render the image at a slower rater--which can have a lower refresh rate (possibly flickering), or there will be deformations in the image. Something you can try is to reduce the scan angle used by your galvos so that they do not need to travel as much to reproduce the image, and therefore will render things faster.

Depends like BB said, on how fast your galvos are. You can ruin them by scanning them too fast. Also TTL lasers will introduce a little more flicker as some frames may have colours that are borderline signals to your lasers, thus causing them to flick on and off. a very dark green for example may cause this, as the green laser needs to be at a low power to produce the colour.

If the software has the options, I'd be checking to see if you have picked "TTL" as the laser type.

If your galvos are rated to 20kpps, keep the scan speed below this. If they're rated at 25Kpps, 35Kpps max, you can scan at 35kpps, but only with a small angle.

Either way if they start making horrible noises you're scanning them too fast. Back off the angle or scan speed, or you'll ruin them.

Cheers
Ben

Hello.

I don't in fact believe that it is problem of speed in galvos, they are of 30Kpps (max. 45000) and the graphics preinstalled in the Show Card, they reproduce correctly.

The problem is when I connect DAC Ishow, to the reprocucir Ishow or software of Gary, although it is a simple graph, the galvos they work without too much noise, I have even closed the angle to prove; but the problem is of ignition and out of the modules laser (modulation).
They blink slow and this makes that the light d the graph fluid is not shown. I have gone up the escaneo to the maximum 60000 and I have proven in modulation TTL and analogue, but the problem persists.

Onlooker is that I don't find difference between analogue and TTL, the graphics and colors show up exactly same. Trying to photograph a graph, it is impossible to capture him complete, always lack some line (color), due to the drop modulation speed.
I have attempted with fixed graphics and in movement, even the adjustment pattern ILDA is not represented correctly, the always blinks.

I ask, to know if some partner uses Ishow and he has the same problem with DAC, to be able to go discarding things; if later on I can acquire a better DAC I want to make sure that it will work correctly and that it is not problem of any other device.



Best Regards.

Juanma.

I've read that iShow is pretty terrible, and the symptoms you're describing seem to match the descriptions of it. It may be worth your time to buy something proven like Flashback 3 + Quickshow, especially since you have a decent hardware setup already.

A less expensive option is to use a Soundcard DAC. There's a sticky in this forum that describes how to wire them up. I've made one; however, some people have had driver issues with them.